Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

[jaxmoto]

Picked up this set today.

- Plugged it in, got a standard blue steady standby light on front
- Powered it on, got one solid click, flashing light, happy Samsung beeps, standby light goes out, NO PICTURE (TV thinks it is on)
- Smelled faint burning, powered it off, got standard Samsung power off beeps
- Opened it up and found on of the chips on the y-upper has a burned pinhole (tested to verify and it got extremely hot almost instantly)

Since then I have (all the noises I mention are very faint, wouldn't hear with rear of tv on)...

- Powered it on with the y-up disconnected, no picture, slight humming and cycling noise coming from y-main
- Powered it on with y-lower disconnected, same result
- Powered it on with y-main disconnected, still slight humming from main power board but no more cycling noise, no picture
- Powered it on with secondary power board disconnected, no more humming, no picture

Tested all voltages, all are spot on to within ~3%.

Should I be getting a picture at all (diagnostic or just backlight)?

Where should I go from here to tell if I have just a bad y-upper, or a bad Y set of boards, or if even more than the obvious board is bad?

Thanks for any help.

[tw2005]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

If you search your model, you'll find a number of posts. Other terms you could try in a search I've listed some key words to try.

Finding a good upper buffer and cheaply will be challenging unless you have the ability to do hot air rework for the buffer chips.

88N30W,

PHILIPS
50PFP5332D/37

PS50Q96, PS50Q91, PS50c91

50PFP5332D/37

HPT5054,DP50747, VP50HDTV20A , P50HDTV20A ,S50HW-YB02, S50HW-YD02



There's a lot of different models which use this particular Samsung setup.

The most common failure is blown upper buffer and blown ymain. I've repaired a few ymains which only had shorted 88N30W FETs but there are different failure points as well.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18542

This video contains a model with the same boards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25HT...tCVe9&index=11

[kevinm34232]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

I just found an upper Y buffer for $62 for a HP-T5054 I recently got, but it was last one, they are closer to $100 on ebay. I was going to replace the IC, but, after removing it I saw the pads were pretty burned up on one side and not repairable.

I also have shorted 88N30W's on the Y-Main that need to be replaced and hopefully that will fix it.

[jaxmoto]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

If you search your model, you'll find a number of posts. Other terms you could try in a search I've listed some key words to try.

Finding a good upper buffer and cheaply will be challenging unless you have the ability to do hot air rework for the buffer chips.

88N30W,

PHILIPS
50PFP5332D/37

PS50Q96, PS50Q91, PS50c91

50PFP5332D/37

HPT5054,DP50747, VP50HDTV20A , P50HDTV20A ,S50HW-YB02, S50HW-YD02



There's a lot of different models which use this particular Samsung setup.

The most common failure is blown upper buffer and blown ymain. I've repaired a few ymains which only had shorted 88N30W FETs but there are different failure points as well.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18542

This video contains a model with the same boards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25HT...tCVe9&index=11

Thanks for all the info, I think it is enough to lead me to getting it fixed.

I am pretty familiar with LCD's, but haven't done much on plasmas... so if I don't find anything under the specific model number it is hard to tell what applies and what doesn't.

[capkid]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

I just found an upper Y buffer for $62 for a HP-T5054 I recently got, but it was last one, they are closer to $100 on ebay. I was going to replace the IC, but, after removing it I saw the pads were pretty burned up on one side and not repairable.

I also have shorted 88N30W's on the Y-Main that need to be replaced and hopefully that will fix it.

I was afraid you'd run into burned traces on your upper Y-buffer. They are a bit of a crap shoot for repair when they fail.

[kevinm34232]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

Yea it burned deep into the board on 2-3 pads. And you weren't kidding I heated up the middle of the IC for awhile while slighly lifting a corner, the chip broke into pieces and eventually I got it all off except for the center which is still there, not sure if that's glued on or what it just wouldn't budge. Besides the burned pads maybe 1 or 2 came loose which could have been put back in place.

That would have been a tough job soldering it back though. You have luck adding solder to the tip of the iron and dragging it across well fluxed pins?

[capkid]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

Yea it burned deep into the board on 2-3 pads. And you weren't kidding I heated up the middle of the IC for awhile while slighly lifting a corner, the chip broke into pieces and eventually I got it all off except for the center which is still there, not sure if that's glued on or what it just wouldn't budge. Besides the burned pads maybe 1 or 2 came loose which could have been put back in place.

You have to keep applying heat to the chip; I usually move in a circular motion around the center of the chip. If I remember correctly, I had my hot air station set to 380 degrees Celsius to remove the chip. It's a VERY delicate procedure that takes a lot of patience.

[capkid]

Re: Samsung 50" plasma HP-S5053 No picture y-main issue

That would have been a tough job soldering it back though. You have luck adding solder to the tip of the iron and dragging it across well fluxed pins?

I use a well or "hoof" tip on my soldering iron to drag solder. You don't need much solder. The well tips work great. After I align the chip, I typically hold it in place with my thumb and tack down opposite corners (maybe two or three of the last pins in each corner end up bridged with solder). I then proceed to add lots of liquid flux and drag solder the chip into place.