Digital Multimeters (Also Brymen BM869 repair)
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Re: Digital Multimeters
BTW, I started a thread on eevblog about this meter. There is lots of interest in Brymen meters there because Dave's current eevblog branded multimeter is a Brymen BM235.
The BM869 is also popular among some members there.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/...in-real-world/--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Digital Multimeters
i did measure the values of the parts i took off jff, referencing pic 36, the bottom left resistor measures 1k, the others broke taking them off. both ptcs are open. movs are 200ohm, open, and the big one is 1k. the r76 is just some residue on it, tests ~12.7Mohm and reads 156. same as r75. cleaning up and pics now.
I have seen some abused meters, but this one is in the top 5.
If you are willing to put in 1 hour work, I suggest removing all 4 power resistors (green), 2 PTCs and 3 MOVs. No need to measure or test the components. They are all likely bad just by looking at the pictures.
After removing all these components, scrub the entire area with 91% IPA using a clean toothbrush. Scrub until all the carbon residue is gone.
After it has been cleaned and dried, please post pictures so we can assess the damage.
If the damage looks minimal, we can, temporarily, put in regular 1k ohm resistors for the 4 power resistors and 2 PTCs. For testing, we do not have to put in any MOVs.
So with 6 temporarily 1k ohm resistors, we can power up and see if volts and ohms work. If it works, then we can order proper replacements.
PS. Post a picture of R76 and measure it in-circuit.Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
Except for that one resistor area, the rest of the pcb looks pretty good.
I would take a bit more effort to clean off that carbon residue. Here are two case studies by modemhead where that carbon can be conductive.
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ideal-carbon-footprint/
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/yokogawa...03-multimeter/
After cleaning that area a bit more, I suggest soldering in the 1k ohm resistors as discussed and trying some low voltage measurements like measuring a 1.5 AA cell. Then try measuring a 1k ohm resistor.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Digital Multimeters
I cleared as much of the black away as i could without digging too deep. i soldered in those 6 1k resistors and upon power up in volts and ohms it correctly shows 0 volts and 0 ohms, then with a battery showed 1.4v and i had a 40k resistor that showed within spec of the resistor. even gave capacitance and diode a test. didnt try ac measurements as i have no readily available ac source besides the 120v line. dont wanna blow it up a second time.....
is it now time to order correct replacement parts?
Except for that one resistor area, the rest of the pcb looks pretty good.
I would take a bit more effort to clean off that carbon residue. Here are two case studies by modemhead where that carbon can be conductive.
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ideal-carbon-footprint/
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/yokogawa...03-multimeter/
After cleaning that area a bit more, I suggest soldering in the 1k ohm resistors as discussed and trying some low voltage measurements like measuring a 1.5 AA cell. Then try measuring a 1k ohm resistor.Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
i soldered in those 6 1k resistors and upon power up in volts and ohms it correctly shows 0 volts and 0 ohms, then with a battery showed 1.4v and i had a 40k resistor that showed within spec of the resistor.
even gave capacitance and diode a test.
didnt try ac measurements as i have no readily available ac source besides the 120v line. dont wanna blow it up a second time.....
If all the other functions work, AC likely works.
is it now time to order correct replacement parts?
We also need the markings from the 3 MOVs in order to get the proper replacements.
For the power resistors, we know they are 1k ohm, but I'm unsure what size and type (flameproof, fusible, metal, etc?). I'm guessing 2W from the size, but they could be 1W.
I'll post a question on the eevblog forum asking for the above values.
Now there is some concern given the damage to the pcb that the input protection might not have the same performance in a future "oops" moment. I can pretty much say with confidence that if you sent this meter back to Brymen for $$$ repair, they would chuck it in the recycle bin and send you a new meter. They have to worry about meeting UL standards, liability, etc.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
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Re: Digital Multimeters
For Dave's BM235 meter, he asked but Brymen said it was proprietary. If they denied Dave, they will deny your average no-name hobbyist.
you can get them for uni-t and fluke without problems,
For UNI-T, I have seen many schematics on the Internet. Whether they are accurate, up to date and correct is debatable. For example, we have seen multiple pcb revisions in their popular UT-61E over at eevblog so the schematic on the Internet may not be up to date?
and it's not like you cant reverse engineer a meter.
so they have no real reason not to help you.Last edited by retiredcaps; 06-01-2016, 11:35 PM.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
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Re: Digital Multimeters
BTW, I strongly suggest ordering these parts from a reputable distributor like Digikey or Mouser. Avoid ebay, aliexpress, etc for these input protection components.
I also suggest buying the big brand names. The components should be in the $1 to $2 each range so there is really no reason skimp on money here. You only need 4 power resistors, 2 PTCs and 3 MOVs or 9 components. I'm guessing the total + shipping should be under $20 USD.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
--- end sig file ---Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
BTW, I started a thread on eevblog about this meter. There is lots of interest in Brymen meters there because Dave's current eevblog branded multimeter is a Brymen BM235.
The BM869 is also popular among some members there.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/...in-real-world/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9ChhjOKyLALast edited by stj; 06-02-2016, 01:24 AM.Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
Yep, not cheap.
There are some counterfeits on ebay so I would also avoid buying these brand name fuses off ebay, aliexpress.
Fortunately, I rarely measure current and have not blown a fuse due to an "oops" moment.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
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Re: Digital Multimeters
this is completely separate, but my Milliamp range is inaccurate. by a lot. say my meter shows 200ma, but the load is really 100ma. this is based from an harbor freight cheapo and the 10A range of the 869. is it possible a slight overcurrent (say ~800ma) could damage the fuse without blowing it? or would this be something else?Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
Sounds like either the probes/probe wires have been damaged and/or that something else in the meter has gone bad.Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.
My computer doubles as a space heater.
Permanently Retired Systems:
RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.
Kooky and Kool Systems
- 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
- 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
- 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
- Main Workstation - Fully operational!
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Re: Digital Multimeters
How come? Because of the current draw of the meter with the input protection frying?Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.
My computer doubles as a space heater.
Permanently Retired Systems:
RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.
Kooky and Kool Systems
- 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
- 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
- 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
- Main Workstation - Fully operational!
sigpicComment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
exactly, the protection shorted out, so the cables had to handle the maximum current at maximum voltage till something gave - probably those resistors.
i dont know why meters dont have a fuse behind the main input to cut the current as soon as the mov's tripLast edited by stj; 06-02-2016, 10:22 AM.Comment
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Re: Digital Multimeters
Who knows... just another horror show because of price-cutting measures.
Manufacturer:Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.
My computer doubles as a space heater.
Permanently Retired Systems:
RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.
Kooky and Kool Systems
- 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
- 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
- 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
- Main Workstation - Fully operational!
sigpicComment
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