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If you were in the US, I could ship you one! I have a working EBR39522801 sitting here in front of me That I was about to put on Ebay for $50. I don' know about shipping international and it would probably be too expensive anyway.
I will try tomorrow mate and get pics, the brother and I had a little bit of a falling out..thats why I couldnt get the pictures in the first place.
Before I get pictures Tom, is there anyway of testing which ribbon is faulting, ie
Connect ribbon 1 and see the results and so on down the line until all ribbons are connected and working fine or do they all need to be connected and its just a trial and error exercise
Each ribbon drives 1/N of the panel e.g. 10 ribbons on 1080p panel each drives 108 lines, so if you know from the top or bottom where the fault is, it will correspond to the ribbon at the same position.
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Each ribbon drives 1/N of the panel e.g. 10 ribbons on 1080p panel each drives 108 lines, so if you know from the top or bottom where the fault is, it will correspond to the ribbon at the same position.
Thank you, my only two other concerns is the tv started shutting down and restarting....would an unseated ribbon cause this to happen and the bottom part with the purple speckles and more of a grey colour
Is there any possible chance this buffer is bad and I am fighting a lost cause
A bad Y-sus can kill the buffer, it's possible it could also have wounded it.
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Right ok, for the sake of £15-£20 I am going to take the gamble and buy a new one.
Whilst your here Tom can you just help my learning curve (and maybe others) on this pic parts of the board are labelled SUS-UP SUS-DN and HS2 ermmm what are these and what do they do/mean/control
They're in parallel.
SUS UP connects output to Vs.
SUS DN connects output to GND.
A picture will help determine if fault is actually with buffer.
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They're in parallel.
SUS UP connects output to Vs.
SUS DN connects output to GND.
A picture will help determine if fault is actually with buffer.
Thank you, I think I will get the new buffer because knowing me I will spend 6 hours reseating and achieve nothing, if the new buffer is doing the same thing then I will know it is me at fault
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Yes mate the picture is different, I can make the white lines dissappear but then I have just a black screen..its like there is no inbetween, i can make the whole screen white but then the tv shuts down
If I make the whole screen dark I get no OSD and it does look like the screen isnt working at all
Cheers for the video link, I have already watched it..it is embedded in the grey matter forever more and did the exact test before fitting
Yes mate the picture is different, I can make the white lines dissappear but then I have just a black screen..its like there is no inbetween, i can make the whole screen white but then the tv shuts down
If I make the whole screen dark I get no OSD and it does look like the screen isnt working at all
Cheers for the video link, I have already watched it..it is embedded in the grey matter forever more and did the exact test before fitting
Many of these newer TVs have thin plasma panels, which means if the screen is smashed while it is energised there is a good chance the buffer will fry.
Your symptoms do match those of a bad Y-buffer.
Did you use a multimeter with fast continuity, like mine, to do the test? Or just use ohms?
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I very much doubt my DMM is anything like yours and I couldnt tell you if it has a fast continuity...I ddnt test in ohms..shall I do it that way and what am I looking for
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