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nobbnobb1
Senior Member
Last Activity: 04-25-2024, 09:18 PM
Joined: 11-16-2019
Location: BC
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  • They are "ChongX" and says "VEHT" and "low ESR". Is it supposed to say "VENT"? In hindsight, I'm guessing I shouldn't risk it. Didn't realize knock offs of even Chinese capacitors is such an issue....
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  • Cheap Aliexpress Capacitor: Much smaller than original. Safe to use?

    I am trying to get a set of Creative T40 computer speakers to work again of which I believe the problem is bad caps (470uF @ 35V). So I get a generic set off Aliexpress. The brands are meaningless, but if anyone cares it's a "Chongx"

    When they arrive, to my surprise it's much smaller than the originals. These are 8mm x 15mm whereas the OE is 10mm x 20mm. Unfortunately my meter does not test capacitance but I'm guessing there's no way this meets spec at 80% the size.

    ​​​​​​Thoughts? Is it still worthwhile or safe to try and install these to see if...
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  • Laptop LCD Panel Upgrade (HP Elitebook G8 845)

    Hello,

    I have an HP Elitebook G8 845 with the base 14" 250 nit LCD screen which looks terrible. I believe the base unit is a B140HAN04.6 (but not 100% sure). From looking at some part interchange numbers, I believe this is the 400 nit upgraded panel which came as an option (not 100% sure...just based off an Aliexpress listing):

    B140HAN05.3 [URL]https://www.panelook.com/B140HAN05.3_AUO_14.0_LCM_overview_42334.html[/URL]

    Then looking at the same family of panels, this unit appears to be a version with better specs:

    B140HAN05.9 [URL]https://www.panelook.com/B140HAN05.9_AUO_14.0_LCM_overview_44257.html[/URL]...
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  • That's not a bad price. For me, I wanted somwthing high current and the cheapest way was to just build out an old ATX computer power supply. You can buy a cheap DC-DC adjustable regulator, a small voltage/current display, and some knobs....
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  • Re: Onkyo NR609 usual Dolby/DTS DSP failure

    I didn't know people go through the effort of reballing! Since I don't have the tools or skill, I've just been doing the heatgun trick. I shield the chip surroundings with some tinfoil and blast the heatgun until I measure 200C on the chip. I then let it cool slowly and naturally, then stick on a heatsink to the chip. I also modified the onboard fan to run all the time (there's a spare connector somewhere that puts out a constant 12V). Has seemed to holdup for the last year so far.

    I've also done this to fix a Toshiba plasma...
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  • Re: DIY NAS Service Life (Hardware)



    I'm curious what kind of problems do you notice beyond that in terms of reliability issues? Hard drive and fan failures are fairly easy to work around. This is the only machine that I've really ever ran for such long periods. Even then, it's not a 24/7 machine. It auto powers down from midnight to 6am everyday.

    I would also maybe attribute my reliability to the fact that I built it to be a pretty low power machine. ~50 watts on idle with 1 drive. Was very surprised to see the infamous yellow glue in the power supply...
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  • DIY NAS Service Life (Hardware)

    So I'm probably a decade behind on this, but my current NAS is a low power machine I built in 2009. It was originally running Windows Home Server, then eventually I migrated to Windows 10 using Storage Spaces for my drive expandability and redundancy. Despite being slow for W10, I love the familiarity and functionality so I never bothered getting into NAS specific OS.

    Hardware wise, it's got 4x drives but the hardware is all super low draw, so the Antec EarthWatts EA380D power supply is barely above ambient. This PSU is apparently known for capacitor issues but when I went in to...
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  • Re: Onkyo TX-NR609 Sound only on USB/Internet Radio/DLNA Input

    These series of Onkyos were notorious for the no sound problem, but it was almost always that chip of which you are saying you reballed already. Did you remove the chip entirely to reball or did you just do the heatgun trick? Also I believe it's called the DTS/HDMI chip
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  • Re: Fix for Logitech Z906 speaker erratic function

    Was there yellow glue inside which turned brown? This similar thing happened on some other computer speakers and turned out to be the culprit, not the caps. Strange that the Z906s would have bad caps already because I would've thought this model is relatively new.
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  • Re: The Real Dangers of conductive glue.

    It's disappointing to see that even in the modern day, that manufacturers are still using this glue despite a 20+ year history of this stuff causing problems.

    I now make it a habit to open up any electronics that I moderately care about that is 10+ years old to check for this stuff. Usually it's only an issue on parts that run hot. If the area is cool running, this stuff will almost never degrade so I just leave it as is because it's super hard to remove. Chipping away too aggressively just risks damage to the circuit board....
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks

    Just replaced the 5.6 ohm resistors. No luck, still the same problem. Pretty darn close to just giving up on this SS board now.
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  • Re: Question about common symptom in repaired subwoofers



    I'm still a super beginner but it's hard to say. With capacitors, I've had units that looked perfectly normal with no bulges/leaks and yet it was still bad enough to prevent the amp from functioning. The capacitors that are most likely to fail seem to be the large ones on the power supply, and any unit near heat sinks or other heat sources. Always good practice when replacing caps to try to bend/point them away from nearby heat sources if possible.

    After that, definitely test each diode/transistor...
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    Last edited by nobbnobb1; 03-29-2023, 05:48 PM.

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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    I have replacement 5.6 ohm SMD resistors (R041 and R051), but then I just noticed the ones I bought are physically too small! I could probably be creative in using a blob of solder to jumper it together. A little tough getting the right size because I got these off Aliexpress and seemingly none of the sellers list out the dimensions!

    In the meantime, I powered on the TV with SS33 disconnected and TPVe tested 170V as per the service manual. Those other transistors I tested in-situ and they don't seem to have...
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    Last edited by nobbnobb1; 03-28-2023, 08:03 PM.

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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    That's a good point. However in my case I'd probably like to avoid doing so. I can feel the traces buggering up on the transistors/diodes that I replaced. So I'd like to really avoid any more stresses to the circuit board if I don't have to!...
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    Dang ok, I'll go replace them later and report back. They're surrounded by other stuff and looks like a pain in the butt to get off!...
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    Thanks for that suggestion. For $70, it's probably not worth it on this Tv at that point and I'd probably give away the TV to let someone else try. Was hoping to be able to get this unit working from a hobbyist perspective. Hate seeing stuff go to waste!...
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    Aliexpress. Only note is that the only part I did NOT replace were the 2x 5.6 ohm resistors because I tested them and they were fine. Did not want to replace these because of how difficult it would be to solder them.

    I guess my last resort if we can't try anything else would be to replace these, but I can't imagine them to be a problem if they test properly....
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    Yup, already did that as part of Panasonic's troubleshooting guide. Does not appear to be any issues as I got the following values (roughly):

    SS57 - 1.3 ohm
    SS54 - 1.7 ohm
    SS55 - 1.4 ohm
    SS57 - 1.8 ohm...
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks



    Just tried that. TV stays on and all SS board heatsinks stay cool. What does that mean?...
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  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50U50 Powers Off - 8 blinks

    I think those suggestions seem to be bandaid workarounds. There are two heatsink sets and they are both getting way too hot which is 100% a problem. I did replace the diode/transistor sets with new units, and the fact that both independent heatsink sets are getting too hot would suggest that something else on the SS board is malfunctioning causing too much power to pass through.
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