I bought a 865G barebone for a steal (HK$680), but the motherboard is full of Asiacon crap caps. I am planning to replace all that crap with something better, should I replace the 470uF caps too? or should I leave those alone and just replace the 1000uF or higher caps?
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Re: Does anyone here encountered blown 470uF caps before?
I replace them too - as there are usually only a few. -
Re: Does anyone here encountered blown 470uF caps before?
In generall, you should replace those caps, wich are supposed to the most stress. This is usually the VRM input and outputcaps, depending on the layout of the board there could me more vrm`s e.g for AGP, PCI Chipset and memory.
Then all places, where higher than normal temperatures woulkd occure. This is usually near the vrm, near the chipset, near any bigger mosfet etc.
If this is done, the result should be ok, if th those caps are not the worst badcaps. To be more specific, i would replace all ultra low esr caps, e.g all crap caps wich are supposed to have superconductible elektrolyt, meaning there could be water in them. In most boards, there are not mutch caps below 1000uf, so i thingk in most cases it should be ok to leave them there. But if there are important units, like SATA or IDE controler, i would may be replace those caps near them too, as problems there would be very nasty (datacorruption).
To make the whole story short, i would only replace those caps, if it would be my rig and if i want the best possible safety and a feeling of some heavy overengineering.
In any other cases, i would only replace all caps equall or greater than 1000uf.Comment
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Re: Does anyone here encountered blown 470uF caps before?
There are 16 470uF caps on my motherboard, 1 470uF costs me HK$0.8Originally posted by Rainbow
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Re: Does anyone here encountered blown 470uF caps before?
Well, if none of them appear bad, they might last a while. The question is how long that while will be.Comment
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Re: Does anyone here encountered blown 470uF caps before?
i've pulled pulled off leaky capacitors as low as 10ufComment
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Hey guys, bit stumped with this laptop after replacing 2 blown components i.e., MP86493, MP2979A.
To begin with, this laptop was dead-dead.
Now with replaced (visibly) blown components, i do get some progress; after connecting battery or main cable;- am getting white power led
- 5-long-flashes on CAPS Lock and NUM lock
- then, fan full speed
- CPU heats up some (smaller die PCH, does not)
- always constant black screen no matter what's tried
- no USB recognition
- no HDMI output
I tried... -
Hey
I got a short on 3 pins of the PCI-E gold connector for 12V.
I see a few caps near the top right (near main power connector) that look blown, one is showing a short across it to GND.
Unforunately I don't have a schematic or board view for it (EVGA GTX 1070 FTW 8GB).
Due to the large number of caps there, I think it may just be decoupling.
Any ideas on figuring out the cap values? There also isn't any reference numbers for the caps on the silkscreen. -
Hello everyone I have a question. I have a laptop and his schematic. Can anyone tell me how to measure or any way to understand specific of caps so i can buy new one?
Also in case how can I understand if some caps of some dead Mobo i have, are ok to be replaced in my new motherboard which im trying to fix?
Thank you! -
Howdy folks,
I have an Optiplex GX260 that blew a couple of those troublesome Nichicon HM series (ultra low ESR) electrolytic capacitors. Because said caps are obsolete, they are pretty much impossible to find on the market; I did find a listing for some but I believe they are counterfeit. I feel the easiest thing to do would be to replace all the blown caps with polymer ones. I am by no means an expert in electronics, and I've found a fair bit of conflicting information, so any guidance or confirmation would be greatly appreciated. While from a practical standpoint it's not worth... -
It's feeling like this board has a case of badcaps, instability and reboots - and not wanting to necro a a very old thread, it seems the 680uF 4V are highly suspect.
I don't really want to blanket recap everything, but maybe the others around that area could do with being changed?
Equipment: I have a temperature controlled soldering station, read the bit where it says set to 400F, don't think I would have gone that high without reading that.
Spring plunger solder sucker, and some desolder braid... and a bit of good old leaded 60/40.
PS. Additional diagnostic,...
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