Samsung PN60E530 no picture

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

are you still monitoring the Samsung 60E530 board? I am trying to use heat to locate the problem.

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

Doesn't surprise me, I'm guessing SJ hadn't tested the buffers they sent you thoroughly. If you test them as in the video and they come out bad I would send them back for a refund.

http://www.tinwhisker.us/
I am trying to alert the other prior posters on the Samsung 60E530 repair board.

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I believe that I have narrowed down the problem to the second-lowest chip on the upper Y-buffer board, or at least somewhere around it. I heat that chip with the hair dryer, and the TV video won't turn on. Once I let that chip cool down, the TV video turns on normally.
I have removed most of the silicone-rubber-looking material from around all the ICs on the Y-buffer boards, but not all of it. I have seen that there are some commercial silicone-rubber-removing chemicals available, but I don't know if they would be safe to use on a printed circuit board with solder-mask on it. (solder-mask is the usually-green thin coating used to cover the tin-coated copper runs, to prevent solder from wetting those runs. I wouldn't be surprised if silicon-rubber-remover chemical has some rather caustic characteristics and eventually attacked not merely the silicone rubber, but also plastic materials with which it has contact.
I could just order a replacement, which seems to be available from an online store called "ShopJimmy". http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung/pn60e530a3fxza
But, it is conceivable that the problem is simply a tin whisker, which might conceivably be readily abraded away with a very fine wire brush. Naturally, I'd like to avoid spending $24.32, if I can help it.

"Samsung BN96-22117A (LJ92-01876B) Upper Y Scan Drive $24.32
LJ92-01876B Partial PBA number (876B) can be found on a sticker."

I would appreciate it if other people attempt to use a hair-dryer in the way I have, to locate any heat-senstive components in this TV.

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I received a new Y-buffer card yesterday. Unfortunately, after plugging it in, I see that it has not fixed things. If anything, things are WORSE: The video turns off all the time, now, as opposed to the original Y-buffer card. That latter behavior may be more consistent with the behavior seen by most owners of 60E530's than my original Y-buffer: My original buffer, installed, seems to have been associated with a thermal sensitivity that I previously described.
This may indicate that the actual problem is in the Y-main board.
Can anyone comment on that possibility?

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

This is the message I'm sending now to shopjimmy.com:
Your Youtube videos invite questions from owners, at sales@shopjimmy.com. Here is mine. Note: I have been doing electronics for 45 years, although NOT TV repair!

I have a Samsung 60E530, bought early 2013. For 2 years it worked great. Middle of 2015, it began to exhibit turn-offs after the TV had been on for hours. But when I tried turning the TV on again, the sound came on, but the video did not. Initially, I had to wait about 5 minutes of "off" before turning it on again, in order to restore the video. I determined that the problem was thermally-sensitive: Initially, above 72 degrees Fahrenheit it exhibited this, but if the room was cooler it did not. Gradually, over a few months, this critical cutoff temperature dropped to 69 degrees. Also, after a few months, I had to wait an increasingly long time to turn the video back on, although the audio would come back immediately. That time increased to perhaps 15 minutes or more.

These symptoms aren't typical: I see that where there is a problem with this model, usually the video is entirely absent, although the sound works well.

A week ago, I opened up the back of the TV in a colder place. (My basement) The TV usually turned on okay. Using a hair-dryer as a heat gun, I discovered that the second-lowest IC on the upper Y-buffer card was thermally sensitive: If it was even slightly raised in temperature (probably 2-3 degrees Fahrenheit) the previously-observed symptom (TV video would not turn on, although the audio always would) would occur. Naturally, I concluded that the problem was the Y-buffer board.

So, I bought from you a replacement Y-buffer board, which arrived yesterday. I replaced it...and not only did it NOT fix the problem, but NOW the video doesn't come on AT ALL. This now seems to exhibit the same behavior as many others get: Video is ALWAYS off, sound works however.

At this point, my best guess is that it was the Y-main board that was bad, NOT the Y-buffer. I would order a new Y-main from you, but before I do I want you to comment and critique my idea.
[end of note to shopjimmy.com]

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I have a 60E530, which has failed, probably the Y-main (Y-sustain) board.

One chip which may go bad frequently is ICE3BR0665J. I've seen somebody offer a kit, consisting of this chip plus three tantalum capacitors, for about $20. That's WAY overpriced.
A better source should be DigiKey. http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...ywords=3BR0665 For $1.84
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...LA1-ND/4842151
This is shown in the photo as being an 8-pin Mini-dip, but on the board one of the leads is not present.

I've decided I'm going to place an order for about 10 of them, along with at least 30 of the tantalum capacitors also sold with the other source's kit. I will sell them for $6, which I think is much better than $20!!!
Jim

[ousig]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

Hi all - I have the same tv PN60E530A3FXZA that we bought end of 2012. It has been having off and on powering up "issues" the past year at least. Like others, sometimes it fires right up and never turns itself off or has picture problems. Other times the red LED will blink a few times then turn off (like the TV is on but no picture) - sound is passing through to the receiver via optical output.

One thing I HAVE NOT seen posted that leads me to believe it has something to do with the Main board is. I have found that if say we have our ROKU on in the background and/or my receiver on BEFORE turning the TV on...this causes the TV to not produce a picture much more often.

If we make it sure everything is off and turn the TV on first this has nearly eliminated the problem (at least reduced 70-80%).

Today I pulled our TV down and took the back off to look for any visual problems and none found. I took the time to blow off all dust and clean off any left over with a soft brush. I cycled through on/off/on/off/on/off 20x in a row and it never missed a beat. Remember this was without any source connected.

I am about to put it back on the mount and try to notice how it acts now. All of this to say is anyone else able to check this same situation? (see how your TV acts with/without any source powered on before turning the tv on.


sorry for the long first post!

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

Hi all - I have the same tv PN60E530A3FXZA that we bought end of 2012. It has been having off and on powering up "issues" the past year at least. Like others, sometimes it fires right up and never turns itself off or has picture problems. Other times the red LED will blink a few times then turn off (like the TV is on but no picture) - sound is passing through to the receiver via optical output.

One thing I HAVE NOT seen posted that leads me to believe it has something to do with the Main board is. I have found that if say we have our ROKU on in the background and/or my receiver on BEFORE turning the TV on...this causes the TV to not produce a picture much more often.

If we make it sure everything is off and turn the TV on first this has nearly eliminated the problem (at least reduced 70-80%).

Today I pulled our TV down and took the back off to look for any visual problems and none found. I took the time to blow off all dust and clean off any left over with a soft brush. I cycled through on/off/on/off/on/off 20x in a row and it never missed a beat. Remember this was without any source connected.

I am about to put it back on the mount and try to notice how it acts now. All of this to say is anyone else able to check this same situation? (see how your TV acts with/without any source powered on before turning the tv on.
sorry for the long first post!

===============

Thanks for adding your comments.
My 60E530A3F gradually got worse and eventually the screen wouldn't light at all. I eventually solved the problem. I tried a number of things, described above in various messages. Eventually, I determined that the fault was in the Y-main board, and solved it by buying a new Y-main board from a Chinese place called "Buyqual", http://www.buyqual.com/ for a total of about $108 including shipping
Plugged it in a couple of weeks ago, everything works fine now. Look for the ID number of the Y-main board BN96-2251A, which can be found easily by accessing shopjimmy.com, and looking for parts for the 60E530AJF. Doing a Google search for "BN96-2215A" showed many companies. Turns out that there are MANY companies offering the board, but at least as of a few weeks ago nearly all of them were out-of-stock.

I am unhappy, however, with the fact that I was unable to debug the previous Y-main board. For one thing, Samsung doesn't provide schematics, even for sale, which is at least two strikes against them. I considered the idea of buying a cheap thermal-IR viewer (they are available to plug into Android and Iphones) and observe the board in operation for unusually hot (or unusually cold) ICs. But that would have cost about $200; I eventually decided that a replacement board was a better bet.

Overall, I'm NOT a "happy camper" here. I remember well the era of the 1980's through 2000's, when all of the tubes were gone from TVs ('cept the main one) and TVs virtually lasted forever with no repair.

[ousig]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

As far as you remember you never noticed an issue if an active video source was on or off?

When I had my TV open face down. I did notice when I turned it off the large caps on the Yboard made a noise. like they were "powering down" or hissing.

The Xboard did not make such noise

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

As far as you remember you never noticed an issue if an active video source was on or off?
When I had my TV open face down. I did notice when I turned it off the large caps on the Yboard made a noise. like they were "powering down" or hissing.
The Xboard did not make such noise

I'm not sure what you mean. When I was servicing my TV, it was standing upright, and I used a mirror to be able to easily see the image. I didn't hear any noise, but I wasn't listening for it. I should mention that I am nearly 58 years old, and it is well-known that high-frequency hearing gets reduced with age. If you are young, perhaps you are hearing noise causes by AC current flowing through those capacitors. I don't know what the current scan frequencies are, but it is certainly conceivable that you heard what for me was ultrasonic.

[ousig]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

The sound from the large capacitors was a hiss type noise when I turned the TV off.

Anyway, mine may need the yboard also. Will see, for now we just have to be smart when we actually turn it off (if we will want it back on soon it stays on!)

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

The sound from the large capacitors was a hiss type noise when I turned the TV off.

Anyway, mine may need the yboard also. Will see, for now we just have to be smart when we actually turn it off (if we will want it back on soon it stays on!)

Well, my 60E530 went through a time where that tactic was a consideration. But eventually it degraded so much that even this caution didn't work.
Here's how to determine if the Y-main board is bad: There are two voltage test points, maybe they were Vs and Va. The Vs is supposed to be about 211 volts: The actual value for the screen is on a sticker inside the TV, easily visible while you are servicing the TV. If Y-main board is bad, if you turn on the TV, the voltage quickly rises to nearly 211 volts, but then drops down to less than 100 volts over a period of about a minute.
Note: I have a digital copy of the manual; are you interested?

[ousig]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

sure that would be good. I am about to be gone for the day. send me a message with your email and I will reply back to you tomorrow

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

sure that would be good. I am about to be gone for the day. send me a message with your email and I will reply back to you tomorrow

jimdbell1 /at/geeeemale[dotkom]

[somac072]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I have this unit....pn60e530 with the picture dropping out and leaving the sound only....turns out the x-main had failed...after replacing the x-main...the unit has been functioning normally for about 4 hrs....I plan to contact samsung for any software updates...no issues with x-main

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I have this unit....pn60e530 with the picture dropping out and leaving the sound only....turns out the x-main had failed...after replacing the x-main...the unit has been functioning normally for about 4 hrs....I plan to contact samsung for any software updates...no issues with x-main

My 60E530 failed due to a bad Y-main board.
How does somebody update the software for a 60E530? As far as I know, it doesn't have WiFi, nor a SD card, nor an Internet (ethernet) connection, etc.

[somac072]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

to update the software in the tv you can go to the samsung website and download the corrections to your laptop and then download them via the usb connection on the tv

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

to update the software in the tv you can go to the samsung website and download the corrections to your laptop and then download them via the usb connection on the tv

Thanks; I just learned that. However, I can see from accessing my TV's service function that my version of firmware is 1018.1; supposedly the newest version of firmware should be 1012. something. This is a mystery that I cannot explain. Since things seem to be working okay, I'm not going to try to "update" that firmware.

[Darth Jabber]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I am having a similar problem with my PN60F5300. I only have the correct Vs and Va voltages when I unplug the X and Y main boards(both the ribbon cable and the power plugs) Essentially leaving only the pwoer supply and main board connected. This is the only way I can keep the correct voltages and the 1 second blinking LED. Any ideas?
Thanks

[jim b1]

Re: Samsung PN60E530 no picture

I am having a similar problem with my PN60F5300. I only have the correct Vs and Va voltages when I unplug the X and Y main boards(both the ribbon cable and the power plugs) Essentially leaving only the pwoer supply and main board connected. This is the only way I can keep the correct voltages and the 1 second blinking LED. Any ideas?
Thanks

In my case, on my Samsung 60E530, the problem turned out to be a bad Y-main ("Y-sustain" is a synonym) board. The voltage should have been 211 volts DC, but instead it quickly started about there (205) and quickly (60 seconds) it dropped to under 100 volts. (at that point I stopped measuring; it might have gone much lower if I'd continued.) Disconnecting the Y-main (only) allowed the voltage to continue at 211 volts, but of course the picture didn't display at that point.
The problem started out, in the summer of 2015 as I recall, as spontaneous turn-offs after hours of on-time. Eventually I bought a (used) replacement Y-main from a Chinese supplier, "Buyqual technology Group", total price including shipping, at $108, which has kinda-sorta worked. Actually, in over a month of use, the TV has spontaneously turned off three times. If it stays at that rate, I consider this to be a success.
As for yours: I would separately disconnect the Y-main, test the voltage, and then reconnect it, and then disconnect the X-main board, and test the voltage again. If removing (only) one of these boards allows the voltages to stay at proper levels, most likely the failure is in the board that was disconnected when the voltage(s) remained correct.
I would have much preferred to have debugged my Y-main down to the component level. I was hampered by the lack of a board-level schematic.
If I had had access to a thermal-infrared viewer, the cheapest of which seem to sell for about $200 (And connect to an Android's micro-USB connector), I would have been able to view the Y-main board so see which component(s) were unusually hot, or unusually cold.