Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Yes that is!

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Yes it is! But this is the second time I'm typing this as it disappeared after I typed it?

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

OK, there are 4 DC Voltage test points, Black probe to the chassis, red probe to each one of those points when the TV is turn on and when it is turn off.

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Okay so I just wanna say that the cage that protects that board is off so I don't know if its still grounded correctly. But after I checked it at all the pins you asked while everything else is connected and with either power on and off they all read 0. Now should I be using the meter that reads 75/200 V? Or 1000/200/20/200m/2000m?

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

You should use the screws to mount the board back in place to get the ground connections. Your meter cannot do less than 75VDC? What kind of meter is this?

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Sorry that was 750/200. By the way the screws that will hold down the board are tiny, the only real way the boards contacts will make proper contact is if I bolt back on the cover, not sure I can take readings after?

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

This is what I'm working with

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

750/200 setting is for AC not for DC Voltage reading. The VDC mode is to the left of the meter mode selector knob. At this point you should read your meter manual how to use the meter first before going further. I cannot see clear scale on the VDC setting.
By the way, what kind of tools do you have for soldering?

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Well my brother here was saying that it was fine on the 750/200AC side, but I was testing it with 20 DC. which was the scale reading 2000m/200m/20/200/2000

I have a small butane one with tips that I never used before, but something makes me believe I will be using them soon? O should I use a conventional plug in type?

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Okay I think I have to call it a night, if there is something else you feel I should try, let me know. Thank you for your time up to now you've been amazing!

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Okay so I was looking at the pins you gave me to check for voltage. Looks like they run directly to the main power board, but, when I checked to see where they lead to, it wasn't what I think you were looking to see. I did however manage to see that there are four leads of the power board that go to four leads to this back light inverter board. So I am getting the 24V like it states, So this means we\re good there. Does this mean those darfon things are toast and how do I check?

[newtothis]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

OK firstly have you figured how to use your DMM?.. because no using AC tests for DC doesnt work... One is alt current other is direct.

Use 20 dc test for the connectors, test all pins as stated before and make sure you ground the black test probe to a screw Report the results back

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

OK, so the 24VDC power supply is working, but we need the DC reading of the other 3 pins I have marked, they are (cannot tell which pin is what right now) for Backlights On control pin, Dimming control pin, the third one I do not know. The main board may not be sending the BL_ON signal. Please read my Basic LCD TV troubleshooting guide to understand what it needs to work. Those 3 pins should change state when TV is powered on and powered off.

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Okay so I've tried the other pins as you asked from your diagram. There is nothing present 0V, and from the side you asked for me to check there was nothing, but the other side actually powers up on five the pins, these all lead to the main a/c board and they are stamped 24V on the bored, they all get 24.7V once I turn the tv on. The last pin when I follow to my A/C bored reads DIM but like I said its reading 0V. So there is no ON signal obviously, what do I do next?

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

That means the main board is the problem since it is not sending the BL_ON, DIMMING signals required by the inverter board to work. I do not have too much luck repairing the Insignia main board, you may be able to do some DC voltage checking of the voltage regulators.

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

I've all ready installed a brand new A/C power board, I figured with all the main fuses and bad capacitors everyoned talks about I went ahead and ordered a new board for $46 shipped? When you say main board do you mean power board?

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

It looks something like this:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/insignia-cb...aznkw1bynn.htm

[Daddyfixit]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Okay no that's not what I ordered? Okay so this essentially is my next purchase, I will order and keep you posted, thanks in advance for the help!

[budm]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

"The last pin when I follow to my A/C bored reads DIM but like I said its reading 0V" Just to be sure, you have the meter set to DC mode not AC, right?
What is " A/C bored"?

[logonsys]

Re: Insignia NS-LCD37 - One Second to Black - Another one

Hi everybody. I recieved a tv that is having the same problem and have read thru these threads. It's an Insignia NS-LCD37, when powered on the screen quickly shows "No Signal" then goes dark. Previous owner said it worked fine then one day, no picture, just sound. So, I opened it up, no obvious bad caps. I tested the power supply at the cable connectors and it reads voltages as printed on the board. I tested the inverter board and T1-T8 all show 2.2. I looked for F1, F2, and F3 assuming they are fuses and simply tested for continuity figuring a blown fuse would read zero, not sure how else to test them. Anyway, so far every things seems normal, any suggestions on what to try next? Trying to post a pic next but guarantee the quality will be pretty bad as it's an older cell phone camera. Thanks in advance!