Sharp Aquos 32"

Collapse
X
Collapse
+ More Options
Latest Activity
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Got all the required voltages on the board but no 400V, I think theres a problem with the PFC controller or 400 V rectifier as the voltages fluctuated a fair bit, PFC ON/OFF is working.
    Last edited by rigeback; 02-10-2012, 04:40 PM. Reason: wrong info

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Originally posted by rigeback
    Does the power board upside down have to be grounded to the TV chassis to attain the correct high voltages, i.e 400V on both ends of the buck cap? I seem to have lost high voltage on PFC circuit!
    Nope. Should still be there even without it.

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Does the power board upside down have to be grounded to the TV chassis to attain the correct high voltages, i.e 400V on both ends of the buck cap? I seem to have lost high voltage on PFC circuit!

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    No problem, I've been reading a fair bit about this switching device although I am still trying to figure out what malfunctioned to not reset the timer, it could be the fly back transformer which I still have to remove from the board to test.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Sorry for the delay, rigeback. I've just been very busy with school and work and so I haven't had much time to dig more deeply into the circuit diagrams for your PSU. I'll see if I can find something in them later this week, hopefully.

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Please can some one help with this PSU since it was working well before a timer kicked in and shut down the back lights and 12V main board supply.
    I would like to also know how to test the fly back switching transformer in case it has a problem?
    The PSU still powers up with the red led on although when I switch on it goes to green briefly and and back to red, when its green there is 12 volts!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by rigeback; 02-03-2012, 10:39 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Well it seems I've lost all the high voltages on the board 5 Volts Max, back to the
    ANT+5V rail IC1703 which is receiving the 5V but the out put is 0.80 the spec says 4.8V pin5 and 3.8V pin1.
    Of course this depends on if Mr. Momaka or someone wants to continue trouble shooting with me otherwise we can call it quits, no worries!
    The immediate root cause could be easier to identify at this stage and removing IC1703 or other IC's for testing out of circuit might be the answer.

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Yeh well I don't want any fires in my house so I've removed the jumper and re tested the voltage out put which is correct while the green light is illuminated, the problem continues to be associated with suspend power on switching I believe!

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Originally posted by rigeback
    Well that tells me a whole lot, so it will work now without testing or repairing anything!
    Ehhhhh - it will work for a while. Then something will fail - maybe in a BAD manner.

    Shortly after Edison invented the electric light bulb and people started using them in their homes someone decided that instead of buying an expensive fuse to replace the one that blew for no reason at all, he's just jumper it with a piece of wire. Shortly after that the local fire department put out their first electrical fire.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Well that tells me a whole lot, so it will work now without testing or repairing anything!

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Originally posted by rigeback
    Quick question regarding the PSU page 78 of the manual- FOR DISABLING PROTECTIONS AND BE ABLE TO REPAIR INVERTER, GROUND IC7500 PIN NĀŗ1- I did this but there is still 36+ Volts on some of the caps etc?
    That's what I would expect. You are disabling the protection so it continues to operate.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Quick question regarding the PSU page 78 of the manual- FOR DISABLING PROTECTIONS AND BE ABLE TO REPAIR INVERTER, GROUND IC7500 PIN NĀŗ1- I did this but there is still 36+ Volts on some of the caps etc?

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    New problem today! lamps don't come on and the TV goes into suspend mode shortly after switching on, with the screen connected or disconnected, No power coming from PSU, Fuses seem okay??? Looks like will have to remove the PSU to see the underside tomorrow

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Originally posted by PlainBill
    Om several occasions I have encountered LCD displays that appeared to have a hole burned into the LCD panel. I concluded that something (a transistor?) in the panel itself had shorted, destroying itself and the surrounding area.

    It certainly sounds like something like that has happened here.

    PlainBill
    Well I'm not sure thats the case here because I tried the screen while connected with 1 ribbon and bingo half the screen was working and then I managed to swap sides of the screen with the controler in total white mode and then to contrast. I checked the voltages and all were present in this trial. I admit I didn't get a picture but it seems the screen functions.

    When I connected ribbon 2 I had a total white screen for a while and within 2 minutes the TV entered standby, restarted and its back to square one 0.60V power on the t-con and screen panel. Theres a short some where I think??

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Om several occasions I have encountered LCD displays that appeared to have a hole burned into the LCD panel. I concluded that something (a transistor?) in the panel itself had shorted, destroying itself and the surrounding area.

    It certainly sounds like something like that has happened here.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Take a 100 Ohm resistor, connect one side to any voltage rail that is more than 1.8V (for example, B+3.3V, BU+5V, or BU+3.3V, and etc.). Connect the other side of the resistor to pin 1 of IC1725. This should turn ON ANT+5V. If the TV still doesn't work, then I don't know.
    So I hooked up 3.3V to IC1725 on pin 1 with 100 Ohm resistor although I see I'm only getting 1.75V on pin 1 maybe the resistor is wrong! I don't see any improvement to screen while connected to DVB box!
    When I connect the screen with the ribbon connectors the t-con area goes dead at test points VCC3.3V, VCC1.5V, VGH35V and VGL-6V otherwise the board seems to work as it should???
    Anyway the fact remains that when I connect the screen the t-con area goes dead including VLS 15V and close by D8403 & L8401. I followed the power lines on (Main 10/13 (POWER) Schematic Diagram) testing all the components and no joy, can't source the defective part!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Why? Is the 3.3V on the t-con not present?
    When I connect the screen with the ribbon connectors the t-con area goes dead at test points VCC3.3V, VCC1.5V, VGH35V and VGL-6V otherwise the board seems to work as it should???

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    Originally posted by rigeback
    You'll have to explain this part more clearly as I didn't understand from where to where I should hook up the bypass, which is cool by me.
    Take a 100 Ohm resistor, connect one side to any voltage rail that is more than 1.8V (for example, B+3.3V, BU+5V, or BU+3.3V, and etc.). Connect the other side of the resistor to pin 1 of IC1725. This should turn ON ANT+5V. If the TV still doesn't work, then I don't know.

    Originally posted by rigeback
    I have measured the voltages on IC2302 as follows: 5=3.25V 19=3.25V
    24=2.21V 25=2.21V 26=3.06V 27=2.91V 28=3.22V 30=3.22V 31=3.21V 32=0.01V 45=0.01V 46=0.01V 47=3.20V 50=0.03V 51=0.20V
    The voltages on pins 5 and 19 are good. That aside, I don't know if any of the other voltages are good or not.
    I can't seem to find that bit of information in the data sheet for IC2302 again.

    Based on the pin names, my best guess would be that the voltage on pins 24, 25, and 26 need to be low (under 1V) and the voltages on pins 30, 31, and 32 all the same, and low as well. Pin 45, 46, 47, 50, and 51 high (over 2.5V).

    But again, all of that above is *entirely* my guess. I don't know if pulling any of the above pins low/high with a resistor can cause more damage.

    Originally posted by rigeback
    Shorting between pin 47 & 48 also suspends the lamps same as with IC2303.
    I don't advise you do that. Not sure what pin 48 (PCON1) does. Pin 47 (PS_ON) controls when the PSU turns on.

    Originally posted by rigeback
    Would be possible to eliminate the suspend mode to off and on, I think they use this mode in some hotels, no suspend mode to save power?
    I don't think it's possible (and if it is, it's probably very hard).

    Originally posted by rigeback
    I want to try connecting a jumper between the live 3V line and the t-con area 3.3V with an in-line 1AMP fuse to see the video can power the screen.
    Why? Is the 3.3V on the t-con not present?

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    I want to try connecting a jumper between the live 3V line and the t-con area 3.3V with an in-line 1AMP fuse to see the video can power the screen.
    Any comments and ideas appreciated from everyone.
    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • rigeback
    replied
    Re: Sharp Aquos 32"

    I found the board for 34 pounds today unfortunately all sold out including 2 other sites so I'm stuck with repairing it some how!
    Looking at the schematics IC2303 supplies power to IC2601 which the sends a signal to the main CPU (MY THEORY) anyway on one side it gets 2.20V and 3.24V on the center pin, on the other side nothing on both pins?
    I attached the data for IC 2303 so maybe you can make more sense of it, seems the IC might need programming to reset all the suspend timings etc?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • scubacamper
    Sharp Aquos LC-70C6400U Half Screen Dark
    by scubacamper
    I found another post on this site the other day which has been very helpful in troubleshooting this issue I am having with my tv. The left half of the screen is dark, and the other half is VERY slow to generate it's image - and it only generates part of its image at that.
    Based on this yt video, I have narrowed it down to an issue (short?) on the left side of the display, somewhere in the system of ribbon cables.
    when I remove the bezel and the rear cover, I can get the image to display correctly by manipulating the ribbon cables on the left side which connects the left lower display...
    05-03-2025, 12:19 PM
  • sefoster
    Sharp Aquos Lc-80LE757U flashing Sharp on screen when plugged in
    by sefoster
    I have a Sharp Aquos LC-80LE757U that randomly made a loud popping noise when when watching TV one day. We found that the fuse blew and the thermistor. We ended up replacing the entire power supply board and have also replaced the TCON board. Now as soon as I plug the TV in it lights up and has the Sharp logo flashing on and off of the screen. If I unplug the ribbon cable from the TCON board to the main board I get the 2 long 5 short error code. Any ideas on where to go from here? We've tried resetting it but nothing has worked. If we plug it in and let it cycle through the flashing of the Sharp...
    11-20-2022, 09:29 AM
  • jonah1024
    Sharp Aquos LC-40UG7252E LCD TV burn in?
    by jonah1024
    Hello!

    I'm a few days old into this TV screens repair universe so please bear with me.

    Recently, and all of a sudden my 40ā€ 4K Sharp Aquos LCD TV turned on with colors all smudged in some places on the screen that remain like that even without any kind of video source. I do have image but the colors are smudged/tinted/ washed out in patches as per defects. This to me looks similar to burn in but I’m shore this is not an OLED.

    - I did the classic unplug and hold power button to discharge the caps but it didn't help.
    - I did a factory reset as well...
    07-16-2024, 04:23 AM
  • klassic
    Sharp Aquos LC-60LE635E three blinks
    by klassic
    Hi community,

    I will describe my problem with a TV in those short following terms to be the most precise :

    What i have :
    Sharp Aquos LC-60LE635E
    power board DPS-162KP-1
    main logic board QPWBXF733WJN2

    symptoms :
    white led light logo at startup,
    after 2 minutes, blinking 3 times a row, repeating
    no backlight (and apparently no picture, checked panel with flashlight)
    no startup sound

    powerboard investigations :

    1-2 PNL : 0v
    3-4 GND
    5-6-7-8 UR : 13.15v
    9-10-11-12...
    10-24-2023, 01:39 PM
  • foxyUK
    Sharp Aquos LC-32LE600E, No 12v as no PNL_POW
    by foxyUK
    Can anyone help me diagnose this? Almost not worth bothering with, but it has 'sentimental value' for the owner. I'm no TV technician, but dabble a bit.
    The TV has standby power but no reaction at all to switching on or reboot steps, No flashing lights or response to menu button. All voltages on the power board are correct apart from missing voltage on pin 12 of CN7003.
    There is 13 v on U7053 but no 3v signal to switch it on. I don't really understand whether the 3v should come from U7401 in the standby control area, or (as suggested elsewhere) from the mainboard via pin 12....
    10-22-2024, 10:27 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...