and its such a heavy green tint that it's getting annoying..
another thing...:
do you guys remember the mouse cursor tail thingy in windows..?
this LCD does the same thing, but in green.
everything that's moving around gets green ghosting..
Yes check RGB settings.
Also a bad pin or connection through VGA cable can do that.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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I had a video card with a bum out-jack a while back that made everything blue-ish.
Didn't matter if it was CRT or LCD.
Looked like someone got glue or something in some of the pin-holes.
Replaced the connector and now it's fine.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
its not the RGB color setting in the menu. already played around with that.
no problems with the VGA connector either.
VGA cable is also OK (no problems on that Samsung Syncmaster 151BM i repaired in the other thread here)
same green tint with a DVI-D cable.
only thing i could try now are the caps on the video board or (like kc8adu said) try to find the service mode somehow..
found the complete service manual for the 10 19 10
for some reason, the green offset and the green gain were totally off (value 200, while the others were around 120 - 130), giving me the green tint.
i went into the "factory 2" menu and ran the automatic color adjustments as stated in the service manual.
turned the brightness up to 100% and contrast to 80% (factory settings).
then i displayed a fullscreen picture with black and white and went through "auto color" and "auto color1" and finally ran the "color update" menu point.
and voila.. the green tint disappeared after the color update..
for other ppl who maybe find this thread through google:
to get into the service mode/menu on Belinea/Maxdata LCDs:
- put a signal in (doesnt really matter what)
- turn the LCD off
- keep holding the "Select/Auto" switch and press the power button
the LCD then turns on and shows the input signal, but the power LED stays amber (as in standby/no-signal-mode) to indicate that you're in service mode.
with this, you get 2 additional "Factory" menu points in the main menu
Great: without the service menu, the last chance is a color profiling.
Still wondering how it was so out of specs: did the previous owner play a bit with the service menu?
god damn.. i begin to really hate this 10minute edit limit
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okay i just fed this beast with an external power supply (12V).
but this time not only the video board but both boards, as the inverter circuit is also running off the 12V rail..
suprise..
and i just found an open resistor on the primary side...
edit: i also thought about reworking it to use an external PSU brick, because i have plenty of them lying around and this would keep the heat (which discolored the PSU PCB already) out of the LCD..
but i'm still trying to fix it.. just to have a little challenge
Hi Scenic,
Was doing a search for the 1PI01 power supply and found your post here at badcaps. On the plug that joins the primary and secondary boards, which pins are for the 12V power? I am taking a guess (when looking at it) lower left is + and lower center is - , am I correct in this assumption?
I also found the same resistor open upon testing with a DMM, but would rather go the 12V PS option instead.
IIRC, the pins had markings on the solder side, but i'm not sure about that now without opening it up again.
well.. i just removed one cap (the silver polys in the pics above ; they're all in parallel) and soldered wires in there. those are my 12V-in wires going to a DC jack i put in there using an aluminum plate screwed in the empty space where the AC socket used to be. (removed all the now "unnecessary" components of the fsp psu)
so you can basically just desolder one of those caps, solder 2 wires in there (polarity! darker (striped) half is negative) and viola: your 12V input
anyways... the 1.75 Amp rating printed on the PCB seems to be the output for the _CCFL inverter only_!
in the datasheet/service manual of this monitor (still have it somewhere) it says that the maximum output is 12V 3,25A, which seems to be matching the Fortron model naming scheme..:
FSP035 ... -> about 35Watt ... 12V * 3.25A = 39W (total maximum the psu can do.. probably not for too long ..)
while the nominal 12V * 3A = 36W. pretty much matches up the model name.
i'm using a power brick i forgot where i got it from.
Linearity Electronics LAD4212CBQ (12V 3.75A ... recapped of course )
just gets hand-warm, at full brightness a bit more..
so nothing to worry about.. (especially since it's not inside the LCD anymore )
i'll try to take it apart again in a few days because my DC socket thingy got kinda flaky...
i'll take pics then just to make sure..
IIRC, the pins had markings on the solder side, but i'm not sure about that now without opening it up again.
well.. i just removed one cap (the silver polys in the pics above ; they're all in parallel) and soldered wires in there. those are my 12V-in wires going to a DC jack i put in there using an aluminum plate screwed in the empty space where the AC socket used to be. (removed all the now "unnecessary" components of the fsp psu)
so you can basically just desolder one of those caps, solder 2 wires in there (polarity! darker (striped) half is negative) and viola: your 12V input
anyways... the 1.75 Amp rating printed on the PCB seems to be the output for the _CCFL inverter only_!
in the datasheet/service manual of this monitor (still have it somewhere) it says that the maximum output is 12V 3,25A, which seems to be matching the Fortron model naming scheme..:
FSP035 ... -> about 35Watt ... 12V * 3.25A = 39W (total maximum the psu can do.. probably not for too long ..)
while the nominal 12V * 3A = 36W. pretty much matches up the model name.
i'm using a power brick i forgot where i got it from.
Linearity Electronics LAD4212CBQ (12V 3.75A ... recapped of course )
just gets hand-warm, at full brightness a bit more..
so nothing to worry about.. (especially since it's not inside the LCD anymore )
i'll try to take it apart again in a few days because my DC socket thingy got kinda flaky...
i'll take pics then just to make sure..
I'd like to see that pics, as I am about to do a similar modification to a 18" LCD. I have all figured out, and I'm just waiting for some space at the workbench to do the mod. I guess it is better for the unit to be that way, as you take a lot of heat out of the tight space in there. Ironically, when I receive LCDs, I prefer them with an internal PSU because so far they had been more easy to repair..... mostly recap jobs, some bridge rectifiers, and things like that. When they have external bricks, they have blown ICs, shorted transistors, and more complicated things for me .....
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
Service manual is probably the more correct one [closer to design reference board] and they switched to 330uF due to availability or cost issues during production.
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Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
Cool. Pretty much exactly 3 years after I fixed it, it decided to shoot itself in the head
Was working fine when I left the room to do other stuff, but when i came back it was powercycling (turns on, split-second backlight, completely off (external power brick short circuit protection), repeat), with smoke coming out of the top vents. Greeaaaaaaat -.-
One of the inverter transistors/MOSFETs (tiny SMD ones on the solder side) nuked itself. Possibly thermal runaway (?!)
I've replaced it with another 19" LCD for the time being till I can take a closer look at the Belinea. Kind of busy at the moment.
I didn't really know how long ago I last worked on this thing.. seemed like a year or so, but not 3
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