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Klein MM400 resistor identification

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    Klein MM400 resistor identification

    I managed to blow the fuses in my Klein MM400 multimeter and when I replaced them I was still getting a cal and error0 message. I started looking around the board and found one resistor that was testing OL and has a visible burn mark on the top of it so I can't tell what the value is anymore. Its marked as R19 on the board and I included a picture below of what it looks like.

    Click image for larger version

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    Does anyone know from working on these what the value is or have this exact meter they could open up and check the value? It's not my only meter, but it is my first real non harbor freight meter so I'd like to see it working again if I can for sentimental reasons.

    Edit: added in some extra details I forgot about.
    Attached Files

    #2
    I found this video and took this image, best I can do. KLEIN MM400 Multimeter Review & Teardown! - YouTube
    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      OP you're not telling us the whole story. The fuse is for protecting the shunts when measuring current. An overload there is supposed to be clamped by the 5 MELF diodes D18,19,20,21,22.
      R19 looks to be "1002" 10kΩ and burning that up takes a lot of voltage overload say over 120V. I would expect further damage but maybe you got lucky.

      If you have another multimeter, you can check some basics on the DMM chip to see if it survived, or the protective clamp transistors as well.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by R_J View Post
        I found this video and took this image, best I can do. KLEIN MM400 Multimeter Review & Teardown! - YouTube
        Thank you for the photos I wasn't able to find that video when I was checking youtube for teardown videos or any repair videos for my model. That's exactly what I need. Fingers crossed that resistor is all that is wrong with it.

        Originally posted by redwire View Post
        OP you're not telling us the whole story. The fuse is for protecting the shunts when measuring current. An overload there is supposed to be clamped by the 5 MELF diodes D18,19,20,21,22.
        R19 looks to be "1002" 10kΩ and burning that up takes a lot of voltage overload say over 120V. I would expect further damage but maybe you got lucky.

        If you have another multimeter, you can check some basics on the DMM chip to see if it survived, or the protective clamp transistors as well.
        Whole story is simple was checking a capacitor in a microwave like I've done several times with this meter it sparked and then the meter stopped working. I was checking to make sure there wasn't any voltage left in the cap since it had been sitting around for about a week before I decided to work on it and didn't want to have a very unpleasant surprise. Feel like it's worth loosing the multimeter to prevent an accident on one of those caps. My guess is it still had way to much voltage in it when I checked it, but wouldn't have had any other way of knowing that other than checking it since I let it sit around for a week.

        When I started trying to diagnose my meter I tested all the diodes, transistors, and resistors in the circuit and everything was testing fine except for the one R19 resistor.I don't have any way of testing if the chip is good really without replacing the one blown component that I was able to find and hoping that the chip itself isn't fried. I'm not getting anything out of the ordinary around the main chip or any of the legs of the chip. The only things shorted in diode mode are the ground pins of the chip and like I said none of the transistors are reading as shorted or have diode readings I wouldn't expect.

        Thank you though for the information though it is very informative and hopefully I am just really lucky on this one.

        Comment


          #5
          I use a junky screwdriver to short out a microwave oven cap. They're supposed to have a built-in discharge resistor...

          You can try put in any 10k junkbox resistor lying around just to see what it does.
          But a microwave oven cap discharge is way more energy pulse than any multimeter I know can take. It would not blow the fuse though.
          The multimeter uses good old DreamTech DMM IC DM1106EN I think. Very popular used in many multimeters. No idea if it or the EEPROM survived.

          Comment


            #6
            the meter did it's job, it told you the cap was charged with several KV

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by redwire View Post
              I use a junky screwdriver to short out a microwave oven cap. They're supposed to have a built-in discharge resistor...

              You can try put in any 10k junkbox resistor lying around just to see what it does.
              But a microwave oven cap discharge is way more energy pulse than any multimeter I know can take. It would not blow the fuse though.
              The multimeter uses good old DreamTech DMM IC DM1106EN I think. Very popular used in many multimeters. No idea if it or the EEPROM survived.
              That was the plan tomorrow morning just to see if I can get it to spring back to life in any way. Be very interested to see if anything is still alive, but I'll try to report back tomorrow with the results. Luckily I've got tons of surface mount resistors so sourcing it will be easy.

              It was absolutely more than that thing could take and despite it having a built in bleeder resistor it most assuredly was not working. I wouldn't have thought it would blow the fuses, but both of them are definitely blown used two other meters to test them and both of them were testing open so they're done.

              Originally posted by stj View Post
              the meter did it's job, it told you the cap was charged with several KV
              Yeah the meter did along with the loud pop and the really bright flash.

              Comment


                #8
                Update on the blown resistor. I replaced it and then a short appeared on the main DM1106EN IC. I removed the shorted cap and the short was still there. I removed the IC and the short went away. Looks like I killed the main IC unfortunately.

                This DMM had a good decently long life for what I paid for it 8ish years ago ($30 on an amazon sale) so unfortunately it gets to be retired after a good working life of daily use.

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