Need help to indentify this cap

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • herita
    Member
    • Aug 2012
    • 17
    • France

    #1

    Need help to indentify this cap

    Hello everybody,

    I have this cap broken when the the mother board fell out of the table.

    I don't know what cap it is , how much volt or µ so i can find a replacement ?

    Here is the photo taken of this cap on other mother board.

    Can you tell me what it is like cap ?
    Thank you guys.



    Here is the cap:

    Last edited by herita; 10-24-2014, 08:25 AM.
  • kasfamily
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Aug 2014
    • 772
    • Russia

    #2
    Re: Need help to indentify this cap

    already here

    Comment

    • Agent24
      I see dead caps
      • Oct 2007
      • 4977
      • New Zealand

      #3
      Re: Need help to indentify this cap

      If I can read that datasheet properly it means 22uF 10v.
      "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
      -David VanHorn

      Comment

      • Almighty1
        Badcaps Veteran
        • Apr 2014
        • 222
        • United States

        #4
        Re: Need help to indentify this cap

        When I saw the picture, I thought it was a polymer since it doesn't have the vent etchings on top but seems to be a aluminum electrolytic per the spec sheet.

        Comment

        • Agent24
          I see dead caps
          • Oct 2007
          • 4977
          • New Zealand

          #5
          Re: Need help to indentify this cap

          Originally posted by Almighty1
          When I saw the picture, I thought it was a polymer since it doesn't have the vent etchings on top but seems to be a aluminum electrolytic per the spec sheet.
          Yeah, they can get a bit confusing, they look similar.
          "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
          -David VanHorn

          Comment

          • Almighty1
            Badcaps Veteran
            • Apr 2014
            • 222
            • United States

            #6
            Re: Need help to indentify this cap

            So much for asking how to tell the difference between a polymer vs a aluminum electrolytic which someone said, the former doesn't have the vent etching but seems like this one doesn't have it either.

            Comment

            • Agent24
              I see dead caps
              • Oct 2007
              • 4977
              • New Zealand

              #7
              Re: Need help to indentify this cap

              The absence of a vent stamp will not tell you if it's a polymer. But, a polymer-looking cap with a vent stamp is NOT a polymer, just a plain electrolytic in a different can type.

              Though you can guess.. if it's used in a switching supply\boost converter\VRM circuit etc it's more likely to be a polymer, if it's just in a standard circuit it's probably a standard electrolytic.

              You need to find manufacturer and series to know for sure, I believe.
              "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
              -David VanHorn

              Comment

              • mariushm
                Badcaps Legend
                • May 2011
                • 3799

                #8
                Re: Need help to indentify this cap

                In this case, it's not a polymer capacitor. It's a simple electrolytic capacitor.

                They don't use vents on capacitors that are very small and low capacitance because physically, the electrolyte inside can not produce enough gas through deterioration to make the can explode, the aluminum is simply too strong for the light pressure gas would cause.

                It's a 22 uF 10v (letter A after 22 tells you this) electrolytic capacitor. Replace with a good Low ESR capacitor and you'll be fine.
                If you want, you can replace with a capacitor that has a higher voltage rating (16-35v), as long as the footprint is the same.

                Comment

                Related Topics

                Collapse

                • gjgib
                  ASUS Zenbook UX334FAC (UX334FL REV2.0) - No Display. Fell off the table.
                  by gjgib
                  Hi again!

                  -Laptop fell from the table.
                  -Motherboard -seems- intact.
                  -It turns on kinda normal but NO DISPLAY, NO BACKLIGHT.

                  I'm not too familiar with ASUS laptops yet. I'm using a similar laptop model Boardview. (UX333FN REV2.0)

                  I feel there might be something wrong with these coil impedance values yet the voltage values go normal.


                  COIL = VOLTAGES (adapter powered) = IMPEDANCE TO GND (off and unplugged)

                  +VCCSA = 1.0V = 22ohm
                  +VCCCORE1 = 0.8V = 3.5ohm
                  +VCCCORE2 = 0.8V = 3.5ohm
                  +1.05VSUS = 1.05V...
                  06-26-2024, 11:44 AM
                • Nagy Daniel
                  Lowest possible resistance on laptop motherboard rail - Guide Table request
                  by Nagy Daniel
                  Hi, I'm Daniel, and I'm new to the world of repairing motherboards.

                  I would like to create a table, or more likely a guideline about the voltage rails and their possible resistance rail.

                  I know that the motherboard design has a very big depend on the rail's resistance, but I would like to know what is the smallest value for a rail that can be acceptable. For example, I heard that some new gaming motherboards can have 0,5 Ohm resistance on the GPU rail, but on an older type, it could be a sign of a shorted GPU rail.

                  So, I generated a table with AI so I can...
                  03-04-2025, 08:24 AM
                • howardc64
                  A1312 (27” iMac 2009-2011) A1407 (Thunderbolt Display) A1316 (Cinema Display) Display Black Screen Repair
                  by howardc64
                  Problem

                  This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached....
                  08-04-2024, 10:36 PM
                • TimSinger
                  MacBook Pro M4 16" A3403 on the table with water damage
                  by TimSinger
                  Hi guys,
                  I have a MacBook Pro M4 16" A3403 on the table with water damage. I allready found the problem within a bad cap. As far as my researh went, I couldn't find the schematics and boardview for this MacBook model. They seem not to be released now. So my question is if anybody has a working A3403 on the table and could tell me, which specification this capasator has?
                  I attached a photo of the missing cap. It's on the bottom side of the logicbard.

                  I am very thankful for your replys.
                  Thanks in advanced and best regards from Hamburg Germany...
                  07-13-2025, 11:12 AM
                • wichzen
                  Casper c510 mother board code 08N1-18Y4Y00 Rev 2.2 KBC required
                  by wichzen
                  Casper c510 mother board code 08N1-18Y4Y00 Rev 2.2 KBC required Can someone please share?
                  07-28-2025, 05:29 AM
                • Loading...
                • No more items.
                Working...