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Old 04-02-2013, 11:01 AM   #1
fxdfireman
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Default Relay?

Hey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:33 PM   #2
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Default Re: Relay?

I havent found one but this has all the specs
http://www.devicemart.co.kr/goods/view.php?seq=27675

I see you have been looking for 2-3 years some places say out of stock
special order. Suppose you could contact and ask how much.
or contact hexcell for a distributor.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:48 PM   #3
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Default Re: Relay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fxdfireman View Post
Hey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
I found this I hope this helps

You will have to have an ordrer of $50.00 USD or more to order from them


http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/GENERIC/CS1124SH which would be 24 of them unless you find something else to order
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Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 04-02-2013 at 04:00 PM..
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: Relay?

That's a Texcell-Netcom relay , CS series

http://www.texcell-netcom.co.kr/eng/...sp?file_seq=25

Datasheet is here: http://www.texcell-netcom.co.kr/eng/...1363880438.pdf

Basically the specs are :

CS 11 - 12 SH
① ② ③ ④
① Relay Model CS
② Contact Arrangement 11: 1 Form A (SPST-NO) 1: 1 Form C (SPDT)
③ Coil Voltage 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 18, 24, 48VDC
④ Contact Capacity & Coil Power
SH:
5A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)
3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form C)

SGH: 10A 250VAC / 30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)

H: 3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)

Q: 8A 250VAC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)

So you can replace with any relay that fits the size ( 18.4 X 10.2 X 15.3 ) and with the pins in the right places (see datasheet pictures) and that's SPST-NO , with coil 24v 450mW ( about 18mA) or around that value, contact rating 5a or better.

See this for example:

Digikey : http://goo.gl/5vW0m

Mouser : http://goo.gl/1su9T

Newark : http://goo.gl/YizAE (further filter to get only spst-no, i didn't filter by that)

A lot of those seem to match the size, but you have to double check where exactly the pins are positioned by checking datasheets for each of those.

Technically, as long as the coil is 24v and 450w and the relay is SPST-NO, where the pins are doesn't really matter that much, you could hack it just by soldering some wires where the pins of the old relay were and just solder the wires to the new relay and isolate the pins with some heatshrink.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:18 PM   #5
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Default Re: Relay?

By the way, was the old relay has open winding or bad contacts?
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:59 PM   #6
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Default Re: Relay?

Those relays are a standard size, so there are many manufacturers that make suitable substitutes.
Big relay RY07 (left) is the one switching on the magnetron. The smaller relays are for "accessories" like the lamps and fans etc.
I found Tyco T77 series with 24VDC coil, SPST 10A that looks ok:
Digikey PB369-ND $2.28
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:51 PM   #7
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Default Re: Relay?

mariushm!

The one thing I'd add is that the original relay is a safety agency rated/approved part, so you should replace it with a similarly approved part. I don't remember whether the Tyco T77 series is agency approved.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:47 PM   #8
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Default Re: Relay?

The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:42 AM   #9
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Default Re: Relay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwire View Post
The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
Indeed. We had a microwave at school a few years ago which caught fire. It was a cheapo 'chef-mate' branded one. The reason? Cheapo relay. I measured the contacts and they were at 200 ohms, no wonder why it ignited!
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:50 AM   #10
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Default Re: Relay?

Thanks for all the help, one of the relays has a bad contact you can here it click(verified with a meter) but it don't turn the night light on. There is no output on that relay. I just wasn't sure how to break the numbers down on the relay, and make sure i get a comparable one that is safe. The wife would be mad if it starts on fire after i fix it!
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:05 PM   #11
PeteS in CA
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Default Re: Relay?

Thanks, redwire. The originals also have CSA (Canada), TUV (Germany, I think), and Semko (Sweden). But UL and VDE should suffice.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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Default Re: Relay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwire View Post
The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
You mean a snubber cap? I've also seen MOV's to help drain inductive spikes. I don't think I've ever seen caps tho...
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:14 PM   #13
redwire
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Default Re: Relay?

Having a 22-33nF X-capacitor across relay/switch contacts acts a bit like a snubber, it suppresses arcs and greatly increases relay/switch life.

Example: My mom's Maytag stove - every so often a heating element goes full blast, even though set to simmer. Found the thermostat contacts would arc and get stuck. Fixed with caps across the contacts, although some safety risk with leakage current available at the element socket ~0.8mA, if cleaning things with element removed and a wet rag. I think it's worse leakage current using a MOV.

I also got tired of replacing motor relays on my furnace control board, so I added a cap and it's been good for years. Same with my lousy dishwasher motor-start relay.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:37 AM   #14
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Default Re: Relay?

You might want to try a smaller capacitor, maybe like 10nf or so to decrease the leakage current. I wonder how well a tvs diode would work.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:33 AM   #15
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Default Re: Relay?

I hope you know what you are doing and that you have all the nessesary test equipment to test it after you repair it including a microwave leak tester as microwaves are dangerous.

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Old 04-15-2013, 10:37 AM   #16
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Default Re: Relay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by popeye View Post
microwave leak tester as microwaves are dangerous
How about putting an 802.11b/g AP in the microwave (microwave off, of course) and seeing if you get a signal outside?
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