Not really sure what to do or what is wrong maybe someone here can help. I was watching it yesterday when the picture all of a sudden washed out. Any help would be great. TIA
Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
Collapse
X
-
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
This looks like an AS15-F gamma IC fault, the symptoms are very common. It is fixable but will require good soldering ability or a board repair service/new board. Can you take the back cover off and get us pictures of the parts inside the TV?Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search. -
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
I'd prefer DSLR if you have one!Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
Ah, this is going to be awkward, but you're going to have to remove that metal plate that everything is mounted to and lift it down a little to expose the T-con board. The T-con board needs to be connected to the main A/V board for the next test (requires a digital multimeter.) The T-con is mounted at the top of the panel, the main A/V is the board with the HDMI and tuner inputs on it.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
Looking at the picturs I can see the T-CON has blue color board so it looks like AUTOPTO T-CON which is famous for bad GAMMA IC.
http://www.shopjimmy.com/media/catal...006936-top.jpg
http://www.shopjimmy.com/philips-996...-con-board.htmNever stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
Ah, this is going to be awkward, but you're going to have to remove that metal plate that everything is mounted to and lift it down a little to expose the T-con board. The T-con board needs to be connected to the main A/V board for the next test (requires a digital multimeter.) The T-con is mounted at the top of the panel, the main A/V is the board with the HDMI and tuner inputs on it.
Looking at the picturs I can see the T-CON has blue color board so it looks like AUTOPTO T-CON which is famous for bad GAMMA IC.
http://www.shopjimmy.com/media/catal...006936-top.jpg
http://www.shopjimmy.com/philips-996...-con-board.htm
Around 30 bucks isnt too badComment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL7422D/37 picture went bad like a switch was flipped
I don't know, I've not worked on one of these before. But you will have to find a way to keep the T-con connected for the test. You can replace the T-con outright but there is the possibility of another issue. You can also undo the connections to the inverter boards (green boards, left & right of TV) altough the TV screen will not be lit up any more.
That board is out of stock so unfortunately would be no good, you would have to get the board repaired or replace the chip yourself. You could also buy another board but there is the risk that the chip will fail again shortly afterwards.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by RauniHello, this is my first post on this forum, and my first attempted to repair a TV.
My Philips 58PUS7805/12 stopped working recently. It is not that old, about 5 years. We were on a trip for a few days and when we came back, it had stopped working out of a blue (Perhaps our house was hit by a lightning strike? Don't know.)
Read from a guide that I should test if the screen shows picture with one of the T-Con cables disconnected. Did that, it showed perfect picture (first on left, later on right side).
Read also that we should test what happens if we... -
by SchwoinHey everyone,
the picture on my philips monitor looks way too bright so that black appears grey and colors also seem too bright.
While i tried to tilt the screen a little bit while it was displaying a picture, i´ve noticed, that there appeared some purple pixels. In the following picture
you can see them on the top half of the photo.
At a certain point during the tilting, the picture looked normal again but as soon as i laid it back down, the purple pixels were gone and the picture was bright again.
... -
by madyoyoHI.
I have a weird problem with an old Philips 37pfl560 TV i put out of storage: the picture have a noticeable yellow hue, and its not caused by the settings (did a factory reset). I've never seen this before. I will try to get a photo with a real camera, with my phone its hard to see because of automatic white balance, but in real live the whites are really yellow.
Anyone have an idea of what can cause this? Can CCFL tubes get "warmer" with time? This tv have several analog inputs,so its nice for retrogaming.... -
Hello,
My Plasma Philips 37inch chassis FTL2.1 does not show picture. It automatically goes into protection mode after 30 seconds (red led blinks at 3Hz)
Is there someone having any symptom like this? How to fix it?
Thanks in advance!08-06-2024, 09:55 PM -
by groomitHi,
I'm having trouble with above mentioned TV. Bought it defect.
Picture was heavily compressed around the horizontal axis. Fiddeled and tried different things (mask clock lines, swap T-Con). But no difference.
Then I identified a heating capacitor on the left hand Signal-PCB (?) below the display. Replaced it by hand soldering. Checked for shorts afterwards. But now the screen stays black.
I can see backlight, but screen stays black.
What I've tried:
- Disconnect right side cable from T-Con -> same (backlight but no pic)
- Disconnect left side... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment