Mitsubishi WD-65731 Error code 58
Hi guys! This is my first post on badcaps.
I searched the forums as best I know how and didn't see my specific problem addressed anywhere, so hopefully this isn't a bum thread and somebody out there is willing to help me wade through a repair project.
I bought a mitsubishi wd-65731 DLP off craigslist about a month ago. It was working flawlessly with a crisp picture, no white spots, no color issues using multiple HDMI inputs for cable and PC inputs. Stickers indicate it was built in 2006, and the previous owner says he's never had any problems except burnt out bulbs--the last one being replaced a year ago.
Roughly a week ago (3 weeks into ownership), I went to turn on the unit and found a red status light staring back at me.
Now the set refuses to boot. Pressing power does nothing. Pressing the indented "reset" button produces a single click and then nothing. the status LED just stares at me with it's lame solid red glow.
I do not hear any fans starting to spin. Absolutely nothing seems to be happening under the hood.
Pressing menu+input yields an error code of 58--"Signal short detected," per the repair manual for the model.
The set was plugged into a surge protector, and no other electronics which were plugged into that same surge protector are malfunctioning. Admittedly, there were some storms preceding the death of the TV. My house was built in the 1930's but has 1970's updated fuse boxes.
So, to make a long story longer, I carefully disassembled the electronic chassis (V33) hoping to see some obvious bulging of caps or a blown fuse I could replace, but everything seems to be kosher. I do not own a multimeter and have never undertaken a large project like this. I've replaced a cap or two in my day with a basic soldering gun and marginally-acceptable technique. I've read your FAQ's on bad cap location and good cap replacement technique and feel much more capable to proceed than I did yesterday.
My questions are:
1. Has anyone else seen this exact problem?
2. If so, can you point me in the right direction to get started?
3. If not, should I just go ahead and rebuild the entire chassis like this guy says to do it? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1zhfYHUIIY
4. Is this too big a job for an enthusiastic, unskilled quasi-nerd like myself?
5. What is the answer to the Ultimate Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything?
6. Should I take the chassis to a professional and have them diagnose and fix my problem? I really want to do it myself, but if this is above my paygrade, it's worth ~$200 to me to fix.
I have uploaded the repair and owner's manual for my set here if anyone cares to take a peek:
If anyone cares to play along, I'd be much obliged.
Thanks!
-kaoboj
I searched the forums as best I know how and didn't see my specific problem addressed anywhere, so hopefully this isn't a bum thread and somebody out there is willing to help me wade through a repair project.
I bought a mitsubishi wd-65731 DLP off craigslist about a month ago. It was working flawlessly with a crisp picture, no white spots, no color issues using multiple HDMI inputs for cable and PC inputs. Stickers indicate it was built in 2006, and the previous owner says he's never had any problems except burnt out bulbs--the last one being replaced a year ago.
Roughly a week ago (3 weeks into ownership), I went to turn on the unit and found a red status light staring back at me.
Now the set refuses to boot. Pressing power does nothing. Pressing the indented "reset" button produces a single click and then nothing. the status LED just stares at me with it's lame solid red glow.
I do not hear any fans starting to spin. Absolutely nothing seems to be happening under the hood.
Pressing menu+input yields an error code of 58--"Signal short detected," per the repair manual for the model.
The set was plugged into a surge protector, and no other electronics which were plugged into that same surge protector are malfunctioning. Admittedly, there were some storms preceding the death of the TV. My house was built in the 1930's but has 1970's updated fuse boxes.
So, to make a long story longer, I carefully disassembled the electronic chassis (V33) hoping to see some obvious bulging of caps or a blown fuse I could replace, but everything seems to be kosher. I do not own a multimeter and have never undertaken a large project like this. I've replaced a cap or two in my day with a basic soldering gun and marginally-acceptable technique. I've read your FAQ's on bad cap location and good cap replacement technique and feel much more capable to proceed than I did yesterday.
My questions are:
1. Has anyone else seen this exact problem?
2. If so, can you point me in the right direction to get started?
3. If not, should I just go ahead and rebuild the entire chassis like this guy says to do it? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1zhfYHUIIY
4. Is this too big a job for an enthusiastic, unskilled quasi-nerd like myself?
5. What is the answer to the Ultimate Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything?
6. Should I take the chassis to a professional and have them diagnose and fix my problem? I really want to do it myself, but if this is above my paygrade, it's worth ~$200 to me to fix.
I have uploaded the repair and owner's manual for my set here if anyone cares to take a peek:
If anyone cares to play along, I'd be much obliged.
Thanks!
-kaoboj