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#41 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: Alberta
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: 120VAC 61Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,589
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![]() Quote:
![]() I WOULD be more picky on a motherboard or more critical device.
__________________
36 Monitors, 3 TVs, 4 Laptops, 1 motherboard, 1 Printer, 1 iMac, 2 hard drive docks and one IP Phone repaired so far.... |
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#42 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,145
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![]() He's talking about the POWER SUPPLY board, which jetadm123 suggested he recap, along with the 3 caps on the inverter board.
As has been seen, if those 3 caps fail, they take out the paired MOSFETs, which are nigh impossible to find in originals. |
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#43 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() So the capacitor arrived and its a snap-in. In other words, It's worthless to me. The only non-snap-in cap that fits my specs on digikey is out of stock and with a minimum qty of 250. Any suggestions?
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#44 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 85
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![]() are we talking ONE cap was wrong (snap in)? what are the specs m8? I will look it up for you.... maybe I even have one.
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#45 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() I found a reference on mouser electronics in another post and I found these two caps:
Nichicon - UPZ2W121MHD http://*******/lYYf4s Nichicon - UPT2W121MRD http://*******/mo5dQ8 I ordered one of each even though one of them is on backorder until the armageddon... |
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#46 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() Dude BlkSmth I just saw your post...two second too late.
The specs are 450V 120uF: http://chinsan.co.th/files/PW.pdf Any help is appreciated. |
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#47 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 85
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![]() Quote:
I've only got one 18x42 450v 100uf laying around that I replaced thinking it might be bad when I was greener :P It wasnt.... Last edited by BlkSmth; 06-12-2011 at 09:14 AM.. |
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#48 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 85
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![]() According to post #7 & #10 if that is close to your board you can replace with larger if needed...not just by size in spec. Capacitors like that are +/-20% so ie: 120+ 20% or -20% shhould try to stay the same... but also voltage can be increased if needed, its just what the object can handle. so you could use:
most of these: http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...+120uf&FS=True |
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#49 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,145
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![]() Quote:
You'll have to call Mouser to cancel. Replying to their emails is useless. . Last edited by Toasty; 06-12-2011 at 09:27 AM.. |
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#50 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() Off topic question: I need a tool to help remove some silicon from the board. I can always use a screwdriver but is there a tool that was designed specifically for this purpose? I would rather not risk scratching the surface of the IC board.
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#51 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 85
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![]() The silocon holding the cap down? I used another flat tipped solder iron...it flows like hot glue for me usually
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#52 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() Toasty: You want me to use the old leads? Just solder those onto the snap-in cap and then solder to the power board?
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#53 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 85
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#54 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
I'm a: Professional Tech
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![]() I also answered this before in post #18.
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#55 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
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![]() Quote:
Cut the old cap off close to it's body and solder new one right to the 2 leads now sticking out of board. If the old leads are not long enough, you'll need to get new wire that will reach. Last edited by Toasty; 06-12-2011 at 09:41 AM.. |
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#56 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() Toasty: I'm sorry, I misread post #13. Instead, I cut the leads as close to the board as possible. So, now that I have managed to mess that up, where do I find this wire that you are talking about?
To be honest, I don't know how comfortable I feel with using a snap-in capacitor for this job. I would rather use the "correct" capacitor with the long leads but whatever. Maybe thats just because I'm a crazy (OCD) fool. Also, about post #18: 1) I don't own any plastic tools and I've never had to purchase one. I tried home depot, lowes, and radio shack but I couldnt find a tool that fit my criteria (plastic, easy to maneuver around a circuit board, and sharp enough to remove the silicon). I tried googling for it but came up empty as well. 2) This stuff is really on there. When trying to remove the capacitor from the silicon I was pulling so hard that finally I had to stop. I was nervous, thinking I would end up breaking something. I decided to use a dull knife instead to finally pry it away from the silicon. I slowly removed/scraped the silicon off until it was finally ready to be removed. That being said, do you have a specific tool in mind that I could buy or know of a store that I could go to find one? I definately don't want to use a knife (dull or otherwise) on the circuit board. |
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#57 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() BlkSmth: Thats the capacitor I ended up buying. Its a snap-in, the leads aren't long enough to reach the holes.
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#58 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,145
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![]() Plastic knives, forks, spoons. Chop off the handle and sharpen it/refine it to make it do what you need. Find a sturdy one whose handle doesn't bend.
If it's actually a (hot) glue, then like BlkSmth said you can use the soldering iron to melt it. Small spool of #18 or #20 solid wire (bare or enameled) can be had from Radio Shack. Or, I can mail you a piece. ![]() |
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#59 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
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![]() Toasty: I tried everything that you suggested. I soldered the "wire" to the capacitor and then soldered the wire to the power board and nothing. I still get no power. Now, I'm not sure if my wire was enameled or not. I stripped the plastic from the wire and used the exposed copper by itself. I did not sand the wire down at all. But then again I could not find the word enameled anywhere on the packaging.
I realized yesterday that soldering is not as easy as I thought it would be. I definately suck at soldering. I think in part its because my hands shake too much and in part because I don't have a proper soldering technique. I had more trouble desoldering than anything else but still I was disappointed in my performance. I guess I'll just have to wait for the other capacitor to get in before I can make a definative statement on whether I can fix this or not. P.S. Where can I find Silicon for use in this type of application? My capacitor is just dangling for now. |
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#60 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2007
City & State: East Coast, USA
Line Voltage: 220-221
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,145
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![]() >>I still get no power.<<
Did you check the fuse for continuity? What voltage are you getting across the cap? >>Where can I find Silicon for use in this type of application?<< Any decent brand of -silicone- caulk/adhesive will do. Local hardware store "brand" in the squeeze tube. Color is your choice. ![]() |
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