My Qwest Actiontec m1000 recently started dropping off DSL even when hardwired through the LAN, not just the w1000 wireless module. So after several hour long or better discussions with qwest tech support, BTW the folks were pretty good IMHO, they said my modem was going bad. I happened to have purchased a second used m1000 at a surplus store and I was able to substitute it but the problem persisted for testing but could still not connect to the Internet. My neighbor has Century Link also and he has allowed me to connect to his wireless when needed so I was pretty sure, okay I was positive that it was my setup. I tested all the phone jacks and the Network box at the entrance to the house but still had the same problem intermittently...sometimes power cycling would make it work for a few days, but finally, nothing worked so during my last phone call, the tech gave me the PPID and password I needed to set into my second modem so I could test it fully. I was successful in making the changes via the ULR interface at 198.068.00.01 I think that's the URL. I was also able to reset the SSID and my passkey so I had a true visible clone that my other computers and kid's Netflix account could use.
So here's where this ends...I began feeling that maybe my 24/7 ontime for over 6 years may have heated up the unit enough to cause some internal caps to go bad. Sure enough, inside I found a 470uF 10VDC cap bulging so I literally broke it off the board and soldered a replacement to the remaining leads and fired it up. My first try was with a used cap from another repair and it didn't work and reacted exactly the same as before. So I popped in a second used cap and it fired up and it connected just fine. I can provide pics if needed but it's the only one of that value and of course, if it's bulging you can see it has failed.
So here's where this ends...I began feeling that maybe my 24/7 ontime for over 6 years may have heated up the unit enough to cause some internal caps to go bad. Sure enough, inside I found a 470uF 10VDC cap bulging so I literally broke it off the board and soldered a replacement to the remaining leads and fired it up. My first try was with a used cap from another repair and it didn't work and reacted exactly the same as before. So I popped in a second used cap and it fired up and it connected just fine. I can provide pics if needed but it's the only one of that value and of course, if it's bulging you can see it has failed.
Comment