It does but a continuity test between QP804 and each side of it should determine if my eyes are playing tricks, but it looks burnt and separated. Fixable in any case though.
I did a connectivity test for almost everything i soldered and it is fine.
Only dp804...the 2 right pins seams to be on the same "network" and so are connected together.
Here are some more pictures.
But both qp are soldered correctly
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...0&d=1464373831
QP804 is driven by the ICP801 (2A20118B), you you need to find the spec sheet of that IC to get the pin out and then verify that it is getting the VCC between VCC pin and GND pin.
Looking at the soldering on the board I believe you will have great difficulty completing a successful repair and it may be best to look for a replacement board. The smd devices are not the easiest things to solder and does take practice.
Finally 1 pin has not been soldered correctly and had no contact from the IC !
I resoldered this pin and the T is working
But the front glass cracked when I lift it from the floor so now it is completly broken !!
I am currently trying to repair one of these power supply pcbs in a Samsung PS59D550C1KXXU.
The set came to me dead with fuse F801S blown and QP802/QP804 shorted.
I have replaced the fuse like for like and the transistors 6R190C6 with 20N60C3.
I now have life in the set but it will not switch on. I can hear a relay click and an ever so slight sizzle from the power supply. My PFC voltage is now 387.8v.
If I disconnect all other boards from the power supply and force it on I get the 15v output but no Vs or Va voltages. Not even for a split second at switch on.
Can anyone help me out? I cannot seem to find a replacement PSU new or second hand.
With everything hooked up do you briefly get VS Va when you push power button?
In fact, I ordered a repair kit (lot of Surface mount resistance, cap et transitors) rem placed them and it worked !
I resoldered 1 IC that 1 pin wasn't soldered
As the new poster in post 31 has the same power supply we can still help/advise him in this thread genius312 im glad the repair kit fixed your problem but as you say was a pity the screen was cracked in the end.
genius312 do you happen too have a photo of the parts list/locations etc that came with your repair kit as it may help us out with future repairs/advising other thanks.
Last edited by vinceroger69; 06-08-2017, 01:25 AM.
As the new poster in post 31 has the same power supply we can still help/advise him in this thread genius312 im glad the repair kit fixed your problem but as you say was a pity the screen was cracked in the end.
genius312 do you happen too have a photo of the parts list/locations etc that came with your repair kit as it may help us out with future repairs/advising other thanks.
Ho sorry, I thought you wanted to help me again , I never saw the other post :P
I will try to find the pictude I had, but I thought I posted them earlier in this thread.
Someone told me the problem was my solder :P
Just in case you might be interested, my repaired power supply board is up for sell.
I removed it from de tv before a trashed it.
In fact, i kept a a bunch of board just in case i find the exact same tv that needs a power supply repair !
Just in case you might be interested, my repaired power supply board is up for sell.
I removed it from de tv before a trashed it.
In fact, i kept a a bunch of board just in case i find the exact same tv that needs a power supply repair !
Hi, I sent you a PM about the board. Need one myself, thanks!
I have same symptoms, pn59d550. bn44-00445a
everything connected i have Vs 217V for a second, no Va when it cycles on and off 5 or 6 times.
Then the standby light flashes twice, 5 times....
You should know the voltage written on Capacitor shown "maximum working voltage with" NOT the voltage you will get.
To fix a switching power supply, especially plasma TV, you need to know more than basic knowledge, really hard training and practice
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