Re: Samsung UE32EH5000 backlight issue fix
Even as a beginner, I didn't crack a single screen and haven't had any unfortunate events so far. Mentally prepared is right, because the first time doing I was very careful and mindful throughout the whole procedure, then gaining more and more experience and fixing more and more of them, I gradually started doing it faster and faster, applying maybe a little bit more "force" with each one I did
Panels ARE fragile indeed and the bigger the TV is, the harder the task, but unless you mess really bad, you should be able to get it out of there in one go and in one piece. They're not THAT paper-thin. Some tips if you haven't done this before, though some may vary depending on the TV:
-once you get the bezel off, you'll want to release the buffer(s) board(s) so they hang freely off the edge. Most just pop off with a bit of encouraging, but check fro screws first (though I've never encountered screwed-on buffers on Sammies so far). You don't want the buffers to get left behind once you try pulling the panel away because they can strain the COF (chip-on-flex) cables (the ones running from the buffer to the panel).
-remove the panel alongwith the supporting frame underneath it, instead of doing them separately. This way, when you place the panel down, it will be kept some distance away from the surface you're laying it on and stop dust and dirt from contacting the underside. The frame is held in place with clips on all sides. Be extra careful around the ones at the bottom because they're right underneath the COF cables and if you try using a tool like a screwdriver to release them, there's a possibility it will slip and poke a hole right through the COF! VERY bad and unlucky scenario.
-lastly, the reflector sheets under the panel. This is where you no longer have to worry about doing surgical work, since the panel is off. Grab and remove all the reflectors at the same time and lay them flat in that order. Don't pull them out one by one - no need to go through all that trouble, plus you risk getting gunk stuck in between them, which often happens no matter how careful you think you are. They have a nasty habit of slipping and sliding around....not much advice I can give you here other than press them flat against each other to keep as much air from getting between as possible.
Another thing about reusing LEDs: unless you have fairly good soldering skills and a good soldering iron/hot-air station, it's not going to be easy to pull LEDs off of a good strip without destroying them - I can tell you that much. They melt very easily, especially since they'd have to undergo TWO rounds of soldering: one to remove them from the good strip and the other to hopefully solder them back onto the faulty one. Of course, there's the infamous "stacking method" which involves chopping an entire working portion from a good strip and placing it on top of the dead LED with jumper wires, but I don't really favor that and don't regard it as particularly professional either.....go ahead and hate on me Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Even as a beginner, I didn't crack a single screen and haven't had any unfortunate events so far. Mentally prepared is right, because the first time doing I was very careful and mindful throughout the whole procedure, then gaining more and more experience and fixing more and more of them, I gradually started doing it faster and faster, applying maybe a little bit more "force" with each one I did
Panels ARE fragile indeed and the bigger the TV is, the harder the task, but unless you mess really bad, you should be able to get it out of there in one go and in one piece. They're not THAT paper-thin. Some tips if you haven't done this before, though some may vary depending on the TV:
-once you get the bezel off, you'll want to release the buffer(s) board(s) so they hang freely off the edge. Most just pop off with a bit of encouraging, but check fro screws first (though I've never encountered screwed-on buffers on Sammies so far). You don't want the buffers to get left behind once you try pulling the panel away because they can strain the COF (chip-on-flex) cables (the ones running from the buffer to the panel).
-remove the panel alongwith the supporting frame underneath it, instead of doing them separately. This way, when you place the panel down, it will be kept some distance away from the surface you're laying it on and stop dust and dirt from contacting the underside. The frame is held in place with clips on all sides. Be extra careful around the ones at the bottom because they're right underneath the COF cables and if you try using a tool like a screwdriver to release them, there's a possibility it will slip and poke a hole right through the COF! VERY bad and unlucky scenario.
-lastly, the reflector sheets under the panel. This is where you no longer have to worry about doing surgical work, since the panel is off. Grab and remove all the reflectors at the same time and lay them flat in that order. Don't pull them out one by one - no need to go through all that trouble, plus you risk getting gunk stuck in between them, which often happens no matter how careful you think you are. They have a nasty habit of slipping and sliding around....not much advice I can give you here other than press them flat against each other to keep as much air from getting between as possible.
Another thing about reusing LEDs: unless you have fairly good soldering skills and a good soldering iron/hot-air station, it's not going to be easy to pull LEDs off of a good strip without destroying them - I can tell you that much. They melt very easily, especially since they'd have to undergo TWO rounds of soldering: one to remove them from the good strip and the other to hopefully solder them back onto the faulty one. Of course, there's the infamous "stacking method" which involves chopping an entire working portion from a good strip and placing it on top of the dead LED with jumper wires, but I don't really favor that and don't regard it as particularly professional either.....go ahead and hate on me
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
No external leak or bulge and positive leg cut as in the first pictures.
Comment