Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

If these are T6, T7 they have D13007K on them.

Is D15 a diode you're speaking of?

[redwire]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

There's many different ways to troubleshoot something. You can take measurements with power on, you can remove parts and test them.
You can guess the bad parts and change them. Some people start at the beginning or middle and work through a circuit.

To test the two power transistors, there are a zillion websites and youtube videos on how to do that. I would put the multimeter on diode-test and see what you get with them in-circuit (power is off!). You could compare readings between the two of them. The D13007K transistor does not have an internal C-E diode (there is one in the circuit).

Is this connection to the fuse OK? It didn't look right.

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

My main thing is safety. How can I take every precaution? I may not have sufficient multimeter tool. Best/safest way to test the components. I will research. Off topic, total noob.

**edit ** just read

I would like to be able to test each component on the board once T5, T6, T7 , C8 and others.

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

The D13007K transistor does not have an internal C-E diode (there is one in the circuit).

Is this a good thing?

Is this connection to the fuse OK?

What do you think it should read? I believe it read 0.04 ohms when I tested it.

[Per Hansson]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

The fuse seems to check good.
Check if you have DC voltage on the input capacitors It will be around 160VDC. Be very carefull, this is the a/c line side of the power supply

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

One thing you should do before you start

Mark every wire that is hook to this board with a label machine so you can work on a table with it

Even if you decided to take all of the component units out of the wine cooler still mark all wires on the board so that if you have to remove a wire to do testing you know where it went

This is what I do when I have to work on a board that has that many connection and I also take pictures of the board with the labels on it

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

One thing you should do before you start

Mark every wire that is hook to this board with a label machine so you can work on a table with it

Even if you decided to take all of the component units out of the wine cooler still mark all wires on the board so that if you have to remove a wire to do testing you know where it went

This is what I do when I have to work on a board that has that many connection and I also take pictures of the board with the labels on it

I'm not 100% here, mark every wire how? Should I mark the connector it went in too? If I take a wire out how would I put it back in?

I would like to work on a table with it.

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

So, picture 2 is the same as pic 1 just front/back . I should check voltage? I understand its dangerous. How can I be safe? Gloves?

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

I checked the rectifier ac voltage and it sparked twice... should my multimeter be the other way? Spot looks burnt now

I tried multimeter with red in the other slot and it didnt spark, no reading or rather went from ~50 to 0 quickly.

Fuse looks good

[petehall347]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

your meter is set up wrong .no wonder there was sparking .put red into volt ohms .black to common .
p.s fuse in the meter might be blown now plus maybe more damage to it .

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

I checked before spark with correct meter setup with no reading

[petehall347]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

test your meter with known good voltage source such as a cell battery .

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

Still works.. reading a 3v cell @ 3.12 volts

[petehall347]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

meter is set for dc volts .you said you were measuring ac volts . you really want to be measuring the dc volts at the large capacitor . or dc out on rectifier which is same thing .

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

meter is set for dc volts .you said you were measuring ac volts . you really want to be measuring the dc volts at the large capacitor . or dc out on rectifier which is same thing .

Which large capacitor? Both?

Btw I plug in unit and theres no lights and no button to power on but I imagine its "powered on" in circuit. I'll test it in DC this way.

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

I'm pretty sure I'm not getting a reading at all at the rectifier. Also fuse on the power board is blown after the spark incident.

[petehall347]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

replace fuse and also now check rectifier diodes in case one went shorted after the spark .

[CapLeaker]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

We kinda knew that the rectifier is ok, because as you know the fuse would be blown. Before you put the fuse back in, check the rectifier with the psu unplugged, DMM in diode mode. 0.7 voltage drop is ok, if it is a short, it’s bad.

[Retro-Hipster]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

EDIT: Ah crap... I missed the second page of this and responded to an old message. LOL Well, next time I'll read..
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AH.. Please be safe when doing all of this sir. ^.^; AC likes to kill people because it let's current flow through you in ways that DC doesn't. Also, 120v power will charge up capacitors up to 170v, so you can get a heck of a kick off them even after things are unplugged.

First off sir, could I suggest watching this video for information on all the types of basic discreet components? I think it will help you a lot! You don't have to, but it will help you understand what it is that you are doing when we ask you to check something.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Maq5IyHSuc

As for redwires comment, he is talking about the power transistor there with the heat sink on it. A diode is like a 1 way check valve for electricity. It let's power flow in one direction. He is saying that some Transistors have a diode in them (this is called a body diode). This is to protect the transistor from things like switching of transformers.

On a transistor, you have 3 pins. Collector, Base, and Emitter. He is saying that there might be a one way check valve from the Collector Pin to Emitter. This doesn't normally conduct from Collector to Emitter, but instead conducts from emitter to collector. (Reverse polarity) He mentioned this because testing transistors means checking to see if power flows from one pin to another using your multimeter. You can run into issues if you don't know what to look for/might diagnose the problem wrong.


I think Redwire is pointing to something being wrong with the "Snubber network". When power going to a big inductor like a Transformer is suddenly cut off, the voltage jumps through the roof(as in, hundreds of volts). A snubber network absorbs this spike to protect the Transistor. (The body diode is also useful in this.) If there is something wrong with your snubber network (burnt up looking) then it means that it might not be doing it's job. That could have killed the Transistor.

[ajsterr4]

Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

EDIT: Ah crap... I missed the second page of this and responded to an old message. LOL Well, next time I'll read..
-------

AH.. Please be safe when doing all of this sir. ^.^; AC likes to kill people because it let's current flow through you in ways that DC doesn't. Also, 120v power will charge up capacitors up to 170v, so you can get a heck of a kick off them even after things are unplugged.

First off sir, could I suggest watching this video for information on all the types of basic discreet components? I think it will help you a lot! You don't have to, but it will help you understand what it is that you are doing when we ask you to check something.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Maq5IyHSuc

As for redwires comment, he is talking about the power transistor there with the heat sink on it. A diode is like a 1 way check valve for electricity. It let's power flow in one direction. He is saying that some Transistors have a diode in them (this is called a body diode). This is to protect the transistor from things like switching of transformers.

On a transistor, you have 3 pins. Collector, Base, and Emitter. He is saying that there might be a one way check valve from the Collector Pin to Emitter. This doesn't normally conduct from Collector to Emitter, but instead conducts from emitter to collector. (Reverse polarity) He mentioned this because testing transistors means checking to see if power flows from one pin to another using your multimeter. You can run into issues if you don't know what to look for/might diagnose the problem wrong.


I think Redwire is pointing to something being wrong with the "Snubber network". When power going to a big inductor like a Transformer is suddenly cut off, the voltage jumps through the roof(as in, hundreds of volts). A snubber network absorbs this spike to protect the Transistor. (The body diode is also useful in this.) If there is something wrong with your snubber network (burnt up looking) then it means that it might not be doing it's job. That could have killed the Transistor.

Alright will someone answer me once and for all how can I do this and not get killed? I have to test alot of components and would like to do so with the power unplugged, or rather if it needs to be powered then how can I do it safely?

So far I need to table top the board and check t5,t6,t7 transistors, resistors on the snubber network, (pretty sure rectifier is bad 0 reading) and I guess while I'm at it check the secondary side capacitors.

I'd like to do it on a table, why would labeling wires help me?