I am changing a bunch of capacitors on a power board in my 47pfl7403d/f7 & cannot budge any solder. I've tried adding new solder with no luck. My Hako iron is at 750. Thanks for any help.
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Re: Can't Melt Solder on Power Board
A small tip don´t have enough power to heat a big surface . Do you have a heat gun ? if so you must heat the whole area before using the iron . Then put some new lead solder to make it easier . -
Re: Can't Melt Solder on Power Board
Dont solder with a heatgun , you might destroy other parts.
You need a good solder iron. 85W solder iron is more then enough to desolder capacitors.
You probably need a bigger tip otherwise the board will take all the heat and the solder wont melt....I only repair Panasonic plasma tv's! Currently owning a TX-P55VT50 and still searching for a ZT60!
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Re: Can't Melt Solder on Power Board
try adding flux . what caps are they ? like are they through hole ?
fit larger tip . 2 or 3mm i think .Last edited by petehall347; 05-01-2018, 05:19 PM.Comment
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Re: Can't Melt Solder on Power Board
I got the solder to melt.... I needed to reset the Hako unit & was fine. Thanks for the replies.Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
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Hi everyone,
I’m trying to remove a component from a 2021 MacBook logic board, but I’m having trouble.
https://www.electronicsdatasheets.co...s/tlv70733pdqn
I’m using hot air at 480 °C with full airflow and good flux, but the solder paste is not melting.
I know there’s a lot of thermal dissipation from the board, and I suspect the copper planes are absorbing most of the heat.
Do you have any tips for this kind of board? Would a preheater help?
Thanks in advance!
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Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)
- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
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This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as...
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