I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Thanks, now i will have a poweradaper that is not a pos
now before i buy the parts i need a few other caps, and maybe a regulator (i do not want to pat shipping twice)
*to be discussed in another tread/topic

[kaboom]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Can i use the empty hole labeled - at the lower right of the transformer, that point is connected to Vo-

You can use that.

L1's a small choke, from the + terminal of C5 to + terminal of C6. You have a C-L-C output filter.

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Sorry it is a little blurry, my camera's autofocus is as crappy as those junk 470uf caps

i flipped to keep the parts in the same relative location on the image and added a few labels to it for reference

thew middle pin of U3 is connected to ground next to the empty - pin hole
there is also a resistor there that connects the middle pin to another pin on U3, from there there is one more resistor that connects it to Vo+, i believe this is how the 6206 (U1) monitors the output voltage via the optic isolator or is that vise versa?

What is the part between the 470uf caps labled L1, by the Vo+ hole called?

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

From quickly looking at the data sheet this might not be a bad power supply after all
But I would recap it for sure and not over load it

Here is the data sheet for the IC chip RM6203

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...02a50b81a2.pdf

Here is the data sheet for that IC chip RM6206

You have scroll all the way to bottom of the page to find the PDF file to open it



Can you please take a photo of the back side of board like you did the front side thanks

“Can i use the empty hole labeled - at the lower right of the transformer, that point is connected to Vo- on the bottom of the board “

That depends on what is all going to that pad if just a capacitor or capacitors then I would say maybe because I have seen this done in other power supply before but I would want anyone with more experience than me have the final word on this (if someone comments on this I will start a new post with a photo of some


One note on switching power supply is that some real cheap one or real low amp power supply
They do not seem to have a switching power supply IC chip or least I can not find one one the board WHAT is up with that

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Well that makes it much simpler, just connect earth ground to dc ground
Can i use the empty hole labeled - at the lower right of the transformer, that point is connected to Vo- on the bottom of the board and is amount 1cm of track from the transfomer's pin and i could solder jump and be right on it, or does it need to be closer to the caps

At the bottom there are are two 5% 210 Ohm resistors, it is labeled C8 and C7
i think C mean cap, so what is going on there?

both of the tan disk caps are labeled 104
the green one is labeled 3A222
i can not read the blue one right now, but line one says JNC and line 2 reads JNT02N (need a magnifying glass to read the diagram/symbols on it)

[kaboom]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Here ya go.



The EGC and "Vo-" go to the same point on the PCB.

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

i took a better picture of the 5v adapter (C1, C5, and C6 have been removed)

so how do i wire up that EGC?

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Looks like the actual load on the 12v power supply is .7A max
and the garbage 470uf caps are running at 29 C (norm 0.5A (25%) load)
load based on my multimeter's readings (southwire 21050t)
going back to plan A replace junk caps with real caps

Hopefully kaboom can explain that safety in a way a novice can understand

BTW there is a issue i have been having, it may be a software issue, but it could be a noise issue in my power, on occasion i get a odd noise in my audio over-wise it is seems spotless, so if there is something i can do to make the output cleaner i would like to know; i have already tried using aluminum foil to shield stuff from power lines, i did manage to get a voltage measurement during this event and only saw a variation of 0.01v; so far nothing i have done has had any effect, i also tried a ferret core on my audio cable

After over a year i managed to find the issue, corrupt audio file

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Ok i like that more, that has everything i could possibly need and more, i would trade from 3.3 amps for 12v amps, wait maybe i could... nah i think that fan needs at least 4v; but hey i can run anything i want on 3.3v with that, not that i have a need to
meh, who needs plugs when you have a soldering iron we could remove the plug OR we can solder to the pin and heat shrink it

Ok i like that one more and after going over a spec sheet i found i like it even more:
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...c967142f61.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...c9c4333d55.pdf
I managed to find it on ebay for about $20

i just ordered it and 5min later i looked at the size that is 1/2 my dam case; there is no way in hell i can fit that in there

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

are these board worth a crap?
http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...tinfo/18438+PS
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Su...tinfo/18443+PS

I almost forgot about this power supply this looks be made pretty well
It has 12 & 5 & 3 volt output

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G20367


If you can wait for it to go on sale if i remember right they go on sale for $20.00 but most of time it is one or two that you can buy at price if try buy more than that the price is then $500.00 each I am not kidding but they are funny with that

I have not used this power supply yet but I have about 4 or 5 of them maybe in the next few weeks I am think about a project that I want build and I am going to use this power supply in it most
of time I take the power concentor off the boards because I do not have those plugs

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

I should have said before you turn it OFF have a load on it and check the main cap before you do that

[Per Hansson]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Another test you can do after the heat sinks have come to room temperature is run the power supply at load you are going to use most of time and see how hot the heat sinks become

My rule is if you can hold your hand or figure on there for at least a minute with having to take them off you will be ok

Keep in mind that it's common for heatsinks to be LIVE with DC bus voltage on them!!!

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

They might be alright for the fact that are on sale right now

Here is what do when I get a brand for first time

One

I look at the brand of caps they on the board
If do not know the brand I recap it

Two

I run the power supply on a MR16 / 20 or 50 watt light bulb (at 12 volts = about 1.6 to 3.8 amps load )
With the load hook up with out power ON at first and see if it will start with a load the better power supply might start with a load up like that

If will not start that way then turn ON the power supply first then put load on it and read the voltage with load then out the load this will tell you how well this power supply regulator system functions

I seen some power supply that there voltage regulator is sorry at best or does not have any to speak of

Three

After 15 minuets I turn OFF the power supply and check the temperature of the heat sinks to see how hot they have become

Another test you can do after the heat sinks have come to room temperature is run the power supply at load you are going to use most of time and see how hot the heat sinks become


Before you turn it OFF have a load on the output and check the main cap before you do this

My rule is if you can hold your hand or figure on the heat sink for at least a minute with having to take them off you will be ok

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

are these board worth a crap?
http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...tinfo/18438+PS
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Su...tinfo/18443+PS

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

You can find very good power supply you just have to look
With me I do not like compact boards where all the components are real close together and caps are real close to heat sinks or do not have switching power regulator in them

This is a big one if I find one like that most of time I will not use it but that just me

Or if the switching transformer does not look like it can handle the load that they say it will

Most of the time I do not use them either

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Both those are alot of overkill
for the +5v i am only using probably about 800ma, clamp on meter shows i use 0.5A when not charging my old ipod shuffle
as for the +12v i am using a GX-D1081 network switch and running 45cm(3leds per 5cm) of cool white SMD 3528 led tape

I figure if both can do 2A that would good

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Here is one power supply

I do not have one of these power supply but looking at the specks I might buy one soon and try it out

12 volt @ 8 amp

http://www.mpja.com/12VDC-84A-Power-...info/33176+PS/

Here is another one at same web site
I have not tried this brand of power supply before so I can not tell anything about it

5 volt @ 3 amp

http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...info/18438+PS/

I have some of these power supply they are very good they are made by MeanWell
The only problem with power supply it if you want a voltage lower than 4.75 volts

( the trip pot gose lower than it should)

it is not going to happen without being mod it in some way it's high voltage is 5.8 with different trim pot then you get to 6.25 volts the review that has that as a note I was the one who wrote it that the range of adjustablty is not correct in the description that they have for it

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...-supply/1.html

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Do not get mad at me for saying this but you need to get a better power supply's to cover the power that you want to push out of them

I very rarely push a power supply be on 50% maybe to 75% but if I do it to 75% or higher I keep a very close eye on it to make sure it not overheating the case of the power supply

If you need better power supply's I can point you in the right direction just let me know and I will be glad help you with it

They will not cost you an arm and leg

Please be safe

If you can find one that will fit in the allotted space that is not a POS that would be great, i would like to keep it inside the PSU case, the only way i know to find a good brick is to get a used one from networking hardware, unless you count going extreme overkill and getting picking up 300w seasonic PSU

when i say the 12v one gets pushed hard, i figured out my leds should pull 300ma at 12v without the vdrop from Darlington transistor and the spec page on the network switch states it uses 700ma, i should probably measure it

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

I used the plastic boxes to hold the adapter board cause they have no mounting holes
Sorry i do not quite understand all that i really could use a wiring diagram
Here is the color coding i am using

AC Wires (US standard AC color coding):
 Green - Earth ground
 Black - 120v AC
 White - neutral AC (connected to earth ground in mains panel box)
DC Wires (standard Computer PSU color coding):
 Black - 0v DC
 Red - +5v DC
 Yellow - +12v DC

At one point i had a brick for all this, but i replaced it cause it belongs in the power supply hall of shame thread
I believe this is the one:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16812123309
The 1st issue is came with an adapter that was not pinned properly for the brick
I do not recall which pin was ground on which but this was the issue

Brick pin set:
 5v
 0
 NULL
 12v
Adapter pin set:
 5v
 NULL
 0
 12v

This POS was barley able to handle a 25% load with +5v falling a measly 4.8v
and it claims to do 2A on +12 and +5
*wonders hat i did with this piece of junk*

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

The 12v adapter is from networking hardware that my ISP uses, so it should be a decent unit, based on the math i did, but i do stress it at times, probably about a 95% load; that is a 1A supply; it will put out some heat under that load
that unit is running my network switch and powers my keyboard light (SMD 3528 led strip), i think i used a TIP120 transistor to turn it on/off
but yes i can take a pic for you, easier now then back when i took that last photo, i have space connectors on the mains power lines now and there is a molex plug on the DC side, i can do so this afternoon

Do not get mad at me for saying this but you need to get a better power supply’s to cover the power that you want to push out of them

I very rarely push a power supply be on 50% maybe to 75% but if I do it to 75% or higher I keep a very close eye on it to make sure it not overheating the case of the power supply

If you need better power supply’s I can point you in the right direction just let me know and I will be glad help you with it

They will not cost you an arm and leg

I do tend to over size the power supply for what I am powering and more so with switching power supply

Now if I am using a transformer type power supply I might cut it close to it maximum output but then will put a fuse in it that is what the transformer is rated for

But I have seen some transformer and I laugh at what they say they can put out

Please be safe