VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • SkOrPn
    Member
    • Oct 2017
    • 14
    • United States

    #1

    VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

    Hello again,

    I have a question about cheap VRM caps (AMD Ryzen processor power supply VRM). I have a gifted motherboard (AB350M Pro4) that is well known to cut power to the CPU about every 10-15-20 minutes or so depending on how much air flow you force over the VRM. Since this is a Power Supply thread and VRM are Power Supply for a processor, I thought I would ask my question here. Should I move it to another section perhaps?

    Can the below 4 pictured caps be replaced with far higher quality versions? I believe these caps have surpassed their heat rating limit (it started freezing at about the 7 Month mark, which coincides with the 5000 hour 105C rating on these caps?) and thus power is cut from the processor in order to protect it, or something along those lines. I am no real electronics tech but I do posses excellent soldering skills (trained by Intel for a full decade) and have a professional soldering setup. So since it is only 4 caps in total I would like to see if installing very high quality versions would solve the constant freeze/shut down issues that everyone with this board is experiencing. Thanks

    Oh and I measured roughly 6.5mm in width by about 9mm in height. It appears I have space to go bigger too as they are about 1.5 to 2mm away from the chokes. So I could go to up to maybe 8mm in width if needed?

    On the top of the caps it reads:

    2.5 V
    820
    GW

    I see no other marks of any kind on them. I just want to replace them with truly high quality caps, Rubycon or what ever is available. If it does not work I will sell the board on ebay as parts only and recoup my costs for the caps very easily of course.

    Thanks again,
    Rod

    Last edited by SkOrPn; 02-22-2018, 04:31 PM. Reason: added newegg link to see the massive complaints
  • SkOrPn
    Member
    • Oct 2017
    • 14
    • United States

    #2
    Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

    I think I will try replacing these caps with the below Nichicon's and hope I didn't make a selection error. lol

    At least the capacitance, voltage and size are exactly the same. Tried going higher on voltage to 6.3v but other specs seemed to change on me. I guess I will always need active air flow no matter what I do. Asrock sure made these boards as cheap as they could.

    Oh and I think these new ones are Solid Polymer and the old ones are electrolytic. I'm not sure on that though.

    https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSe...49202706353956
    Last edited by SkOrPn; 02-22-2018, 06:25 PM.

    Comment

    • Stefan Payne
      Badcaps Legend
      • Dec 2009
      • 1267
      • Germany

      #3
      Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

      1. Link doesn't link
      2. I don't think the caps are the issues.
      With what you are describing the temperature of the VRM is. Or some other shit.

      3. Your board is brand new, why the hell do you want to fiddle around with it instead of using RMA??
      Originally posted by SkOrPn
      Oh and I think these new ones are Solid Polymer and the old ones are electrolytic. I'm not sure on that though.
      That's just bullshit.

      There are no wet electrolytics on modern Motherboards no more - even where they would make sense (Buffer Caps between Slots for the PCI(e) ones and USB/other connectors)
      Last edited by Stefan Payne; 02-23-2018, 07:31 PM.

      Comment

      • momaka
        master hoarder
        • May 2008
        • 12164
        • Bulgaria

        #4
        Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

        Originally posted by SkOrPn
        I believe these caps have surpassed their heat rating limit (it started freezing at about the 7 Month mark, which coincides with the 5000 hour 105C rating on these caps?) and thus power is cut from the processor in order to protect it, or something along those lines.
        While many polymer (and sometimes electrolytic) caps are usually rated for 2000-10000 hours, that doesn't mean that the caps would magically break / stop working after that period of time passes. Rather, this rating is often called "endurance", and typically it states the *minimum* amount of time that a capacitor will *stay in spec* at 105C temperature (typically) and the full rated voltage of the cap.

        With that being said, you might ask, what happens to the cap if it runs at a slightly lower temperature than the maximum specified and at a lower operating voltage? The answer is, the lifetime increases greatly. For electrolytic caps, for every 10C you go lower in temperature (from the max rated), the lifetime (endurance) doubles. So a 2000 hour cap will survive 4000 hours at 95C. If you lower the temperature another 10C, the cap life increases to 8000h, and so on. I don't remember the figure/multiplier for polymers exactly, but I do remember it's much higher - meaning the life of the cap increases even more.

        So that means it's very unlikely that your caps have gone bad. I personally have not seen a motherboard run its caps that hot to cook its caps in a year. Unfortunately, that means the problem is likely somewhere else. But what? - I have no clue when it comes to these newer motherboads. Frankly, I think they are all built like shit (even the "high-end" ones). I've tried troubleshooting several newer boards and never got anywhere. Unless you have a BGA problem with the CPU socket (which is one possible cause of your problem), there's not much else you can do really. The only other thing I can think of is a faulty chipset, especially if the motherboard has an AMD chipset (which I think it is, as I don't recall VIA, nVidia, or any other manufacturer making chipsets for AMD boards in the last 8 years or so now).

        In any case, feel free to recap the board if you like. Maybe even go with 1000 or 1200 uF polymer caps with better ESR and ripple current, so you know all is good in terms of the filtering. But I am pretty sure that none of that will solve your issue. If for some odd reason it does (or seems like it), make sure to thoroughly test everything. Intermittent issues can sometimes make you believe that you've fixed a problem when you haven't.
        Last edited by momaka; 02-24-2018, 01:02 AM.

        Comment

        • Stefan Payne
          Badcaps Legend
          • Dec 2009
          • 1267
          • Germany

          #5
          Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

          Originally posted by momaka
          The only other thing I can think of is a faulty chipset, especially if the motherboard has an AMD chipset (which I think it is, as I don't recall VIA, nVidia, or any other manufacturer making chipsets for AMD boards in the last 8 years or so now).
          Well, not really...
          Technically the Promontory is an ASMedia Chipset. And not really that just an I/O Bridge with many things inside...

          Comment

          • SkOrPn
            Member
            • Oct 2017
            • 14
            • United States

            #6
            Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

            OK thanks for the replies gents.

            And yeah it does clearly sound like a heat issue, which is why so many people can go from 10 minutes to 60 minutes if they only put a active fan blowing down onto the VRM's, but 60 minutes is not enough lol.

            Comment

            • Stefan Payne
              Badcaps Legend
              • Dec 2009
              • 1267
              • Germany

              #7
              Re: VRM Caps? That is a Power Supply right?

              Put a fan on the back, around the CPU Socket

              Comment

              Related Topics

              Collapse

              • Tynan Dill
                Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?
                by Tynan Dill
                I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.

                Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.

                I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.

                The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.

                With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.

                Assuming...
                11-22-2024, 01:46 PM
              • sam_sam_sam
                Desoldering gun station modified to use a 18 volt @ 20 amp switching power supply
                by sam_sam_sam
                I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump

                One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy...
                03-31-2024, 02:12 PM
              • eryjus
                Heathkit IO-4205 Power Supply Caps
                by eryjus
                Hello,

                First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.

                I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.

                I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
                ...
                05-10-2023, 11:21 AM
              • sam_sam_sam
                Modification to a ZD-987 desoldering/soldering station using a external switching power supply
                by sam_sam_sam
                I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails

                I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time...
                07-01-2024, 06:34 AM
              • Gust zhang
                Mid 2014 A1398 MacBookPro,Is it feasible to remove the battery from the MBP and connect it to an external power supply?
                by Gust zhang
                ​I have a 15 - inch Retina MacBook Pro from the mid - 2014 model. Here is the link: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...light=820-3662 . The battery broke some time ago. After I removed the battery and plugged in the original power adapter, the MBP could boot up normally. However, when I checked with IntelPowerGadget, I found that the CPU speed was limited to 0.8 GHz, and it ran very slowly. Later, I found a solution on GitHub. There is an open - source project called cputune that can set the CPU running speed. So I can now run the MBP at full speed. But another problem...
                02-16-2025, 08:39 AM
              • Loading...
              • No more items.
              Working...