Can I save this board?

[bphodges]

I have been trying to fix this board from my Vizio 50 inch plasma. I was successful with another tv, but I have had problems with 5 out of 20 parts replaced. It is probably just my amateur soldering skills, but I haven't been able to get good joints on these parts. No matter start I try, the parts are loose. I have cleaned and scrubbed, used extra flux to no avail. The wife is telling me too trash the tv. I am debating buying a new board ($150ish), but I want to fix this (and I admit save money). Does anyone have an idea of what I should do?

[newtothis]

Re: Can I save this board?

What wattage iron are you using?!

You have lifted the pads so there is no copper to solder to.

You can use wire to jump to the next available spot following the trace but that is some real damage there! Remember though that carbon (The black stuff) is conductive and can cause shorts if left if you attempt to repair.

My advice is to practice and read up on soldering, Get the appropriate tools for the job... You are causing more harm than good.

In the meantime leave repairs out of the equation and practice on boards that are already toast.

Not trying to be horrid but you have a long way to go before attempting component level repairs

[bphodges]

Re: Can I save this board?

60w iron. Thanks for your advice. So I guess I need to order a new board.

[bphodges]

Re: Can I save this board?

Thank you for your time and advice. I do have a lot to learn and practice. 60w iron was used. So I guess I need to order a new board.

[newtothis]

Re: Can I save this board?

60w iron. Thanks for your advice. So I guess I need to order a new board.

TBH I have never seen anyone burn a board like that with an iron! I suppose it is with the repeated attempts at soldering the components with no copper there and would not be like that if the pads were intact.

To lift pads like that was either due to poor removal of components (Pulling etc before the solder was molten) or due to too much heat for prolonged times.

The board can be repaired by using wire jumpers so its not totally scrap.

From looking at your other joints it appears you are not getting the solder molten which has caused poor joints.

What solder are you using? Diameter, Pb/Sn ratio?

[bphodges]

Re: Can I save this board?

It was multiple attempts. Could my solder sicker have caused the pad removal? I am 0.032 rosin core solder from radio shack. Many of the joints came out good and tight, and look pretty clean. I didn't realize the pads were gone so kept trying to solder then in. I guess a better question is not can the board be saved, but do you think it likely that I can save it? Or should I drop the $130 on a board from Shop Jimmy?

[newtothis]

Re: Can I save this board?

Is it a vacuum pen sucker you used? I very much doubt it anyway as the pads are torn at place saying force was exerted in removing components while still soldered in place.

I see a few other solder points that you have done where solder hasn't taken, If the solder doesn't look like a volcano shape remove it and check to see if the pad is still intact.

So remove ALL of your joints you have done and clean up any left over solder with solder wick... Scrape away any carbon and clean all areas with IPA.... Then get some more pics up so we can see the real extent of the damage.

[mariushm]

Re: Can I save this board?

It looks to me like the temperature of your soldering iron was too high, and possibly you've put too much pressure when attempting to solder, therefore damaging the copper around the holes.

For such pcb with holes so big, a temperature of about 350-400C should be enough. I don't know the quality of that Radioshack solder, still it should be very easy to solder on such board... for better results you could buy some liquid flux, add a drop of flux around the lead or hole then warm up component lead and hole with your iron and introduce the solder wire.

Now as for your exact case, it's ugly but looks fixable. Look at the damaged holes and see what copper traces are connected to that hole, the copper is the darker green (in the second picture).
Above the copper it's a layer, a protective film, to prevent copper from oxidizing or cause shorts (as copper oxidizes the resistance of the trace changes and that's bad).

So basically, you can get a flathead screwdriver and very carefully rub (or "scratch") away that thin layer of insulation and expose the copper trace, then with the help of a bit of flux, you can solder a short piece of wire between the copper bit you exposed and the lead or the component.

Here's some old videos (but the information within is still valid) which will teach you how to properly solder and why flux is important:

Pace Worldwide's Basic Soldering Lesson Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...6EC0F1F93C1837

Most relevant parts for you would be 1, 6 and 7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4...3C1837&index=1 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY5M...3C1837&index=6 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgcP...3C1837&index=7

Dave Jones' soldering lessons are also very relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

[usermike9]

Re: Can I save this board?

Invest in a good Hakko Temperature control solder station. Best investment you will ever make if you want to work on electronics. KESTER 24-6337-0027 WIRE SOLDER .031 is the best solder you will find. Do that and follow the advice that has already been listed and you will be in good shape.

Remember heat the component ie: the wire and the pad and feed the solder in. If the connection is clean you will only need to heat it for a moment and the solder will flow right in and look smooth and shiny when it cools. If it is dull and clumped then it is a poor connection and will fail in no time under load or with heat/cold cycles.