so that's a new relay?
is it exactly the same as the original?
No it's the original relays. All I did last time was fixed the dry joints put it back together and it's been working since last december. I think I did clean that contact with some sand paper then also.
This time I am going to order new relays though since I seen it was stuck. I actually pulled the relay apart when I removed the back.
Trying to decide If I want to go ahead and replace those caps.
Nichicon says the PR is replaced with PS. Pr is a standard for switching with a impedance of .053 with 1100 ripple. PS is a low impedance for switching .058 with a 1600 ripple. Would the FM's be better for the PR? I see one FM says general and one FM says low impedance which seems odd. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...6hqa%252bt0%3d
Well I save a buck buying from newark and closer so would get it sooner but would have to use a FC vs PS(PR replacement) and find a replacement for the KL. Mouser has them so will probably just order from there.
PS and PW will both do fine, as will Panasonic FC. In fact, I think Panny FC is rated for automotive applications, so they'll be okay with all the heat. Not that FR or FM are any worse, but they are getting close to ultra-low ESR and have aqueous electrolyte, IIRC. Meanwhile, PW, PS, and FC have the older non-aquous electrolyte that's proven to last over the years in harsh conditions.
The newark PW sale I was just letting you guys know about since yall have helped me a bunch. I figured since some of you do this for a living you could stock up cheap.
Sorry I meant PR not FR. I don't know this stuff like you guys and I get confused with all the series. lol Will probably just order from mouser since they have PS and kl in stock and the PS closer on impedance. Shame the 2 surge brand caps don't have any info on type.
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