Hi folks,
I'm new to this forum. So my trusty 17-year-old LG 47" LCD recently died. As I was booting it up, I heard a hum followed by a loud bang, sounds of pieces flying around, and loss of power to the unit. Inspecting the PSU, I saw two obvious problems: a blown thermistor (bang + flung pieces) and a visibly bulging main cap. Inspecting as many components as I could with my Fluke MM, I diagnosed that the following components on the "hot side" of the board were also bad: one of the 2 main MOSFETs, main 8A fuse, small cap (25V 47uF) connected to main caps, and a blown resistor (2.2 Ohm) connected to main caps (all marked with red "X" in pic). The bridge rectifier, diodes, Zener diodes, etc. test fine.
I replaced the MOSFET with an identical replacement, main caps (Samwha 450V 150uF "LP" 105C (M) 35x35mm) with (Chemi Con 450V 150uF "KMM" 105C (M) 30x35mm), and fuse/small cap/resistor with same value equivalents. Previous attempts at powering up the board resulted in blown main 8A fuses. Now that I've replaced the MOSFETs, the fuses remain good, and I'm getting a solid 120V into the board. The main caps seem to be charging fine at 160V DC (believe that's the correct standby voltage). However, I'm still not getting any output at all from the "cold side" of the board. It also looks like the replacement resistor (R508 - between 2 main caps) continues to blow upon powering up. It's rated for 1/4A 250V, so there must be too much current being pulled through.
I'm assuming there have to be more damaged components from the initial main cap failure. As a note, I've never tried to repair something as complicated as a TV before, so I'm still learning about more advanced electronics. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a schematic to upload, so I just took some photos of the board from various angles/lighting (hopefully they're clear enough, can always upload more). Also, yes, the bad resistor has a disconnected joint in the pic (desoldered for testing). The large blue and black diode was jerry-rigged to the underside of the board (the result of frustration trying to desolder prior to purchasing a desoldering station) - the connections all test good. The original red-striped 5A fuse also remains good, so I'm hopeful no power surges damaged anything downstream.
I believe that's everything I can think of at the moment. I'd highly appreciate any insights anyone has that can help me save "Ol' Reliable." Thanks!
I'm new to this forum. So my trusty 17-year-old LG 47" LCD recently died. As I was booting it up, I heard a hum followed by a loud bang, sounds of pieces flying around, and loss of power to the unit. Inspecting the PSU, I saw two obvious problems: a blown thermistor (bang + flung pieces) and a visibly bulging main cap. Inspecting as many components as I could with my Fluke MM, I diagnosed that the following components on the "hot side" of the board were also bad: one of the 2 main MOSFETs, main 8A fuse, small cap (25V 47uF) connected to main caps, and a blown resistor (2.2 Ohm) connected to main caps (all marked with red "X" in pic). The bridge rectifier, diodes, Zener diodes, etc. test fine.
I replaced the MOSFET with an identical replacement, main caps (Samwha 450V 150uF "LP" 105C (M) 35x35mm) with (Chemi Con 450V 150uF "KMM" 105C (M) 30x35mm), and fuse/small cap/resistor with same value equivalents. Previous attempts at powering up the board resulted in blown main 8A fuses. Now that I've replaced the MOSFETs, the fuses remain good, and I'm getting a solid 120V into the board. The main caps seem to be charging fine at 160V DC (believe that's the correct standby voltage). However, I'm still not getting any output at all from the "cold side" of the board. It also looks like the replacement resistor (R508 - between 2 main caps) continues to blow upon powering up. It's rated for 1/4A 250V, so there must be too much current being pulled through.
I'm assuming there have to be more damaged components from the initial main cap failure. As a note, I've never tried to repair something as complicated as a TV before, so I'm still learning about more advanced electronics. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a schematic to upload, so I just took some photos of the board from various angles/lighting (hopefully they're clear enough, can always upload more). Also, yes, the bad resistor has a disconnected joint in the pic (desoldered for testing). The large blue and black diode was jerry-rigged to the underside of the board (the result of frustration trying to desolder prior to purchasing a desoldering station) - the connections all test good. The original red-striped 5A fuse also remains good, so I'm hopeful no power surges damaged anything downstream.
I believe that's everything I can think of at the moment. I'd highly appreciate any insights anyone has that can help me save "Ol' Reliable." Thanks!
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