Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

Yes, it's long though so multiple pictures.

I checked the cable and get continuity between the pins. I also checked the diodes on there and they look fine. I can't find a schematic anywhere.

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

the first photo, the blue color Ribbon cable ,,, where it connected ???

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

It goes to the main board.

I checked continuity between each pin of the connectors. That all looks good.

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

ok, so which side of the cable got shorted with chassis?

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

Motherboard side cable popped loose and shorted. I'm pretty sure the 21V lines shorted to the adjacent ground. They still are 21V when powered.

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

on first photo on the right side the ribbon you check point of DC IN 21V do you have it ?

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

Yes. I get 21V there

I also get 4.6V at VC-ADJ
and 3.3 at VDDD

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

which parts did you changed at the new MB ?

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

Nothing. I switched the eeprom for the old one but I switched it back. Now it's totally how it was when it was working.

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

okay try thiy hope it work on yours model ....

Changing the display option via a standard RC: Key in the code “062598” directly followed by the “MENU” (or "HOME") button and “XXX” (where XXX is the 3 digit decimal display code as mentioned on the sticker in the set). Make sure to key in all three digits, also the leading zero's. If the above action is successful, the front LED will go out as an indication that the RC sequence was correct. After the display option is changed

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

There are no 3 digit numbers anywhere on the panel. The panel only has a sticker with U24F1XH on it

Only 00001324 and 120229 on a sticker on the board.

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

take look on S.M so you know where the panel code listed

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

I'm sorry, this is literally the only thing on the whole panel

[Diah]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

maybe on the cover label..

any way try this methode too watch if your screen get any effect

1.Turn the power on.2.Enter the service mode.3.Press [FREEZE] button on the remote control unit to initialize the LCD television.4."INITIALIZED" will appear in the upper right of the screen. "INITIALIZED" color will change to green from red when initialization is completed.

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

I tried that a few times when it was working. It didn't fix the problems then. You're probably right about the panel being set wrong.

Unfortunately to get into the service menu you have to go through a bunch of sub menus which I just can't do with it not working. I tried a few times.

I'm betting I either blew the main processor pins or the mosfets on the display and I just don't think it's worth dealing with either. Or I totally messed up some internal programming that just can't be recovered.

Y'all have been super helpful and I'm grateful but I think this might just be a lost cause at this point. I'll keep it around for a few more days in case anyone else has an idea but it might just be a lost cause at this point.

[pyrohmstr]

Re: Phillips 32PFL4507/F7 screaming power board

Ok so I promised an update.

I got the tv working! Long story short I found an open resistor at R1 on the LCD controller board. It went into the voltage regulator and I recognized that as the same part and layout used on the motherboard. Those take 21V directly in so I assumed that one should have 21V too.

I guess they were using a 0 ohm resistor as a fuse. Which is what they seem to do on the mobo too. This is probably common :p but I don't know this stuff like y'all do. Anyway, replaced it with a bit of wire and now it works. I realize that if it ever shorts again it won't be protected but idk, I'm not touching it again... If it burns the place down I'll post back.

I used the eeprom from the old board to take care of the panel code problem.

Anyway, thanks for your help everyone! Not just on this thread but all the other ones that I read. Learned a ton!