I have placed the DMM probes to the LED DRV. pins and I have started it up, then I have touched the two pins on that opto and for a second the light bulb(I have a short circuit tester with a 100W bulb) turned on and then off. Then the V Led did not tun on. All this time the voltage haven't changed, stayed at 0.009V.
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No. I measure 0.009V at the LEDs. At one connector the voltages are positive and at the other are negative. I'm affraid to toch again the opto. It will take more then two weeks to get new ICs.
Do you mean on the bezel? If yes ,then yes the same as before two long and five short blinks.
Should I take the LCD apart to check for bad LED?
No. 2 long & 5 short is 12V panel power, i.e. t-con problem or LCD panel short.
Disconnect both of the flat cables between the t-con and the panel, then power it on. What happens?
I have tried disconnecting each cable at a time from the T-con, with no change.
At this time I'm suspecting the LEDs in the panel.
I will take it apart.
Replacement power supply/inverter board didn't change anything(hopefully it was a good board from partstore), removing the EEPROM didn't change anything, there is only the LCD panel left.
I do not think it will be bad LED assemblies since there are at least two strings of LED and I doubt that both of them went bad at the same time. Iworked on LED backlights monitor last week and one of the pin on the connector for one of the sting was bent, the other string still lights up.
What else can I try?
I'm becoming frustrated, I have three monitors(2 small TVs) and three TVs that I'm having a hard time fixing them.
42" LG shorted PS, 42" Philips 7422D/37 no power, 24" Asus w/blown components, 22" LG M2262, 22" Samsung w/mystery PWM chip.
Last week I had same model 60" (two long 5 short). SHARP 60" has full 4 LED strings .Problem was Only 1 single led of one string. Tv was very hard to disassemble , because of the size (very fragile to ) Hope this helps.
Backlight diodes http://www.sharpsma.com/lighting/led...es/GM2BB45BMAC
I will give it a try. Thank you.
I guess it would be very good if we could start the inverter to make sure that it starts, but I don't know how come last time blew that IC.
You are sure that that's the opto for that?
As you can see, there are two transformers that supply the power to the LED strings, one per string, It has to be some thing in that LED drive power supply whcih is common to both strings. Bothe transfoemrs primary are connected in series and driven by the the same set of MSOFETs Q7601A/7601A setup as a half bridge drive. Which IC that you blow when you short the Opto? U????
So what voltage do you at pin 19 and 16 of the DDA002? The one in the primary side that drives the 2 MOSFET's.
And what is the P/N of the Optos that you hsorted the pins?
I have tried disconnecting each cable at a time from the T-con, with no change.
At this time I'm suspecting the LEDs in the panel.
I will take it apart.
Replacement power supply/inverter board didn't change anything(hopefully it was a good board from partstore), removing the EEPROM didn't change anything, there is only the LCD panel left.
2 long, 5 short error rarely has anything to do with the backlights. If the power board is good, and you get the same error code with *both* cables between t-con and panel disconnected, that leaves the t-con board or LVDS cable.
Post 191 "Last week I had same model 60" (two long 5 short). SHARP 60" has full 4 LED strings .Problem was Only 1 single led of one string"
Post 197 "2 long, 5 short error rarely has anything to do with the backlights. If the power board is good, and you get the same error code with *both* cables between t-con and panel disconnected, that leaves the t-con board or LVDS cable.
Bad backlights give 1 long, 1 short error code"
Which one is the correct one? Looks like I will have to download the service manual to find out.
In the mean time, cam you leave the meter on pin16 and see if the VCC voltage even jumps up when you first turn on the TV, that way we can tell if it even try to turn on.
So right now we are working on the replacement board that you installed because the old one will not always get the 5 and 12V output. And the voltage on the two large caps on primary side does not jump up to 400V either?
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