Help. Well first off I'm new at the cap replacment thing. I can do and I have do it for 2 motherboards and everything worked out fine. I have a lot of motherboards with what I believe to be cap problems and I will be contacting you guys to discuss purchasing so of your cap kits but what I want to know is how can I truely be sure that the cap is bad. These mobos have a lot of caps and I dont want to replace all of them. That would take forever. Other that the obvious simptoms and visuals how can I be sure how many and which caps are bad. I do have some electronic tools which I dont know really how to use a Tektronix tds 220 scope and a Fluke 867b Graphical MM and several other DMM's. Can these help me point out the baddies?
Help. I'm a newbie.
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First of all, I would recommend replacing all caps 1000uF and up, even if you don't think they're bad. If others on the board of same brand and value have gone bad, it's just a matter of time for the rest. Replacing all will eliminate more headaches and aggrivation down the road! It really doesn't take too long to remove and replace a cap, far less than it would take to rip the system down again to correct oversights and goofs...
Honestly, I only break out the oscilloscope when I get a 'tough dog' repair. This is a board that I can't seem to get functioning again by simple methods. If you recap your board and it is still acting funny, thats when you want to get your scope and meters out to check for ripple and other abnormalities.
To be sure of bad cap problems, well if they're bulged and leaking gunk, you can be 100% sure that caps are your troubles. Let us know what boards you are working with, some are known for bad caps and won't show physical faults. Knowing the board might help....
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kc8adu : server boards!!!! which ones? i nearly bought an old x series.Comment
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Re: Help. I'm a newbie.
Since it's the only mention I see of the DFI CB61's, I have to ask if anyone knows for certain whether they were confirmed, affected by the capacitor plague. I'm close to doing a recap on a CB61, which is used in a Gannomat station, and the PSU, while a 250W, badged only as "KM" "Made in Korea", is equipped with all Nichicon's, and doesn't have a single bloated cap. But every single 8mm cap on the board is toast, even the lonely, 16V cap by the ISA slots!Presonus Audiobox USB, Schiit Magni 3, Sony MDR-V700Comment
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Re: Help. I'm a newbie.
I dont need to start a new thread about a board, which relates to only a single post on the entire forum. And since his query as to those specific boards did not get answered, it made sense to just being it up, again in the same thread. I know TC works hard to keep the forums streamlined.Presonus Audiobox USB, Schiit Magni 3, Sony MDR-V700Comment
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