Originally posted by lotas
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Samsung eu75nu8000 no picture after tape method
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Sounds strange the pmic gets hot due to surrounding shorted component, modern ic have more than one protections also, the problem could be another but now time to search a board, if you succesfully get it work, do not close the set, there's another step further..
the simplest test on the caps is by ohm mode and probing one way across them, if zero ohm then short.. almost the same the diodes..Last edited by Davi.p; 11-11-2024, 05:30 PM.
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Originally posted by PNI E. View Post
Iotas don't give up….if you all help me we can find a way I'm sure I ll test all the capacitor, and will see, I tried to find the datasheet of the ic for see if I could check but I didn't find nothing. I'm not a professional but if you guys help me I can understand and try to understand if it s death or no, then I can have the ic death and also the panel….i know this, and i know it s hard to guide me but with your help I can try.
solder the jumper on the 2 points and unplug the lower LVDS only... see if the BL on and screen show you any things... dont use the jumper with hand.
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Originally posted by Diah View Post
i have friend in Greece, bring me always Olive when he come to Germany... but he got very sick .... over talk... he told me 99& Italian farmer plant Olive tree beside wine... so their wine and olive oil better than our.... don't know if this true but just now you confirmed it to have wine and olive..
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Originally posted by Diah View Post
its not dead...
solder the jumper on the 2 points and unplug the lower LVDS only... see if the BL on and screen show you any things... dont use the jumper with hand.
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Originally posted by Davi.p View PostSounds strange the pmic gets hot due to surrounding shorted component, modern ic have more than one protections also, the problem could be another but now time to search a board, if you succesfully get it work, do not close the set, there's another step further..
the simplest test on the caps is by ohm mode and probing one way across them, if zero ohm then short.. almost the same the diodes..
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No need to spend money on MB replacement... he did the test DC to DC was in range however the SoC GPU in 100% tact., just he solder the points and unplug first the lower LVDS and then put it back and unplug the other one.... unplug and plug should be when the TV out from wall socket ,, good luck
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Hi guys I'm here back…I don't think I have good news. I solder like diah and iotas tall me, unplug the lower lvds turn on and the Tv turn off in 5 sec more or less, if I unplug the upper lvds the same happen the Tv turn off like in 5 sec back light on audio yes but no picture at all…. What it meas? Before I solder the jumper the Tv with one lvds unplug, was on, and it was on if I unplug the upper lvds or the lower lvds, I tried with both the lvds unplug and the tv turn on like 5 sec. Did I wrong something? Can someone explain? Means main board and panel are ko? Thanks for all the help
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Originally posted by lotas View PostBut your DC/DC chip is shorted or its power output to the panel is short, so it turns off, I can't say anything about the panel now until you replace the chip (fix the short circuit) or find a new motherboard...
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Originally posted by PNI E. View PostHi guys I'm here back…I don't think I have good news. I solder like diah and iotas tall me, unplug the lower lvds turn on and the Tv turn off in 5 sec more or less, if I unplug the upper lvds the same happen the Tv turn off like in 5 sec back light on audio yes but no picture at all…. What it meas? Before I solder the jumper the Tv with one lvds unplug, was on, and it was on if I unplug the upper lvds or the lower lvds, I tried with both the lvds unplug and the tv turn on like 5 sec. Did I wrong something? Can someone explain? Means main board and panel are ko? Thanks for all the help
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Originally posted by Diah View Post
this new condition against your first post as you said you masked pins and tv remain on with out picture... then we found you removed heat sink... and freeze or maybe you heated the SoC.. !!! any way some things wrong you did by advice or private PM.. you should tell all so we could let you safe spending money.
ps. Diah the test I made with the bridge soldering I unplug the ldvs, but I remove the tape on them. The test with the bridge I have to make with the tape on the ldvs?
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Guys come back from the test, so the resistence of inductors are 1,5 kohm, two have higher like 40 kohm and one how u suggest Iotas is 0,7 ohm so they should look fine, I put the photo with the values. How suggest Davi.p I test the voltage on the capacitor near the pvm2 but I have only 12,8 volts on two capacitor, the rest of capacitor have like 0,3 0,4 volts…and one like - 0,4 volt. I tested also the capacitor voltage near the lvds with just one cable put in and one not in. The voltage there is 0 in someone and 0,5 volt in other , and it s the same for the two ldvs also if plug in the cable or not. So slowly I checked the voltage on the pins of pvmw and the higher voltage I had was like 4,8 volts….i don't think it s normal… I put the photo of the voltage I tested then I tested the temperature of pvm2 without flat panel cable plug in,so all disconnect and the temperature in 30 second was 60 celssius that I think it s high….let me know what I have to do next like if you was me what u ll do? Diah I take a photo of spry I bought it some year ago not for electronic use but for freeze a bearing of a tractor for be more easy to install, but it s for electronic or Amazon say so
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Originally posted by Diah View Postmake alcohol bath and put yours MB in and shaking it several time to clean it complete, leave it dry complete then install it back
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