I've only ever seen them for sale on eBay. Chinese junk would be my guess, but I've never seen one in person.
I second that.
Since it's in a PC ATX PSU, just replace with the standard low ESR you'd normally use in a PSU... i.e. Chemicon KY/KYB, Nichicon PW/HE, Panasonic FC, etc.
I've just retired a couple of old digital receiver boxes with NCKN caps in the power supply.
All tested good, and this was after some 8 or 9 years of constant use. The one cap from another brand (Rulycon by the looks of things) reads completely out of spec (ESR meter reads it as a pair of diodes!!!), but the receivers were still working fine.
I'd say based on this very small sample that these caps are reasonable for Chinese offerings.
If you search around the forum, you'll find many instances of failed NKCONs. I guess they are better than some truly awful Chinese brands, but that's not saying too much. Maybe NCKN and NKCON are different brands, though.
Naa, I mean NCKN, as you can see in the link I've posted in this thread.
By the looks of the PSU, I think it's safe to assume that it was an earlier Super Flower model, especially when you take into account that it's labeled Silentmaxx who tend to use Supeflower...
But still, this PSU is rather old...
So I really do not know what to expect. But since I've found them in a Super Flower unit, I tend to belive that they aren't that bad like HEC or fCon capacitors...
So I really do not know what to expect. But since I've found them in a Super Flower unit, I tend to belive that they aren't that bad like HEC or fCon capacitors...
Or perhaps Super Flower knew what they were doing and designed the PSU well so that the caps wouldn't be stressed as much, kind of like what Delta does so that even CapXon in their PSUs last a somewhat more reasonable amount of time.
Or perhaps Super Flower knew what they were doing and designed the PSU well so that the caps wouldn't be stressed as much, kind of like what Delta does so that even CapXon in their PSUs last a somewhat more reasonable amount of time.
Not if you rip em out and throw them away- seeing crapxon is a bad joke at this point.
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066
All style and no substance.
Originally posted by smashstuff30
guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty! guilty of being cheap-made!
They are, true. But I still maintain that CapXon seems to last longer in Delta PSUs than anywhere else... well relatively speaking, I should add .
In the words of Jackie Gleason: "Hardy-har-har."
Even Ltecs last* in Delta supplies. If the pulse width is wider (transformer ratio is higher) the caps see less stress. A 12V output, with 28V and narrow pulse width into the output inductor stresses the caps more than the same 12V output but 20V and narrower pulse width.
*=Yes, define "last," but it's more than 8 months... Or one month, like with those "replace power" things.
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066
All style and no substance.
Originally posted by smashstuff30
guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty! guilty of being cheap-made!
Or perhaps Super Flower knew what they were doing and designed the PSU well so that the caps wouldn't be stressed as much, kind of like what Delta does so that even CapXon in their PSUs last a somewhat more reasonable amount of time.
As I say though I have seen them in a nasty STB switching power supply (from a bottom-of-the-barrel manufacturer -- anyone in the UK knows that "Bush" do not source their gear from the best companies!), with around 8-10 years of constant use, and the ESR still reads like a new cap.
Even if they weren't that badly stressed that's still not an indication of a bad cap IMO.
Wow! Those look quite leaky. Try charging them to 9V and then short the terminals on the cap after about 1 minute. A leaky cap will be almost drained and not do much. A good 1000 uF or higher cap will produce a small spark.
It gets even better with 16V caps charged to 12-15 Volts. My low-ESR Rubycon MCZ and Nichicon HZ caps will leave a permanent burn mark on whatever tool I used for shorting their leads.
Hi, I have some 32 bits computer motherboards that need repair, as they fail to
power on.
Here are some examples :
(N.B. "capacitors" indicated here are electrolytic capacitors located in the onboard
switching supply area).
(N.B. #2 : I could not find a 3300 microF aluminum-polymer with a higher voltage
than 6.3 V.)
1 - Motherboard #1 : this is an Asrock K7VT2 (socket A) that still works well. To put it on test
I replaced capacitors with aluminum-polymer.
3300 microF/6.3 V. x 4 replaced by 3300 microF/6.3 V. (KYOCERA...
hey all, iv got my favourite battery charger here which iv had for many years probably 15 years now or maybe even more. it still works good but thought id open it up to clean the dust out of it, lots of dust inside but now its clean and noticed 4 capacitors inside it and wondered if i should replace them.
it has inside:
2 x 47uf 16v caps 105c branded as Su'scon (lol sounds sus to me)
2 x 470uf 16v LZ105c branded as G.Luxon
not heard of these brands are they any good?
iv attached photos of the charger and the board inside for an idea on the type of...
I did not have any 27uf @ 50 volt capacitors but one nice thing is that it has enough room for two capacitors in parallel a 22uf and a 4.7uf @ 50 volts 22 plus 4.7 equals 26.7uf which so very close to 27uf I will show some pictures of it sometime tomorrow
This is one of the shit est boards I seen in a very long time and it was the daughter board the traces just lifting off the board I had to use the capacitor leads to repair the the traces and the main board is not any better because I had to repair several traces for the daughter board to the main board
I picked up a 70" Samsung UN70TU7000WXZA. The original owner said they were watching it when the power surged and knocked it out. I pulled the back off the TV and disconnected the main board from the power board, and the LED backlight came on, which I was told meant the power board was good. When everything is plugged in the standby light will not come on, looking at the main board BN94-17775A with a thermal imaging gun I can see one of the chips labeled 3202 is 251 degrees F just sitting idle. I found a replacement board, BN94-16115X; this board has the same symptoms, except it is a different...
I recently purchased as MSI RTX 2080 SEAHAWK X, which isn't working. I noticed there are 2 capacitors missing from the back- see images. I am wondering, could this explain why the card won't work? I appreciate any help!
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