Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
This one had an HER 304 in it. It tested fine but for the heck of it, I changed it out with another HER304. I'm running out of ideas. There has to be a reason why this board LED is on. By the way, I checked some other threads here and there was one mention of this LED blinking. This is not the case with this set as it is on steady. As I stated before, when this set is working, the LED is off. This must be some diagnostic LED that the service manual would explain probably - If there is one.
Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I repaired a tv with the same power supply, it was an acoustic solutions brand tv, the doide as mentioned earlier in the post was shorted, I replaced with a much larger 600v diode that I had already, set worked great for a few days but has now gone short also! the fitted diode was HER304, I replaced it with 6A4MIC which is rated at 600v, anyway I have ordered HER305 in the hope that the one I fitted was not upto the job? fingers crossed nothing else is messing the diode up!
RonnieLeave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I would love to find a schematic of this board but I never could find one. I'll keep searching components on this board.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
OK.... an update to this...
After this was sitting for a while I got to power this set up and it still comes up intermittently. I had 12V on pin 13 of IC8 the PWM chip UNTIL the set went out and the LED (D13) came on. This LED has to be some kind of clue. This LED (bottom left hand corner of power supply board) stays off when the unit is working then comes on when the unit fails???Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Well, I left this unit on all night long and it stayed on. I shut it down and now it wont start back up at all. This is good. This is what I wanted. It wasn't broke enough before.
In comparison to the poster above, my voltage read:
.................. OFF ...........................ON (FAILED STATE-NO BACKLIGHTS)
STB .............. 0 ............................4.68
5VSB.............. 5............................. 5
5V .................0 ............................. 5
12V ...............0..............................12
20V............... 0...............................25
By the way, I have no red LED on the power supply board. You'll find this in the bottom left hand corner of the power supply board pic above. Another clue is that no pins of the PWM chip (IC8) have any voltages on it (nothing significant). NO VCC VOLTAGELast edited by Dgtech; 05-15-2011, 08:53 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I have one of these sets now.
Here's what I had originally:
Unit was not comming out of standby at all. No backlights.
Found bad caps for backlight circuit (2 X 10uF @ 450V) replaced with Rubycons.
Checked all remaining caps on secondary of power supply, all within tolerance. Changed a few that were a little low for my liking.
Here's what I got now:
Unit now powers up but goes out right away until unit is warmed up, then it will stay on for a while. I got the unit on right now and I'll leave it on overnight. I hope it will die completely so I can find the problem easier.
Standby voltage = 5vdc both when backlight is on as well as off - so it's not going into standby. Even the stanby LED does not change when unit backlights fail.
I checked solder joints on the transformers that feed the backlights.
I havent used the flashlight to check image yet only because - i got to find my damn flashlight... moving sucks!!!
I will post more info tomorrow as well as pictures.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Works great. Thanks for the help.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Nothing is wrong but they are 1.20 a piece so why not change them since they are known to be an issue on these psu. The fuse are the same amps, voltage and delay just bigger. There is definitely room in there.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
The larger fuses (in size) should not cause any problem. I would not change the amperage any though. I'd put in a fast blow with the same amperage fuse. I dont recall what the amperage was on the original fuse though. I do remember this fuse is in the center of the board near a transformer. It's not too crowded there. It can be done with caution.
What was wrong with the transistor that you're changing? Which one is it?Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I have one of these tv's with the same issues. The previous owner tried replacing the caps but it did not fix it. I found the F2 fuse was bad. Does it matter if I replace it with a 5x20 (radio shack) and add my own pigtails? I am going to replace the transistors and plan on ordering the correct fuse as well but would like to get it going to make sure it works before I do. So would those larger fuses cause any issues? They are 3.15A 250v slow-blow. A veteran mentioned they were time-delay which i believe is the same?Last edited by nfiniti9; 05-14-2011, 01:17 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I had one of these and all I found the problem to be in my case was a diode. Here is my post.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12886
It beat buying a new board at about $80. The diode was only $3.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I have the same TV with the same issue. These TV's are notorious for bad main boards (not power supply, but tuner board). Ordering these from Shopjimmy.com or discountmerchant.com can be frustrating because they say they test the boards that they can but how do they test. Shopjimmy has over 100 test tv's but there are 1000's of boards so not all get tested. And they usually get these from cracked screen units. So it is a tough gamble guying from these tear down distributors. You will think you have a problem solved, get a "new" part and that "new" part as the same issue, so you buy a million other parts and it turns out it was just a faulty main board the first time and the time you ordered a "new" one. so spend the extra $$. Verify the tv works with a "good" part. If so order a cheaper one and send back expensive one. Just so you are 100% sure of the problem.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
No, it always stays red. I try the I/0 main control and also the remote and no dice....it will not go blue. It was a used main board that I purchased online, but it has a 30 day warranty, so I will be sending it back. Thanks for the link, I will check it out.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
does the red light changes to blue when you press power? if not,there could be a main board problem,but you said that you've changed.It's the same number?I,have found problems in the audio output,and that causes the tv to shutdown.. you can check this ---->http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/sear...max-results=28
Hope this help..Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Does anyone have any other experiences or insights that they can share on this one? It seems strange that with two different main boards that I am having the same symptoms.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
I just bought a main board and installed it today. After the install, it has the same issue as the one I removed.Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Hi all,
I am having a problem with my Poloroid TDA - 03211C with Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8. I get a red led on the front, but it doesn't power on. Upon taking off the back to get voltages, I noticed that the caps at EC17 and EC 18 were blown. I ordered new caps from Digakey and also order new FET's at Q16 and Q17 and replaced all of them. I replaced the filter cap too with a new high temp Panasonic. After getting everythig back together, here are the voltages that I have from the pins....just nothing is powering on:
STB= 4.83
5STB= 5.13
5V=5.13
12V=11.78
20V= 23.98v
Also, the filter cap, when the main board and inverter is attached to the power board, it swells to 400V and holds steady on the reading. When I disconnect everything except the power, the filter caps is steady at 167volts. I have attached some pics. Any ideas or questions to help me along would be welcome!!
It's time to look at the main board. There are no relays on this power supply to make noise. I'm not sure about the LED, there is no indication of what it indicates.
PlainBillLeave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Forgot to add this in the post, but I am wondering if the board isn't hitting a threshold voltage, i.e. above 5 volts and above 12 volts, therefore it is sensing that it is under and shutting down. Any thoughts on that?Leave a comment:
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Re: Poloroid TDA -03211C- - - -Power Board IPOS 150 Ver. 1.8
Yes, the standby light is lit on the front. It is glowing red, but when I push the button, it doesn't turn on. No backlights, no relay hiccups, no nothing. There is also a red led on the power board located in the lower left corner that isn't illuminated. You can see it in my attached pics.Leave a comment:
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