Cadiman, could you please elaborate on your method for removing the IC? I cannot seem to get any of the solder off, i have clipped the pins to board level and tried braid and desoldering pump without success. Do you recommend using a heat gun? Thanks in advance :-)
Hello to all you great people trying to help others. I don't know if this is the spot to post a question but here goes. i have an lg 50pq60 that when you press the on button goes immediately into power cycling. i have tested the PS and all is well even AC_DET is perfect 5v. I then disconnected the y-sus connector and the relay on the PS clicks once and all voltages are within range from the PS output terminals. I found a blown fuse on the y-sus board which was the one circled in green and temporarily repaired. Same problem as the start though. If I dissconnect the y-sus from the buffer the same relay cycling occurs. Also with the x-sus board disconnected too. But when i disconnect the connector circled in blue, with all the others connected the y-sus board energizes and emits a buzzing sound and begins to get hot in the areas circled in red. Which leads me to believe the y-sus board has a short. Oddly enough when i unplug the connector circled black, with everything else plugged in, the relay clicks once on power up but there is no heat or noise from any board? No picture at all during all tests.I would appreciate it greatly if someone could focus my energy on the right board to fix. I am thinking all is bad with y-sus board and it is causing all the problems. I am skilled but new to TV repair and wish to further my skills and not slap a FRU into it and hope for the best. I thank all for the vast amount of literature this site contains! It is a valuable resource to all who wish to understand things and learn to fix things again.
I could use some help the only board i din,t change was the y so i bought one but before i put it in i put the grd to vs and it buzzed i don,t think it should do that is that a short and if so how do i find it John
Hi I wonder if anyone might be able to steer me in the right direction. I have this Samsung UE46ES8000 TV and it went bang during use. The main fuse on the PSU board is open. I've checked every diode/mosfet/transistor I can see and nothing appears to be short to cause the fuse to go. The DC output of the bridge rectifier is not short either. I've seen online that some of these models are known for having their PFC mosfet or other mosfets shorting and blowing the fuse but i'm not seeing that here. If anyone aware of these models having any issues to cause this? I'm reluctant to just replace the...
I found a project in the electronics trash yesterday. A nice Argon SA1 audio amp with some electrical issue. Took it apart and saw that the 4A250V fuse was blown so started lifting components to find the short. Eventually got to two MOSFETs (model FTA14N50C) that are shorted and when i took them out the short was gone.
Now i didn't have any replacements of the same model of course but i found a couple with pretty similar spec i thought (K10A60D & K12A50D) and put them in. Also replaced the blown fuse with a 3.5A250V one. Checked another time for short circuit and plugged it in....
Samsung UN55ES7003
made house call.
red power led comes on, blinks twice, no display, no backlight, relay clicks, repeat.
psu has self test feature.
disconnected from mainboard.
determined PSU ok BL ok.
suspect mainboard.
disconnecting tcon has no change on operation.
markings on mainboard:
I'm looking for a extreme high current short killer solution for a reasonable cost.
I have an LGA1700 motherboard (ASUS PRIME Z790-P WiFi) where I exchanged the LGA socket already 3 times, and every time after the socket exchange I get a short of power supply lines VCORE (V variable) and VCCIN_AUX (1.8V).
After taking off the socket, the shorts dissappear again.
The soldermask on the socket is already partially demaged from the heat, so I have reconstructed the soldermask by manually painting the missing soldermask parts with a very small top of a...
Hello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping...
Comment