Hi All,
I have attached some pictures of this VESTEL 17PW25-4 250111 V1 PSU removed from a Toshiba 32BV702B.
TV worked fine from new (10 months old) it had a blank screen and red flashing light on start up, performed factory default reset as advised by Toshiba and all was ok for three months.... Now13 months old and Toshiba don't want to know.
TV was in PC mode VGA connected, when I shut it down / standby / no on off switch.
Next morning the set was totally dead, stripped it down and found the PSU Board is Fried, Blown apart IC (see Pictures).
Q1. Is this failure common on this PSU and is there likely to be another / different panel fault that caused it?
Q2. I have got another working 17PW25-4 250111 V1 PSU (See Pictures) from a 26" if I remember rightly.
What are the Chances of it working if I swap out and replace all different components, caps, etc from the blown board to the working board, it seems to be half a dozen caps to be changed or repositioned and the toggle switch socket needs bridging?
I have examined it closely and everything else seems to be the same underneath, a standard board with different positions for components and caps to make life hard.
(I am of work sick at the moment, so it will pass some time)
Any and all feed back would be appreciated, before I start this project. Thanks Fred.
I have attached some pictures of this VESTEL 17PW25-4 250111 V1 PSU removed from a Toshiba 32BV702B.
TV worked fine from new (10 months old) it had a blank screen and red flashing light on start up, performed factory default reset as advised by Toshiba and all was ok for three months.... Now13 months old and Toshiba don't want to know.
TV was in PC mode VGA connected, when I shut it down / standby / no on off switch.
Next morning the set was totally dead, stripped it down and found the PSU Board is Fried, Blown apart IC (see Pictures).
Q1. Is this failure common on this PSU and is there likely to be another / different panel fault that caused it?
Q2. I have got another working 17PW25-4 250111 V1 PSU (See Pictures) from a 26" if I remember rightly.
What are the Chances of it working if I swap out and replace all different components, caps, etc from the blown board to the working board, it seems to be half a dozen caps to be changed or repositioned and the toggle switch socket needs bridging?
I have examined it closely and everything else seems to be the same underneath, a standard board with different positions for components and caps to make life hard.
(I am of work sick at the moment, so it will pass some time)
Any and all feed back would be appreciated, before I start this project. Thanks Fred.
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