TCL 55S451 Blank screen

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by nomoresonys
    Capital M for megaohms, small m for milliohms.
    Thanks for the clarification. I used my other meter and it displayed the capital M as well, but I did notice the readings started out in K ohm and climbed up into the M range. Is it okay then that they are reading that way or should I suspect an issue with one or more?

    I still need to get a picture of the lines I blocked off on the ribbon. I didn't get a chance to do it last night.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    Capital M for megaohms, small m for milliohms.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    And how do you determine that it shows Om, kOm, MOm?
    I looked at the owners manual online and it doesn't help. That's all I know is it says ex. 5.00 M ohm

    I thought that if they read anything other than OL they would be suspect and one bad can make others read bad when they're not. I have another older meter I try and see if it's different.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    And how do you determine that it shows Om, kOm, MOm?

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas

    I can't understand what resistance is, what is it in megaohms, milliohms...?
    Here is my meter:

    https://www.innova.com/products/hand...10-megohm-3306

    It's an auto ranging 10 MegOhm meter. It's "M" not "m" on my display, don't know if that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by x_orange90_x
    Attached is a picture of the readings I got, going from the left side of the strip to the right. The caps not listed read OL. I'm guessing probably only one cap is bad but pulling down the others? I notice that all that read low are positioned in the middle of the strip instead of near the top where most of the others are.
    I can’t understand what resistance is, what is it in megaohms, milliohms...?

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    Well then, compare with the working strip what resistance they have on the capacitors, you just need to disconnect the cables going to the t-con. You may have masked more contacts than required, and now power is not supplied to the non-working strip, but I don’t see what you masked there, maybe half of the cable is masked there.
    You reminded me just now, I did check them on the working side and they all read OL.
    Last edited by x_orange90_x; 12-10-2023, 01:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Well then, compare with the working strip what resistance they have on the capacitors, you just need to disconnect the cables going to the t-con. You may have masked more contacts than required, and now power is not supplied to the non-working strip, but I don’t see what you masked there, maybe half of the cable is masked there.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    If none of the capacitors have low resistance (in Om), then they are fine, show where you masked the contacts.
    Are those readings normal then despite the others reading OL?

    I will try to get you a picture of what I masked off. It was on the main board side of the ribbon but that should't matter since I pinned the traces for continuity.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    If none of the capacitors have low resistance (in Om), then they are fine, show where you masked the contacts.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Attached is a picture of the readings I got, going from the left side of the strip to the right. The caps not listed read OL. I'm guessing probably only one cap is bad but pulling down the others? I notice that all that read low are positioned in the middle of the strip instead of near the top where most of the others are.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    Yes, now you can see that there are no protective diode assemblies here; you checked the ceramic capacitors for low resistance with the cable disconnected.
    I don't think it was unplugged. I can recheck them.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Yes, now you can see that there are no protective diode assemblies here; you checked the ceramic capacitors for low resistance with the cable disconnected.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    Yes, I’m interested in the very edge of this bar, what components are located on it.
    Here are the pictures. The one with the black tape is the end you asked about.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Yes, I’m interested in the very edge of this bar, what components are located on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    And you can see this entire bar; this chip is a spi flash.
    I will get a photo of the whole bar later when I get home. Is there something specific you're looking for? I can try to get a close up of it if so.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    And you can see this entire bar; this chip is a spi flash.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas
    Post a photo in full, in good quality, of the faulty buffer strip and your photo, which contacts you masked.
    Here's some photos of that side. I need to get another of the outside edge but this is a start. Also, I used my multimeter on continuity and touched one probe to CKV test point and the other to the pins on the ribbon. I determined it's lines 4-12 and blocked those off, that's how I got the grey screen on that side.

    I also attached a screenshot of the pinout for that chip.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Post a photo in full, in good quality, of the faulty buffer strip and your photo, which contacts you masked.

    Leave a comment:


  • x_orange90_x
    replied
    Update! I disconnected the right side ribbon and got an image on the left side! I did this probably a dozen times before and didn't get an image but now I do. I checked all of the resistors on that sides scaler and they all tested good, and so did the caps. I pinned out the CKV lines and blocked them off but I just get a gray image on that side and the left side is fine. Is there something else that needs to be taped off along with the clock lines?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • m1ch43lzm
    HP Pavilion 15-eh Board DAG7HAMB8F0 - CPU throttling to 0.4GHz (PROCHOT_EXT) and black screen
    by m1ch43lzm
    Hi, this is my personal laptop, which the original board (lets call it Board A) blew up PU8700 (TPS51486), making a hole on the board, i had left the laptop at my desk one day with the battery fully charged and didn't touch it for a week, but when i tried to turn it on it didn't
    Thought the battery was dead, so i plugged in the charger then tried to power on, the power LED blinked once, charged LED still orange, unplugged the charger, plugged in again and I noticed the "magic smoke" smell, so i unplugged the charger, removed the back cover and saw the blown IC (the "magic...
    05-12-2025, 08:37 PM
  • jb_Bak
    Sony xbr-65x900c main board issues?
    by jb_Bak
    Hey guys great forum glad to have found it. I bought a Sony XBR 65X900C cheaply because it didn't work. No signs of life at all not even a light/led. All I hear is a brief high voltage sound when I throw the power to it.

    Didn't see any obvious signs of damage so right away started checking voltages. This is what I see:
    Power Board Connector that goes to Main board
    CN6401
    Pin 01 NC
    Pin 02 NC
    Pin 03 "BL_ON": 0V
    Pin 04 "N/C"
    Pin 05 "STBY 3.3V": 3.5V
    Pin 06 "GND": N/C
    Pin 07 "AC_OFF"...
    09-27-2021, 04:52 PM
  • JDC
    (SOLVED) - ONN 100012588 No Power, Then Rebooting After Main Board Change
    by JDC
    ONN 100012588
    Issue: No Power, Then Rebooting After Main Board Change

    Short answer: replace main board and power board
    Technical answer: replace main board and Q306 & Q307 on power board.

    Long answer:

    TV wouldn't turn on. Power switch was fine which means the main board isn't processing the power on signal. Replaced main board. TV turns on now but randomly reboots. Bad main board? EEPROM? Tried to pull main board and got a shock touching the corner of the board. That's weird. C334 (450V 10uf) capacitor is still holding a high charge....
    07-15-2022, 07:39 AM
  • advant
    Driving a Sharp TCON/panel with a universal main board
    by advant
    This thread is about trying to get an Universal Main Board to work with a Sharp TCON and panel.

    I have a Sharp LC-46D85UN TV that has had a main board issue. Since this model is from 2009, I am not able to find an exact replacement of the main board. Instead, I decided to see if I can future proof this tv by getting a Universal Main Board (T53U21.2) from China to work with the Sharp TCON (CPWBX4291TPZA) and panel. The universal main board supports a 8 bit dual channel LVDS interface whereas the TCON requires a 10 bit dual channel LVDS input. I have modded the LVDS connector to match...
    02-03-2020, 12:25 AM
  • Asraf Atb
    Help Needed: Samsung UE55MU8000 Dead - Possible Main Board Issue
    by Asraf Atb
    Hi everyone,

    Im looking for some advice regarding my Samsung UE55MU8000 TV with main board model BN94-11606C. The TV suddenly stopped turning on and now shows no signs of life at all not even the standby light at the bottom.

    Initially, I suspected an issue with the PSU, so I took it to a repair center. They tested it and confirmed that the PSU works perfectly, even on other TVs. Based on that, I started investigating the main board.

    I disconnected the main board from the PSU, and the backlight turned on, which seems to confirm the main board is the issue....
    01-27-2025, 05:02 PM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...