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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Ontario
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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Hi all, last week I jumped into a thread I thought was for my TV model but it turns out the board in question was a different part number. I was asked to provide the pictures of my board in my own thread so here goes.
My TV will not turn on, when I push power button or use remote nothing happens, no error code no blinking lights. I took the back cover off and found the main fuse had blown, tried replacing it and as soon as I plugged it back in the new fuse blew again. Following the previous thread I tested the bridge rectifier and it did not pass the test. Using a multimeter on OHM setting I tested points one and 2 on the rectifier and with the leads one way I got no reading and when reversed i got a reading. On points 3 and 4 i get a reading both way the multimeter leads are connected. Are there any other things that I should check or would the bridge rectifier be enough to cause the main fuse to blow? I have attached pictures of both the front and back of the board and the part number. Any assistance is greatly appreciated Paul |
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#2 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 14,683
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I seem to remember someone on this forum reporting exactly the same issue with a 32" Toshiba. It turned out to be the surge suppressor TVS1 which had failed.
You can temporarily remove it and test the TV without it before ordering a replacement to see if it is at fault. Without it, the TV won't have much protection from mains surges, but it will be fine for a 5 minute test.
__________________
** Begin Signature ** I fix TVs and electronics as a hobby and to save nice things from the dump. 40 LCD TVs, 4 monitors, 13 plasma TVs, and a 6.1 system! Free service manuals database: http://www.toms-service-manuals.com/ - Have a manual? Need a manual? Please PM me. I have successfully fixed (from best --> worst build quality): 3 Panasonic Plasmas, 1 Yamaha HTS, 1 NEC Plasma, 2 Sharp LCDs, 2 Toshiba LCDs, 5 Philips Plasma/LCD, 1 Hitachi Plasma, 5 LG LCD/Plasma, 10 Samsung LCD/Plasma, 1 Thomson Plasma, 1 Atec LCD, 1 Hanspree LCD, 1 Xerox LCD, 1 Harwa LCD, 2 Proview LCD, 2 Hyundai LCD, 1 "Onn" LCD, 1 Dell LCD, 1 iiyama LCD, 1 Logik LCD, 5 Bush LCD, 10 Vestel LCDs [Please do not PM me for help: I am a busy student, and we prefer input from all sides on this forum.] Last edited by tom66; 05-25-2012 at 04:55 PM.. |
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#3 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,234
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It was this thread: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20565
That Model has shorted TVS. I asked Oconnorp to post new thread since his TV is not the same model or boards. @Oconnorp, please post straight shot pictures of the boards with good lights, I can hardly see anything on the pictures, thanks.
__________________
Never stop learning Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#4 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Ontario
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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sorry thought these posted over the weekend. Not sure what happened. Here are the pictures front and back. Hopefully better than the other ones
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#5 |
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Slow Learner
Join Date: Dec 2010
City & State: Lancashire UK
Posts: 4,657
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On the back of the board - primary side there is a largish 8 legged component
Looks damaged in the picture - is it? Has it got a part number on it that yu can read. |
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#6 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 14,683
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Use your multimeter on the 200 ohm range to check this device TVS1. You should see no change when probing it if it is good. Do this with the TV unplugged.
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#7 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Ontario
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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The 8 legged creature looks ok to me, must be a shadow in the picture. I probed the tvs1 as indicated in your picture it reads 0.6 steady when I hold the probes on it.
Thanks |
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#8 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,234
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0.6 Ohm? That sound like the same problem with the other Toshiba on that thread you were asking the question, the TVS was shorted out. You can remove it, put in the new fuse to test, the TV should come on now
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#9 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2011
City & State: US Midwest
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz (allegedly)
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 267
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While you can remove it for testing, I would not plan on just leaving it out. It is part of the surge protection on the power supply. Leaving that part out would leave your TV more susceptible to lightning/surge damage.
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#10 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Ontario
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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Thanks guys I will try removing it tomorrow as a test and let you know how I make out.
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#11 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Ontario
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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Removed tvs1 and tv will now power on. Thanks. What is next step?
Thanks again |
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#12 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 14,683
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Quote:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...PCT-ND/2776400 Check the lead diameter (1.3mm max) will fit the hole. |
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#13 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,234
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Or this one from Mouser:
Surge protection: BI-DIRCETIONAL TVS Vishay: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...dcLaMwTMwps%3d Which was used in the other TOSHIBA on another post. I would go with DIGIKEY since they will do USPS shipping at low cost. |
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