Ok, So i have probed for voltages. Using the black lead on the chassis ground, and using the red probe to grab voltage readings. I started in the direction of the arrow, and stopped mid way as I have a question. What are the crucial voltages that the panel has to have to show a picture? I understand VGL, VGH, and AVDD is important but which are crucial? When the tv Powers on, the right side seems to show a dark blue background when the samsung logow shows up, then turns black.
From where I started per the attached photo, and per the service manual looks like i'm starting at pin 94...
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Giving a quick update, Still working on TV. I'm trying to fix the right side of the screen that is black. I purchased a LCR tweezer that could read the capacitors in circuit. I didn't find any shorted caps, but the tweezers can tell me the ESR of the cap's. I used Diode mode and had the red probe on a chasis ground and used the negative probe to find any shorts on the caps on the buffer board. Going to find VGH and VGL, and will report back my findings. If anyone is curious the tweezers are called FNIRSI LCR-ST1 10KHz LCR Meter.
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Yes your correct, I had to go back and check myself. I was mistaken, I don't know how I got 0.2 ohms, but from the top pad of the transducer to the chassis I have open line. So no short. I wanted to ask. shouldn't i be measuring 17 volts DC at some point on the Driver board? I "think" im missing AVDD voltage which should show 17 vols. They highest voltage i found was roughly 8 volts.
I check the working side of the TV, and it shows on the first smd capacitor that it has 17 votls, however I never get close to that on the black picture side on the driver board. I'm hoping...1 Photo
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Hey Nomoresonys, I "thnk" if you look at post 31, If you pick one of the two points off the board.( Preferably the pad where the transducer is lifted) Where the illustration is showing the transducer being lifted by one leg. If you had a dmm on "continuity Beep mode" and say black lead on that pad on the board and the otthe red lead checking each point on the U ribbon cable, or Lvds cable it should beep showing continuity and you could mask that area quicker than blindly moving tape at a section hoping for the best as you test it.
Lotas /Diah please correct me...
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Ya Nomo, I agree I won't be buying a Samsung in the future. I'm not impressed that this TV was once over 2k USD, and now its a glorified paper weight. I tried to warn my parents about the quality, but alas they bought another Samsung.
Lotas, I've included photos of the ribbon U cables.I shot gunned from the hip, and masked the last driver board on the left side, and that stopped the boot loop. I believe your on the correct path regarding the left board being an issue, as I was testing and with the U ribbon cable connected the picture degrades. The picture is crystal clear when the...4 Photos
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First Capacitor going north from the suppressor I have the following:
C1: 3.992 k ohm
C2: 18.07 K ohm
C3: 304.7 K ohm
C4: 9.49 k ohm
C5: 9.49 K ohm
C6: 220.3 k ohm
C7: 221.4 K ohm
C8: 9.45 k Ohm
C9: 9.44 K ohm
C10: 0.630 Mega ohm ----- Maybe bad?
C11: 302.4 K ohm
C12: 3.96 K ohm
C13: 3.94 K ohm
C14: 3.94 K ohm
C15: 43 Mega ohm ----- Kept Increasing in resistance, weird has to be bad right?
C16: open line ----- obviously bad ?...
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Lotas with the suppressor lifted one leg in that photo, i have 0.2 ohms.
Guys I'll come clean, I screwed up, on the working side i was lifting the one leg up gently on the anode supressor and it came off both sides. I wanted to know if i could read anything and compare the two on both sides. Is it game over, or can we substitute in a component?
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Hey Lotas, I have attached photos shows the working side, with the TVS diode and anode suppressor. I have one leg lifted on the non-working side, (no photos attached), and could not measure resistance even using skinny probes.
Lotas is the anode suppressor needed to allow picture on screen? If it is lost, can a substitute be used? i.e diode, jumper wire? Just curious?2 Photos
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Lotas, Diah, I appreciate your patience. I have include new photos with no shadows. I have included notes on my findings. I believe the TVS Diodes are fine. I checked on the other side of the tv's driver/ buffer board. I received the same results as to to the driver board in question. Can anyone tell me what is that device in front of the 4 TVS Diodes? I ask ask in the color orange box, while in Diode mode, I beeped in different spots of the component. I wondered if that is worth to mention as the right side of the TV displayed a picture and the left side boot looped and didn't provide a picture,...2 Photos
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Lotas, Thanks for clarifying for me, I was reading into it and over thinking what you needed. I have attached the results from taking off masked tap on the CN1301 side. I want to mention that im blown away and confused, because originally I thought the short was on the CN1301 side, but as one can see in the photos, a picture is shown as if no issues. In addition,a had a boot loop, which again confuses me so i disconnected the jumper ribbon cable for the right side of the screen to stop it. I included my finger to point to what i mean.
Why is that lotas? Im thirsting for knowledge,...3 Photos
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