Originally posted by evilkitty
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What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-31-2017, 04:38 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
So how do you like Desoldiering Gun
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Seems i have a U3 controller
I had a unexpected job for it this morning
Replace relay in a abnormal failure state, while the coil was in the off state the resistance was 50k ohm; conclusion spring failure or weak contact due to AC arc damageLast edited by evilkitty; 12-31-2017, 02:26 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View Post“STJ
18v output.
25v caps - hell no.
for smoothing 18v you want 35v caps.
old rule, a smoothing cap should be atleast 1.5x running voltage to handle the spikes.
18+9=27
that's far too close!
That old "1.5x rule" comes from a time before switchmode power supplies existed. It has mostly to do with the fact that linear power supplies (i.e. a simple line transformer with a rectifier behind it) would output a much higher voltage when unloaded than when loaded. This is especially common with small "wall wart" -type of transformers that have poor load regulation. Hence the 1.5x voltage rating.
Also, during the early 2000's, it was common to see caps on many motherboards with much higher voltage that what the circuit needed. This was done because there weren't as many (and as good) types of low ESR capacitors as there are today. When you move to a higher voltage electrolytic cap, its size increases. This increase in the can size reduces the ESR and increases the ripple current handling capability. So in short, you get a cap with lower ESR without having to resort to a higher capacity cap.
Both of these design strategies are outdated and unnecessary when it comes to choosing caps for a switchmode power supply today. So there is absolutely NO NEED to go with the "1.5x voltage rule".
Thus, for a regulated power supply, the voltage rating of your caps really only needs to be about 20% higher than the circuit voltage.
Now, if you want to talk about cutting it close... I repaired an active amp speaker set last month which had 63V-rated caps on its LINEAR PSU filter a voltage rail that was about 59-60V. Now THAT is close. But guess what, even those caps lasted almost 20 years in that spot. And they were CapXon.After nearly 20 years, only one of the four failed. That's not too terrible, IMHO.
Last edited by momaka; 12-29-2017, 03:43 PM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View PostMost the filtering the voltage to very close to pure DC voltage
You have not said where you got your ZD-915 from but it might be the new version of software but you know which one you have when power it up
Originally posted by evilkitty View PostI would very much like a de-soldering gun, but there is one issue, i hate to spend money
I can find a ZD-915 for 119 at amazonOriginally posted by evilkitty View PostI am going to get a zd915 for Christmas, so those links would be useful
I know you said you replaced the caps in it's PSU would you happen to have cap part numbers or specs? I will need to make sure the PSU is the same in this unit, but if they are that would be a time saver
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Most the filtering the voltage to very close to pure DC voltage
You have not said where you got your ZD-915 from but it might be the new version of software but you know which one you have when power it upLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-28-2017, 08:16 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
So the only difference on it is the software that can be flashed, given one can get a hold of the new version
does the voltage regulator not clean out spikes, that is what a voltage regulator does right? or am i thinking too linear
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by evilkitty View PostWe have a JAKEC 330 uf and a Fencon 100uf cap here, both are 25v
Do these need to be low esr? i assume they should be upgraded to 35v
should these be used?
EKYB350ELL331MH20D 330uf KYB 35v
EKYB350ELL101MF11D 100uf KYB 35v
I understand the ones in the PSU should be 35v, but since the psu outputs 18v, shouldn't 25v be good as the voltage SHOULD be regulated and smoothed out at this point?
does this look like a old or new controller? *points at photo that turned out wonderful*
18v output.
25v caps - hell no.
for smoothing 18v you want 35v caps.
old rule, a smoothing cap should be atleast 1.5x running voltage to handle the spikes.
18+9=27
that's far too close!
also, if it pulses the element with DC does it have a reverse protection diode? “
I would use 35 volt on the temperature controller board
You will not know which version of the program it is load until you power up the unit the temperature controller board look alikeLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-28-2017, 05:06 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
I have a pair of pace SX80 solder extractors, there is the option to use a glass collection tube or or a cardboard collection tube of which I have around 50. Although with care the cardboard solder collectors can be opened and emptied.Last edited by llonen; 12-27-2017, 10:27 PM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View Post...
Like I said earlier I would recap the temperature controller board you can reach the pins of the caps because the pins do not go very far on the other side board because of the LCD display
that is why the caps are not flush with the board
The easiest way to get the caps off the board is heat the pad and tilt the cap to one side then heat the other pad and gently pull out the cap from the board
...
You will know if you have older version is when you turn it on it might turn off then turn right back on and might keep doing this a few times before it will stay on
The older version was used with the transformer the new version uses the switching power supply
The difference between the two is that older version the heater comes on right a way on the newer version there is a delay before the heater comes on
From what it looks like either they had a lot of the older controllers or they did not realize that you can not turn the heater on right a way so they wrote a new version of the program to fix this problem so some of the unit have this problem
Do these need to be low esr? i assume they should be upgraded to 35v
should these be used?
EKYB350ELL331MH20D 330uf KYB 35v
EKYB350ELL101MF11D 100uf KYB 35v
I understand the ones in the PSU should be 35v, but since the psu outputs 18v, shouldn't 25v be good as the voltage SHOULD be regulated and smoothed out at this point?
does this look like a old or new controller? *points at photo that turned out wonderful*
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
I think it's 12.7mm ID x 38mm L x 1.3 mm T or something like that; however I have to disassemble to measure it.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
My old desolder gun uses a glass chamber, unfortunately I cracked it. Currently using a piece of kapton tape to seal it so it works fine. I need to source another glass chamber somehow...
... or if a new gun is cheaper... *sigh* likely need to make my own somehow.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
on the old one the spring was hard to clear and you couldnt see in it.
the new one is similar to weller with the splash-shield at the back against the filter with a light spring holding it in place,
older weller instead of the spring, had an aluminium half-pipe running along the bottom of the tube - in some ways it was better.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by stj View Postgood, the gun has the new style glass chamber.
If you do not have the thin metal disk and the filter and the so called spring in the right place you have no suction
With the plastic tube there is a place for the
spring and the filter and you very suction
That is my two cents worth on itLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-27-2017, 07:56 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
good, the gun has the new style glass chamber.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Here is the pic of the gun
I would rather fix fatal flaws in the unit than deal with going though someone else for receipts and warranty process stuff
Also i would like to get have the caps needed to fix it along with all the other caps i need to order, so far i have about $30 worth of parts + shipping
this thing probably only has at most a 30 day policy on it anyway
I really do not want it to go down when i want to use it and have everything outLast edited by evilkitty; 12-27-2017, 07:13 AM.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
what exactly is going on??
if this is new then you shouldnt mess with it till the warranty runs out.
btw, post a foto of the part of the gun that collects the solder - i want to see which type you have.
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
On the note of the EEU-FR1V222L vs EKYB350ELL272MK40S, the EKYB350ELL272MK40S does not show a ESR rating, [strike]till not sure when to to low esr and not to[/strike]; i assume a low esr cap will show have a esr rating
as for the temp control board, There are 2 boards in the front bezel you are talking about the top board rightLast edited by evilkitty; 12-27-2017, 05:59 AM. Reason: found the thread made a while back answering that
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Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?
Originally posted by evilkitty View PostMay i ask why you linked a 25v cap?
I had put in the field 2200 ,3300uf and 25 , 35 volts
Then I did not look close enough what voltage they were
Originally posted by evilkitty View Postanyway i found a FR cap
EEU-FR1V222L 2200uf 35v 12.5mm diameter
Like I said earlier I would recap the temperature controller board you can reach the pins of the caps because the pins do not go very far on the other side board because of the LCD display
that is why the caps are not flush with the board
The easiest way to get the caps off the board is heat the pad and tilt the cap to one side then heat the other pad and gently pull out the cap from the board
Originally posted by evilkitty View Post
EEU-FR1V471, i assume the 470uf should be upgraded to 35v also (otherwise i
can use a EEU-FR1E471Y
I know that because on the transformer version the winding are 24 volts and 10 or 9 volts
( To me the transformer version is some what better but use a 120 volt vacuum pump motor that does not last as long as the 24 volt vacuum pump motor but sometimes you have problem with the switching power supply so I do not know which one is better
I do side work for some one who has a few machines that have servo drive that I repair
So I have a few new spare Desoldiering gun units
I have had to retire a few of them so I have some spare parts to repair them the newer ones
The heater controller board has a +5 volts and -5 volts rails
The optic sensor has 3 volts if the version of the controller is not “ U3 “
You just put a switch and a white LED and a 100 ohm resistor in line to the optic sensor
So that when you first start the Desoldiering gun you just have the LED on and not the heater on the gun after the power supply powers up for 30 seconds then turn the heater on and turn off the LED
You will know if you have older version is when you turn it on it might turn off then turn right back on and might keep doing this a few times before it will stay on
The older version was used with the transformer the new version uses the switching power supply
The difference between the two is that older version the heater comes on right a way on the newer version there is a delay before the heater comes on
From what it looks like either they had a lot of the older controllers or they did not realize that you can not turn the heater on right a way so they wrote a new version of the program to fix this problem so some of the unit have this problemLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-26-2017, 09:48 PM.
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