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Alohamora
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Last Activity: 06-08-2013, 03:29 PM
Joined: 08-17-2012
Location: IL
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  • Re: sharp lc-c5255u only blink codes no picture



    2 power, 5 opc led blink code is an error in the 12 volt panel power. A broken and shorted screen [B]is[/B] a frequent cause of this error. If the LCD screen is OK, it can be a short on the t-con board as well. In this case, the rest of the boards are likely to be OK.

    (2 long, 5 short also means the same thing)Re: sharp lc-c5255u only blink codes no picture



    2 power, 5 opc led blink code is an error in the 12 volt panel power. A broken and shorted screen [B]is[/B] a frequent
    ...
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  • Re: sharp lc-c5255u only blink codes no picture



    Yes those are configuration jumpers. Inserting the jumper opens up a set of contacts....
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  • Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question



    Yes, I am agreeing with what you suggested in post #206 and 207. Check for the panel 12V on the PL connector.

    Now that I've re-read the earlier posts, I see that it has the same error code with both power boards, that is why I assumed it would not be a power board issue.


    T-con and LVDS cable remain the most likely causes of the error code.

    Tibimakai -
    I thought back in post #144 you said there is 3V on the PS_ON line?...
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    Last edited by Alohamora; 10-13-2012, 12:36 AM.

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  • Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question



    Where did I get that? Right on the page you referenced.

    Section 2 on that page says one slow flash and one fast flash is a lamp (backlight) error.

    Fourth item down in sections 3 says that 2 slow blinks and 5 fast blinks is 12V panel power. (12V panel power is the t-con and LCD power, nothing to do with the backlight)...
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  • Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question



    Once the unit shuts off with any error code, there will not be any voltage present to the main board, other than the 5V standby. You only have a very short time to check for the panel 12v. I was assuming you got a replacement power board from a reliable source and we could assume it was OK? We all know what you get when you assume too much....
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    Last edited by Alohamora; 10-12-2012, 07:18 PM.

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  • Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question



    2 long, 5 short error rarely has anything to do with the backlights. If the power board is good, and you get the same error code with *both* cables between t-con and panel disconnected, that leaves the t-con board or LVDS cable.

    Bad backlights give 1 long, 1 short error code....
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  • Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question



    No. 2 long & 5 short is 12V panel power, i.e. t-con problem or LCD panel short.
    Disconnect both of the flat cables between the t-con and the panel, then power it on. What happens?...
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  • Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW horizontal blue lines

    pictures? full screen and closeup if you can.
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  • Re: Vertical Multicolored Lines Viewsonic LCD



    In my experience (which is entirely with one particular brand of LCD TV) that would more likely be the LCD timing control board, or even the main board, than the LCD panel. A bad cable connection is also possible....
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  • Re: Vertical Multicolored Lines Viewsonic LCD

    What does it look like when you have a video source hooked up? Do you get any video? Do the lines always stay in the same spot or do they move around?
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  • Re: Soldering Iron sizing

    Everyone laughs at RadioShack soldering irons, but I have a 15W RS iron that works perfectly for soldering tiny surface mount parts (not that I do much SMD). Judging by appearances, the 15W iron is better made than the ordinary RS 25w iron. I inherited two 25W Weller irons from my father, I put a conical tip on one and a chisel tip on the other and used those 2 for many years. But, the Wellers are not getting as much use since I got a 25W xytronic iron. I don't remember where I got it, but it's really quite good for average through hole soldering.
    ...
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  • Re: Broken Dell 1800FP Power Supply - when and when not to resolder?

    I ran into a 3rd dead 1800fp and could couldn't resist buying it for $5 (goodwill), even though I still haven't found a home for the other 2 I fixed.

    This one had a shorted ICE chip, which I replaced, but it still didn't work. D906 and D903 had crappy soldering so I re-flowed them. F901 was blown. It helped to have a working power supply to compare to and also the schematic and I have found that Q902 is shorted.

    Q902 is a 11N60C3. My question is if there is some other common IC that...
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  • Re: Fluke 27 possibly for $10 on ebay



    Whenever I deal on ebay, I always add in the shipping and consider the total delivered cost. With patience, these meters can still be found at good prices.

    I'm really happy with the 2 Fluke 27/FMs I bought. I got both within a week from the same seller and they did combine shipping so my average per meter was $35 (including shipping). One looks nearly new and the other does have some minor wear markings.

    The meter is slow to power on, I'll flip the switch and have just enough time to see the blank display...
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    Last edited by Alohamora; 09-08-2012, 12:08 PM.

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  • Re: Cheap but not too awful test leads?



    [URL="http://www.ul.com/global/eng/pages/offerings/services/programs/anticounterfeitingoperations/fake/"]UL - how to spot fakes[/URL] Hmm, no control number?



    Compared to the leads that came with my Fluke 27 for example. The photo attached shows the Totaline/Summit above the Fluke 27 leads. Also better than the leads on my Extech and Mastech meters.

    (BTW, many thanks to retiredcaps for pointing out the Fluke 27 deals on ebay in a different thread!)



    ...
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  • Re: Anyone try building a ESR meter with Arduino

    I have no opinion on the soundness of the design, but do let us know how it works out if you try it.
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  • Re: Cheap but not too awful test leads?

    I ended up buying the total line probes and they arrived today. The brand name molded on the probe is "Summit". The plastic protector does unscrew, leaving a conventional looking probe tip exposed (sharp points). The probe handle is marked 1000V Cat III and 600V Cat IV, 10A. Also the probes have the CE mark, the UL mark and the two squares, one inside the other (what's this mean? I have seen it on other electronics, hard to google it when I don't have a name for the marking). They look and feel well made.
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  • Re: Cheap but not too awful test leads?

    Eventually, I'm finding Mastech, Uni-T and Extech leads all in the 6 to 10 dollar range. Just so much junk to sort past in the low $ ranges.

    Mastech [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Meter-test-probe-lead-for-digital-multimeter-for-tester-such-fluke-etc-/330732891959[/url]

    Uni-T [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/150812077333?[/url]

    Extech [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXTECH-General-Purpose-Test-Leads-NEW-/190720100404[/url]

    I'm still interested in the Totaline ones because they claim to be...
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    Last edited by Alohamora; 09-01-2012, 03:01 PM.

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  • Re: Cheap but not too awful test leads?



    Thank you for spotting the probe tips, I didn't notice that in the close-up photo.

    However, you are making assumptions about my equipment and requirements. What if I just bought a good quality used meter that came without leads? I am not a professional, but I do have enough formal education and experience to be aware of the limitations of my equipment (and my own limitations)....
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  • Re: Cheap but not too awful test leads?

    If the non-tangling ones are silicone, then silicone is what I want to get. (I have a set like that on one meter)

    This looks interesting, UL listed, silicone, from a US source. This is the first one I found that actually meets my budget. [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIP-Set-of-UL-listed-silicone-test-leads-FREE-SHIPPING-/251142184904[/url]

    Googling the part number I didn't find much about them except the company's catalog.Re: Cheap but not too awful test lea... are silicone,
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  • Re: Low capacitance meter suggestion



    DM4070 - I bought one of those about 3 years ago, when I was taking some community college electronics courses. The most annoying thing is that it only measures up to 2000uF capacitance, I would look for a 20,000uF range if I was shopping for a another meter today. The resistance ranges seems seem spot on when measuring some precision resisters and brand new caps measure close to their rated values, so I have no complaints about it's performance. (but I'm far from an expert).

    The feel of the meter is Ok, not horrible...
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