redbaron1007
Senior Member
Last Activity: Yesterday, 10:23 AM
Joined: 06-13-2021
Location: Greenville, North Carolina
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Bios worked great thank you.... -
Here is the bios file. Disregard the LW at the end of the file name that's just for organization on my end....Leave a comment:
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A friend gave me his old Cent-Tech P37772 multimeter the other day because it wasn't working in continuity/diode mode anymore. I asked him if he had tried a new battery and he had, but it was some no name one that came with some guitar gear he had bought recently. I took it home and tried it out and nothing was working right. The diode reading was jumping all over the place and the voltage readings were off. If I checked a AA battery it would read 5V and if I hooked it to my bench power supply it would read consistently 5v higher than what I had it set to. Cleaned the contacts on the dial and...
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I'm looking for a bios for an E5570. I'm suspecting the one on the board I have is the reason it isn't booting.
Board ADP80 LA-C841P
I don't have a serial number for the laptop the tag on the back with it is missing. All I have is the model E5570 and P48f001.Leave a comment:
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I would scrape back the solder mask on the board where the trace used to go with an xacto/hobby knife. Tin the exposed copper on the pcb and put the cap on sideways sliding it into the solder you just put onto the board. Then solder the other end onto the pad. It doesn't have to be straight or perfect it just has to make a connection and the area next to the cap looks like it's connected to where the pad used to go.
I tried my best to mark up your photo to explain what I mean, but an artist I am not....Leave a comment:
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I got the TMI3253 I ordered from LCSC today and popped one into the main board and it fired right up without any issues. Thanks for all the help finding the correct chip.
I would love to know what actually killed it in the first place, but I'm just going to have to assume low quality display circuitry failing prematurely or bad luck of the draw for that part in general.Leave a comment:
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I had some confusion at first because the first datasheet I found was for the TMI3253SH which has a different pinout, but I managed to find one for the TMI3253/S/T and that one has the same pinout as your attached image. I think it's the right one for the job, but I won't know for certain until I get the ones I ordered from aliexpress in and can install them.
What really sucks is I swear I have a spare board for this monitor somewhere in all my parts boards that has the part I need on it I just can't locate it.
I do appreciate the help and I'll try to remember to report...Leave a comment:
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Crua CR270C shorted input.
I've got a Crua CR270C that had a short to ground on the input jack. The input was rated at 12v 4A center pin positive. When I took the board out and powered it with my bench power supply it jumped to 3v and 4A CC and a chip labeled either TM3db2 or TV3db2. I'm not able to find anything online typing in those strings of letters and numbers and searching websites like s-manuals hasn't yielded anything. It is an sot23-6 package type according to my digikey ruler and I was able to work out some of the pinout from voltages on the board and following the traces around. I'm not really sure what a suitable...
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Liquid damaged macbook A1466 fan spins, but doesn't turn on.
I got a tricky one today in the form of a macbook air A1466 820-00165-A that will recognize the charger and turn the light green then back to orange and the fan will spin constantly, but the system won't power on. The screen never turns on, it doesn't make the bong noise it's supposed to, and pressing the power button doesn't do anything. When I took the board out to visibly inspect it I only found one spot of corrosion on the bios IC. I pulled the chip, cleaned it and the area with IPA and put fresh solder on both and put the bios chip back on, but when I went to test it again it still does the... -
If the chip I have selected is not the correct one which one should I use based on the part number of the chip that is in the laptop?...Leave a comment:
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The file I dumped was made with the chip winbound 25Q80DV @WSON8 selected in xgpro. I added a picture below of the IC itself and the markings on it. The only other option I have for this IC is 25Q80DV(OTP) @WSON8. All the other ones that are close are soic8/16.
This is the bios chip that was pulled off the motherboard for the hp laptop I'm looking for a bios for....Leave a comment:
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Here is the dumped bin file....Leave a comment:
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On these PSU's it's usually good practice if you've had to replace the DAP053T to also replace all the optocouplers. If they aren't the issue then it's most likely something like CapLeaker mentioned. Without having one of my working (recently refurbished by me) ones in front of me or my notebook with what work I did to refurb them I couldn't give you much more details on exactly what it could be. My notes and working PSU's are on a shelf at work.
Side note about the opto's. They are a pain in the ass to remove sometimes because of the glue they use to hold them down. If you're using...Leave a comment:
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I've had some more time using the FNIRSI component tester and I ran into my first major negative today when I was fixing an Atari 2600 with what I thought was a bulging 2200uf 16V cap. I tested it in the FNIRSI and it read at 700uf and thought ok that's to low so I grabbed a new kemet cap with the proper ratings. I decided to check it just out of habit and I got a reading of 62uf which I thought was a little weird. So I retested and got basically the same reading +- 3uf. I popped another one from my bin into the tester and got approximately the same reading again. I pulled out my old tester and...
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I got a chance to play around with it at work today and it works pretty well over all. It's accurate and unlike my other cheapo tester this one can tell identify a jfet (j111 in my case). It definitely takes longer to read things than the cheap one I pictured in my previous post though. That one is able to read in about 2 seconds for most components and maybe 5 if they are bad, but the LCR-P1 averages around 10 seconds per component and in some cases with some bad 47uf caps that were reading 2pf it took about 30 seconds.
Not sure what it tells you about the thing but if I put a bad...Leave a comment:
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What does the area look like? Could we get some pictures of where the usb port was ripped out or a before and after?
If the vias are ripped out it's possible something still isn't making a connection somewhere on the board. Usually if I have ripped vias I like to run some 34 gauge enameled wire through the via and flood it with solder to have the best chance of making the connection again.Leave a comment:
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It's technically possible the chip itself was shorted and the motherboard was detecting the short and keeping itself from turning on a potentially killing itself/catching on fire. You could try checking the IC for shorts to ground with it still on the board and then remove it and check again to see if anything changes. If there is still a short after it comes off then you'd have to either check other places on the board or inject voltage into a short to see what is getting hot on the motherboard. If you do go the route of injecting voltage though you should absolutely remove any CPU you have installed...Leave a comment:
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I saw that teardown/article in my initial looking and tried asking in a comment, but I guess WordPress never posted the comment. Plus at least in my opinion trying to figure it out like we are on here is fun/educational and generally helpful for anyone in the future looking for stuff like this or this exact thing. Educational benefits aside though would be super nice if the guy in that article reply's and is able to give me the exact value/code of the resistor.
Regardless I'm probably going to go with what CapLeaker suggested the value is based off how these types of circuits usually...Leave a comment:
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The other resistor between the gate of the mosfet and the gate of the pwm controller is a 33ohm resistor. The best I can make out on the marking to be 330, it has a small hole in it, but I'm pretty confident in that number. Looking at the blown one I'm trying to identify I'm an idiot it is connected to ground I was looking at the wrong cap when I made my original post about them being connected to the positive of the some capacitors it's connected to the negative.
So it would be safe to assume it would be a 33k resistor that has all it's markings blown off?...Leave a comment:
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