I had a coworker ask me to repair one of these. He could not get it to power up, and it looks like he bridged the main fuse, causing the filter caps to blow.
A simple recap of the entire board got the set going again, but I thought a few observations would help someone who wished to repair one of these in the future:
I could not find a revision number on the set or the power supply board, but the two caps that are typically id'd as the main troublemakers on this tv were not the junky Capxon brand, but were some nice 105c Nichicons. Perhaps the manufacturer had too many of these failing due to those two crummy caps. All ecaps were replaced with either 105c Nichicons or Panasonic caps. Total cost from Mouser was about 15 bucks with shipping.
In most recappings I have seen on this forum, folks tend to leave the caps under the heat sinks alone. There are three of these, and on my set, all three tested for leakage. Replacement may seem intimidating, but I was able to feed the long leads of the new caps through the through holes on the board without any issue. One of these caps was totally blown out on my board, so please don't ignore these when redoing your set.
Performance of the set is so so. So so picture, and pretty mediocre audio. Still, it was only 30 minutes worth of work, and the set now has 10 hours on it, so it looks like it will work just fine. Hopefully these observations will be helpful to someone in the future.
A simple recap of the entire board got the set going again, but I thought a few observations would help someone who wished to repair one of these in the future:
I could not find a revision number on the set or the power supply board, but the two caps that are typically id'd as the main troublemakers on this tv were not the junky Capxon brand, but were some nice 105c Nichicons. Perhaps the manufacturer had too many of these failing due to those two crummy caps. All ecaps were replaced with either 105c Nichicons or Panasonic caps. Total cost from Mouser was about 15 bucks with shipping.
In most recappings I have seen on this forum, folks tend to leave the caps under the heat sinks alone. There are three of these, and on my set, all three tested for leakage. Replacement may seem intimidating, but I was able to feed the long leads of the new caps through the through holes on the board without any issue. One of these caps was totally blown out on my board, so please don't ignore these when redoing your set.
Performance of the set is so so. So so picture, and pretty mediocre audio. Still, it was only 30 minutes worth of work, and the set now has 10 hours on it, so it looks like it will work just fine. Hopefully these observations will be helpful to someone in the future.
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