Not a single person here takes bios voltages seriously. They are completely unreliable.
Agreed !
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... I've also added a fan to the other end of the PSU. (what I mean is that the first fan is inside the PSU and the second one is screwed outside,next to the Molex wires,btw I'm going to take a pic later so you'll see what I did) ...
What caps did you use on the secondary side?
Or was that the original configuration?
Original caps were almost all Teapo SC, but a lot of the little caps were Teapo SEK and Teapo SS. I used Panasonic FM on the 5VSB output, a mixture of Chemi-Con KY, nichicon PW, Samxon RS, and Panasonic FC for the main rail filtering, and for all the little caps, mixture of nichicon PW and Rubycon YXF
Here's the 400W DeluX I've been using on my Duron system. Maybe it's not that best for you but for me it works like a charm. I've also added a fan to the other end of the PSU. (what I mean is that the first fan is inside the PSU and the second one is screwed outside,next to the Molex wires,btw I'm going to take a pic later so you'll see what I did)
Now,here's pics. Note that all the voltages seem to be in spec,except 3.3V which seems to be a bit low. (at least according to the BIOS)
Primary caps are Seacon as I can see and the secondary caps are Saturn. (YC - Yang Chun iirc)
That's made by Sun Pro. It's good for about 250W, and the fans help a lot. The Saturn (YC) caps are only used by Solytech as far as I know. Those look like CS (12Kuang Jin), Sun Pro is known to use them. They're bad, but they're better than a lot of what Sun Pro normally uses, such as JEE or Ricon
It's actually the same thing you did in the following thread:https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=130 except I secured the fan using screws,since my Delux uses a Codegen case now (before it was the same as yours except I had the same grills on the other side of PSU)
I still have a 350W Codegen around,should I build it back?
4x 2200uF 10V Chemi-Con SXA before +5V output inductor with 2200uF 10V Chemi-Con SXA after it.
220uF 35V Chemi-Con SXA before -12V regulator with 220uF 25V Chemi-Con SXA after it.
220uF 25V Chemi-Con SXA on -12V rail.
470uF 25V Chemi-Con SXA before and after 12V 2A regulator for monitor +12V.
2x 470uF 25V Chemi-Con SXA before +12V inductor with 470uF 25V Chemi-Con SXA after it.
330uF 400V Nichicon primary unit with 1uF 400V Nichicon SE for primary side control; all other electrolytic capacitors are Marcon.
ESAC25-02C rectifiers for each +12V rail with ESAD63-004 rectifier for +5V rail.
2SC2792 switcher for +12V converter and another 2SC2792 switcher for +5V/-12V converter.
S4VB60 input rectifier with AC08FSM inrush limiting resistor bypass TRIAC.
For those who may want to know, Chemi-Con SXA is an early series of low-ESR electrolytic capacitor.
Attached Files
My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.
The SXA series isn't that old. Now RXA or RX (RZA or RZ, for larger can caps) series ...
Shindengen is/was a semiconductor company, so they probably have some of their own power semis in that. I don't see any datecodes in the pic, but I'd guess its vintage as mid 80s.
PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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my power supply starts by it self well and all output voltages are in range, but the problem that it can't make the motherboard load along with hdd too.
Here's the 400W DeluX I've been using on my Duron system. Maybe it's not that best for you but for me it works like a charm.
Doesn't seem too bad.
But you seriously need to add an input choke to it. Even a large iron nut with a few turns of wire wrapped around it would do better than nothing. Those jumpers for the input filter make me cringe. Anytime an inductive load opens in your house (vacuum cleaner, drill, AC relay coil, etc.) those things create a huge electrical noise. Without an input filter, much of that goes through the PSU and tends to put a lot of stress on the PSU's components as well.
Also, if you are trying to kill AM radio around you, lack of input filtering is the way to go. Sure hardly anyone cares about AM radio these days, but that's not the point.
Doesn't seem too bad.
But you seriously need to add an input choke to it. Even a large iron nut with a few turns of wire wrapped around it would do better than nothing. Those jumpers for the input filter make me cringe. Anytime an inductive load opens in your house (vacuum cleaner, drill, AC relay coil, etc.) those things create a huge electrical noise. Without an input filter, much of that goes through the PSU and tends to put a lot of stress on the PSU's components as well.
Also, if you are trying to kill AM radio around you, lack of input filtering is the way to go. Sure hardly anyone cares about AM radio these days, but that's not the point.
I don't think AM radios are used anymore where I live.
Also,I haven't ever heard any noise from it,other than the fans.
funny enough, i know people who use AM radio's to trace RFI that effects people's adsl lines.
rubish for voice/music but great for tracing airborne crap.
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