Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Recheck that. A 5 Amp fuse should read much less than an ohm. Actually lead and contact resistance may increase the reading to about .5 ohm.
It's not a diode. It may be a zero ohm jumper, or it might be a fuse with a 'D' current rating.
Excellent!!! I had tried identifying it and found a notice from the same vendor stating the datasheet was confidential.
Actually, I suggest leapfrogging a number of preliminary tests and trying a functional test. Hook up the inverter, CCFLS, etc. but leave the back off the TV so you can see the back of the panel. There are usually a number of openings so you can see if the backlights turn on briefly. Plug in the TV and if necessary hit the power button so the standby led goes off. Was there a brief flash of light from teh back of the panel (working in a dimly lit room will help). The flash may be very brief, many inverters are set up with a very brief (much less than a second) on period if a fault occurs.
If there was no flash, make the following readings in a well lit room. You don't want to short out anything with a probe. You will be reading DC voltage. (Top refers toward the top of the picture of the inverter; it's probably rotated in the TV). TV plugged in to power, standby light off.
1. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 1 of CN1
2. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F1
3. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F2
4. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F3
5. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 20 of the LX1692
6. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 6 of the LX1692
If you DID see a brief flash, the odds are one of the inverter transformers has shorted turns. I would expect all secondaries match to within a percent or two. Fortunately, these are easy to measure. The transformer pins are numbered in a counterclockwise pattern. Pin 1 is marked by the white dot, which coincidentally corresponds to the number on the pc board. Pins 1 and 8 are the ends of one secondary; pins 4 and 5 are the other secondary. Pins 2 and 7 are one primary, pins 3 and 6 the other. If I recall correctly, the resistance of the secondaries are about 900 ohms. Measure them all, record the numbers. You are looking for one which is slightly (more than 2%) different. Of course, do this with the TV unplugged. We don't like 1000 volt surprises!
PlainBill
Recheck that. A 5 Amp fuse should read much less than an ohm. Actually lead and contact resistance may increase the reading to about .5 ohm.
It's not a diode. It may be a zero ohm jumper, or it might be a fuse with a 'D' current rating.
Excellent!!! I had tried identifying it and found a notice from the same vendor stating the datasheet was confidential.
Actually, I suggest leapfrogging a number of preliminary tests and trying a functional test. Hook up the inverter, CCFLS, etc. but leave the back off the TV so you can see the back of the panel. There are usually a number of openings so you can see if the backlights turn on briefly. Plug in the TV and if necessary hit the power button so the standby led goes off. Was there a brief flash of light from teh back of the panel (working in a dimly lit room will help). The flash may be very brief, many inverters are set up with a very brief (much less than a second) on period if a fault occurs.
If there was no flash, make the following readings in a well lit room. You don't want to short out anything with a probe. You will be reading DC voltage. (Top refers toward the top of the picture of the inverter; it's probably rotated in the TV). TV plugged in to power, standby light off.
1. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 1 of CN1
2. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F1
3. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F2
4. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to the top of F3
5. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 20 of the LX1692
6. From pin 7 of CN1 (Gnd) to pin 6 of the LX1692
If you DID see a brief flash, the odds are one of the inverter transformers has shorted turns. I would expect all secondaries match to within a percent or two. Fortunately, these are easy to measure. The transformer pins are numbered in a counterclockwise pattern. Pin 1 is marked by the white dot, which coincidentally corresponds to the number on the pc board. Pins 1 and 8 are the ends of one secondary; pins 4 and 5 are the other secondary. Pins 2 and 7 are one primary, pins 3 and 6 the other. If I recall correctly, the resistance of the secondaries are about 900 ohms. Measure them all, record the numbers. You are looking for one which is slightly (more than 2%) different. Of course, do this with the TV unplugged. We don't like 1000 volt surprises!
PlainBill
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