Re: ps50q97HD still clicking after reflowing q801 & 802, any ideas?
Wow this site needs the ability to edit posts:
now update; TV is totally shot with faulty bufferboards & y-sustain missing caps and a MOSFET :S
still I wouldnt mind getting the PSU back in opperation but I dont fancy transplanting all known working MOSFET's from my 42 to the 50 PSU
reidy-
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Last Activity: 10-25-2010, 10:03 AM
Joined: 07-29-2010
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Re: ps50q97HD still clicking after reflowing q801 & 802, any ideas?
well here's a strange one...
by the looks of it there is a 42" PSU powering the TV inplace of a 50" PSU despite the label on the rectifier heatsink suggesting otherwise.
I transplanted my current PSU from my owrking 42" plasma to the AV board which powered up instantly (as expected) with the relay clicking once, then about 5 secounds later a nice little tune comes from the TV suggesting that its on.
from what I can see visually
50"...Leave a comment:
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ps50q97HD still clicking after reflowing q801 & 802, any ideas?
Hi, I have taken in a 50" sammy plasma with the default clicking sound, upon inspection the q801 & 802 transistors legs were browned and the solder joints cracked so I reflowed them.
the fault reamins, I havnt tested for voltages yet but was wondering where to start, should I disconnect all sub board bar the main AV board and try power it up and see if it still trips out?
I have read somewhere that the sub 2 board on the PSU can fail what am I checking for? I grabbed a service manual for the TV but it wasnt much use with a very basic PSU trouble shooting... -
Re: Samsung LN-S3251D Black Screen
most probably a faulty inverter, test the impedances across the pins of the inverters and look for one that doesnt have the same impedance as the rest of the pack (not to say you couldnt have 2 faulty inverters)Leave a comment:
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backlight on, sound no picture backlight responds to video input = t-con?
as the title states before I replace this board the following symptoms I believe refer to a faulty T-con
sound present
backlight on
No change in the screen other than lightening / dimming of the backlight when an imput is applied
I checked the pico fuse on the T-con and its at 0 ohm so check's ok
although I havnt tested that there is power going to the board it should be ok, maybee I'll test it before I invest in a replacement.
its only £15 after all -
Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Quick message off my iPhone
TV works I owe you several beers Bill, top bloke!Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Right well I'm glad you commented upon this (F2 fuse) because I had assumed it was a diode and so when I measure a very large impedance I didnt think twice about it (rather stupid in hindsight)
so what do you think? just flat out bridging it (I dont have any micro fuses) or I might just vertically stitch a full size onto it for testing.
I have never come accross a 'letter based fused rating systems could you explain what they refer to I tried to see if the internet could elborate but cant seem to find anything....Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Hi the previous post were only 5 mins apart I must have started writing mine as you posted yours so I completely missed it
There are 3 fuse positions f1-3
f1 reads & f3 give a 20 ohm reading so test good.
F2 however doesn't actually have a fuse across it and there is just a diode in between the two pins where the fuse should be.
right, the CCL controllers full IC code is: MSC 1692IPW 0549B
the schematic for the controller is located here;
...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
measured pins 11,12,13,14
pin 11 (NC) -0v
pin 12 (B/L on/off) 5.3v
pin 13 (ADIM) 3.1v
pin 14 (PWM) 5v
sorry about the large influx of data&posts (can't edit) I am pretty much past the point at which I know what I am doing, so just hoping if I pile through enough data you might be able to spot something out of place.
what does NC ADIM & PWM stand for? I was under the impression that the back light control sat at 3.3v to activate?Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
scrap that its ultra high impedance because of the actual composition of the tube...
non of the inverters stand out impedance wise, and I did quite a thorough search earlier for a wiring schematic no such luck =/
I might have to end up buying one of these I found one in Japan very cheap and can always flog these inverts on ebayLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
The symptoms do not change when the inverter board was added.
Yeah don't bother going mad time wise however I did a couple more measurements and non of the inverters are outputting any voltage(measured the top clips), but the capacitors located at the bottom of the board are charged to 24v as supplied by the power board.
I measured the impedance from the 8 clips of the TV that go into the inverter board top and all of them measured as an open circuit is this normal?
could the physical backlite...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
best image quality I could get really, tried using a rather expensive SLR but it ended up even worse
[url]http://img844.*************/img844/7897/p1010002x.jpg[/url]
[url]http://img801.*************/img801/7594/p1010003p.jpg[/url]
I have sent an email to the inverter manufacturers requesting data but I have gone through every one and there all relatively similar nothing more than +/- 5% for impedances
I also noticed that one of the inverters had been changed (had a different code on it)...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Thanks very much guys we have solved half the problem
but it might come back to haunt us when the inverter gets fixed and starts drawing power.
as it stands the TV works just with no backlight, have tried the TV input (saw static back ground) and also the HDMI input and heard my xbox 360 making game related noises.
the TV starts up and every time the front LED flashes 4 times with a similar 1s time span then finally goes off indicating the TV is working
what should I be looking...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Right this is mad and I cannot for the life of me explain any of this but here goes...
I did what you said but by complete accident had left the TV inverter board unplugged
and got the following results:
voltage: off on
24v ~0v 24.3v
13v ~0v 11.94v
12v ~0v 11.98
5.4v ~0v 5.35v
Now after this I plugged the inverter back in and repeated...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
10min message edit limit forced me to make a new post:
just conducted the 13v test
at standby (however no LED lit) the rail was stable at 12v
as soon as the power button was pressed the rails tended to 0vLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Thanks alot PlainBill that's the kind of insight you pay for!!!
did a bit more testing and got some strange results.
If I am correct I think standby is at 5v and when the set is turned on it rises to 6v or is it vice versa?
Well on standby when the solid red light is on the standby (pin2) is at 6v stable then when the power button is pressed there is no active change and it remains at 6v
the 5.4v rail was also a bit strange in the sense that at powering up at the wall socket the front...Last edited by reidy-; 07-30-2010, 06:36 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Be that as it may, that's how its operating :S
I could check some more voltages tomorrow morning if you wish i.e. the 13v & 4.5v rails. I will also check pin 2 on the bottom right of page 2 which will find out if its in standby or not.
is this unusual? I have seen references of other people seeing 24v at standby albeit its a different monitor they talk about the 24v source being hand in hand with the 5.3v stand by. maybe it doesn't apply to this case I am not sure
[url]https://www.badcaps.n...Leave a comment:
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Samsung LE32S73BDX No power not faulty caps
Hi, I have the above TV with a BN96-03775A power supply schematic here:
The symptoms are; when you apply power to the TV the LED goes solid red and does nothing else (a small whine noticed near the large transformer) when any other input is applied i.e. change channel the front LED just flashes on and off repeatedly
I have don a small amount of testing and have confirmed all the large capacitors to be in good condition (+/- 10%) and no IC's have been visibly burned.
when I tested the 24V rail on standby it is solid at roughly 24.3v...
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