so it doesnt have a thermostatic switch, just a teperature disply/timer?
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Sorry for the delay in response. I've attached two images showing each side. I'm not sure what a 'triac' is, I was hoping for it to be a simple resistor replacement lol, guess I'll have to weigh up trying to fix or whether it's best to scrap it. I'll have a look for some shorts, but in regards to the chip, if the chip can't be identified then I won't know what value to measure at the pin(s), therefor it would make it near impossible to repair, no?
Haha, technically I posted on eevblog first before coming over here, but I like to post of both due to different members, hopefully get a larger response to questions.
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OP is two timin' he went to that other forum https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginn...smd-resistors/
good luck with the dorksLeave a comment:
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picture of the other side?
i dont see a triac or other switching device - maybe it's the chip you mentioned.
also cant overlook a short in the cable to the blanket
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The track they're on is connected to an unknown IC & leads to the main input for the throw-blanket. The only other cap I see is linked to R14 resistor but the capacitor has no value written on it. The blanket/controller that's good is still under warranty & desoldering the cap to check value I can't do. Can these caps be checked in circuit?
Unsure. Was just sitting there & poof. No lightning, no known electricity spikes. Surprisingly I found a review on Amazon with the same controller & the same issue https://www.amazon.co.uk/Homefront-E.../dp/B001IRYFJG. Could it be a design fault?
No power, no LED. I'll have to plug it in and take some reading maybe.Leave a comment:
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Resistors never fail and burn up of their own accord. Something happened to overload them.
If it was a mains transient, lightning that arced over them, then whatever is downstream next is surely dead. They seem to go from control button (or whatever blanket 3rd pin is for) to R14 to MCU... that is surely toast.
Does it power up? LED display on?Leave a comment:
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first you need to find out what has shorted to make them burn.
start by checking diodes and ceramic caps
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Blown heated blanker controller. Trying to figure out these smd resistors
Hello,
We have one of those heated throw blankets you plug into AC power. The other day it went *bzzzbzzzbbzz... pop*, so I opened it up to find what appears to be two resistors gone *poof*. (R7 & R14 in picture)
luckily, we have a second blanker with what appears to be identical controller, so I opened it up to take a picture
According to the good controller PCB, R7 = 9531, & R14 = 103
Online SMD resistor calculator says
R7 - 9531 = 95.3kohm
R14 - 103 = 10kohm
Is this correct? Would all I need is a 10k ohm & a 9.53k ohm? I had a google but there seems to be many types with many with different tolerances. Any suggestions on which ones I should choose?Attached Files -
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This is a Data Recovery case from Lenovo Yoga 330 11IGM onboard eMMC Sandisk 128GB
Seems like the device had a power surge. Blown U6002 and went and cracked the die of the KBD controller. I detached the JP6003/4 tracks around U6002 but short still appears around the kbd controller (i believe)
I havent had a case to replace and reprogram KBD controllers before. How can I get the dump and what tool do I need to use. Is there a process written somewhere? Thanks in advance.
Let me know if you know any jigs which can recognise these sandisk chips. I wont mind...01-01-2024, 10:15 PM -
Hello,
My friend asked me to replace the wire going from this SMPS 20v adapter to the charger for a 18v Lithium Battery for a drill.
The cable had frayed and been touching, as a result the 5 Paralleled R200 (0.2 ohm) resistors had blown O/C, they are connecting the main -ve rail to the output wire.
The output was jumping around 13v and dis-appeared when a load like the charger was connected, they measured 900ohms.
I experimented by replacing at first a single 0 ohm and then a 2.2ohm in and the output was restored at 21.62v and 21.65v respectively... -
I have an ASUS ROG Strix- G513IH-HN008, motherboard G513-6050A3249301- MB-A04 (A4)
When I received the device, the device has no function. After an investigation, I found that the PWM CONTROLLER RT6575B (U6100) is getting warm and there is a short circuit at the 3V3 output. This normally supplies 3V3 for the embedded controller IT5571E-128 (U301). When measuring and analyzing with a thermal imaging camera, I found that some components are damaged: SLG4E42553VTR (U8500), IT5571E-128 (U301), LAN RTL8111H (U450), LOGIC 74LVC1G08GW (U1900), RT6575B (U6100) All these components are on... -
Hey everyone,
I'm currently working on a mid-70s Sharp Electronic Digital Clock Radio, Model FY-70CH. I found the service manual online, printed it out, and have been studying it for a while. My main reasons for tackling this are: (1) I want to learn electronics and figured I'd start with something I had on hand, and (2) I want to fix its issues. Right now, the radio sounds awful, has about 5V DC at the speaker terminals, and the alarm time setting doesn't work. But I'm not asking how to fix these problems.
Instead, here's what's been bugging me so far:
The schematic... -
I got a High Power HP1-J600GD-F12S on the bench today that was killed by roaches judging by the dead roaches and large brown spots in the housing next to said roaches.
I was able to identify all the blown smd resistors on the board aside from the one located at R69. I wasn't able to figure out what any of the marking on the resistor was supposed to be and with how little of the marking was left I wasn't able to really make any guesses about what it could be from the surrounding components. It is connected to pin 1 of Q11 (4N65SFA1K) which looks like it is the gate .In the sample...
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