What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

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  • radcliffkaty1
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    looks right,
    expensive though.
    Yes, Expensive but best at that price.

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  • Techdad
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    After reading the desoldering forums, I do want to step up to an easier way to desolder than a squeeze bulb or spring method. It looks like a really good and affordable one, is the Aoyue 474A++ Digital Desoldering Station. It is around 200 so I hope it good. I read some reviews that it works OK on motherboards but I was not so sure. This is my main use right now. Anyone use this one???
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Techdad; 07-26-2018, 02:38 PM. Reason: Fix misspelling.

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    looks right,
    expensive though.
    Last edited by stj; 07-19-2018, 07:07 AM.

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  • sofTest
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    I was asking for a soldering iron the Bakon 950D T12 link some pages was no longer good
    kinda surprised you would link to a PSU that generic looking
    Is it this the one you are looking for?
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50W-...868116468.html

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  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    I did not realize that you looking for one for a soldering iron

    You need to know what is the maximum amperage that is iron is going to take to run it

    Now with the ZD-915 Desoldiering Gun with NO controller the amperage is over 8 amps @ 12 volts I did not leave that way for very long because it starts glowing very brightly and burn out

    I was doing this test because I trying to use this on battery power I have to work out some problems that I am having with this setup ( the mosfet when up in flames and burn up the iron )

    It looks like the controller on this unit was some how use the incoming power to telling controller to control the amperage but on battery power it does not work right because it does not control the the amperage

    When I work out how make it work right on battery power I will post it on this forum in a new post stay tuned
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 07-08-2018, 07:16 AM.

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  • evilkitty
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    I was asking for a soldering iron the Bakon 950D T12 link some pages was no longer good
    kinda surprised you would link to a PSU that generic looking

    Leave a comment:


  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    Did you ever fine one?
    Here is one for you


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-100V-240...r=540897323249

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  • evilkitty
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    i'll look later.
    do you have a 24v 5A psu??
    Originally posted by evilkitty
    nope, the most i have is 12v, wait i think the zd915 may be 24v, not sure about the amps, the gun is rated for 24v @ 80W so about 3.33A
    Did you ever fine one?

    on a side note, so glad i have this de-soldering gun, had to repair a DIY board, i lost a LED, a DS18B20, and 2 GPIO pins; based on the timing i am gonna blame the T-storm
    dead led measures 160Ohm resistance and my tester says unknown or damaged part

    Leave a comment:


  • evilkitty
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by momaka
    LOL, that's just a little derp nonsense from nVidia, but I'll explain.

    GeForce GT210 requires nowhere close to that amount of power. 12V @ 18 Amps is 216 Watts of power - that's how much you might expect a Radeon R9 290/X to pull near full load. But the puny GT210??? - Probably no more than 30 Watts, if even that (the GT210 is just a shrunk-down core of the 8400 GS core). The size of the heatsink on it should be a good indicator of that. But I digress, here.
    i know it is for the entire system, hell it has a 600 or 700+W psu, with all the power on the +3.3v rail...

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  • Donomite
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    dont add flux when using a desoldering unit - you will clog the nozzle badly.
    great point stj! I learned the hard way when i first used my FR300. If i have to add new solder to a joint to help desolder.. i always clean the flux away before desoldering. I havent had a clogged tip since. Its extra work but easier than having to drill out a clogged tip! I cringe when watching youtube vids of repair work when they are sucking up all that gooey flux!

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  • momaka
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    dont add flux when using a desoldering unit - you will clog the nozzle badly.
    Only if you use too much flux. Adding fresh solder also has flux in it, so it's the same thing. That's why I prefer to put flux by myself - that way I can precisely regulate how much to apply (very very little - just a tiny sand grain spec on each joint or less!)

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    dont add flux when using a desoldering unit - you will clog the nozzle badly.

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  • momaka
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    On a side note i did try to de-soldier some caps on a dell motherboard with the de-soldiering gun the solder just would not melt no matter how much heat i used and the holes were seemed too tight to pull air through
    And that's why I don't recommend desoldering guns for motherboard recaps - the multi-layer setup + thick copper traces of motherboards just makes it near impossible to pull caps out with a desoldering (vacuum) iron/gun. Save those desoldering irons/guns for removing through-hole components from single-layer boards (like chips and transformers from TV boards).

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    but i should remove the GPU it is probably making the PSU think there is a short (GT 210 calls for 20A PSU, PSU has 18A on the +12v)
    LOL, that's just a little derp nonsense from nVidia, but I'll explain.

    GeForce GT210 requires nowhere close to that amount of power. 12V @ 18 Amps is 216 Watts of power - that's how much you might expect a Radeon R9 290/X to pull near full load. But the puny GT210??? - Probably no more than 30 Watts, if even that (the GT210 is just a shrunk-down core of the 8400 GS core). The size of the heatsink on it should be a good indicator of that. But I digress, here.

    In any case, nVidia and ATI just aren't very clear when they specify their power ratings. That 18-20 Amp "requirement" you saw is actually just a recommendation for the whole system. But depending on your CPU TDP and number of HDDs and other devices you have, you might need more or less than that. nVidia and ATI just give those numbers as a ballpark... and sometimes that ballpark is in a completely different state... but again, I digress.

    In short, if you have a basic PC with 1-2 HDDs, 1-2 ODDs, and just an average CPU, then a 200-250 Watt power supply with at least 14 Amps on the 12V rail should be able to run that PC and a low-end video card like the GeForce GT210/420/520/620/720 and Radeon HD3450/4350/5450/6450.

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    I'll admit i did not thing of using the tip cleaning tools with my gun on the pcb, if the solder will not melt i do not see how it would work though
    i could not even get the caps out 80% of the time on the board that is what took so long, when i could not get the solder out of the empty hole with the gun i drilled it out
    in the event i did get the solder to melt by the time i got the cap half way out it solidified (heat was applied the entire time)
    Sounds like you didn't have your tip prepped right.

    I too will admit that I rarely clean my iron's tips, but that's because I constantly add fresh solder to them and let the old oxidized solder fall of by itself.

    The key to making solder stick to your tip is to add fresh solder to it. If fresh solder does not stick to the tip at all, you need to clean the tip with something mildly abrasive. In general, it's best to clean tips in brass shavings, but a wet sponge / paper towel works okay as well. If these don't do it, you might have to use a fine sand paper on the tip - though that could ruin the coating on it in the long term, so I don't recommend it. But once the tip is clean, coat it with fresh solder and let it stay on there. Moreover, don't let the tip overheat before you attempt to coat it with solder - otherwise if it's too hot, the solder won't stick to it. Also, once the solder stays on it for too long and the tip has gotten very hot before, that solder will be oxidized and will hardly stick to anything. Thus, add more fresh solder. In addition to that, always add extra flux to the solder joints you want to work on (be it paste or gel flux). Rosin (R) or Rosin Mildly Activated (RMA) is the type of flux you should be using. DO NOT USE plumber's flux (i.e. fully activated flux) - this stuff is very corrosive and will eat your board traces away.
    Last edited by momaka; 06-24-2018, 05:09 PM.

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  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    that must be the switcher, there are some with a linear psu in them.
    The linear version had it own problems with bad connection on bridge rectifiers or to the transistor or mosfets which ever ones they used

    I had one of them that I had to repair a couple times for these types of problems

    Yes it is the switching power supply module that has this problem
    The controller boards that boot up and showing nothing or shows ( U1 ) are the older controller boards and were meant for the transformer version did not have the time delay for turning on the heater element which is about 5 seconds
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 06-24-2018, 09:59 AM.

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  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by stj
    btw, what did you do with those faulty controllers?

    The back light is what fails on the controller boards but what also happens is that the temperature swings are more pronounced when the back light goes bad

    That is why I was glad that I found an eBay Seller who is selling them I bought four of them
    and they are the newer one ( U3 ) that shows when booting up

    Are you wanting one of them if you do PM me and I will send you one

    I only have two of them that has done this

    I would have to look for the other one
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 06-24-2018, 09:42 AM.

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    btw, what did you do with those faulty controllers?

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    that must be the switcher, there are some with a linear psu in them.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    Originally posted by evilkitty
    nope, the most i have is 12v, wait i think the zd915 may be 24v, not sure about the amps, the gun is rated for 24v @ 80W so about 3.33A
    Its more like about 5 amps at start up then drop down to about 3.33 amps

    18 volts @ 12 amp but when you get near the 12 amps on start up the power

    it does not like see that amperage it will keep restarting the power supply ( it needs 30 seconds to stabilize) then you can get the full power of the power supply

    It runs the gun , the air pump and the controller board and a cooling fan if it has one
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 06-24-2018, 08:51 AM.

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  • evilkitty
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    nope, the most i have is 12v, wait i think the zd915 may be 24v, not sure about the amps, the gun is rated for 24v @ 80W so about 3.33A

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

    i'll look later.
    do you have a 24v 5A psu??

    Leave a comment:

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