No it didn't, kept blowing. Although my knowledge was a lot less then, just gave up on it.
Yes, suspecting a short somewhere after reading the review on HardOCP with the secondary PCBs; the fuse is gone & the fan tested good, there is, however, a sign of burning on the neutral pin on the kettle lead socket; looks like quite a surge
It's OK Mikay; was keen to try a 12a fuse, but hey-ho
So got the fuse holder on, got the fuse in - still nothing
Discovered that the rocker switch is flaky - another common fault with this model
It is effectively constantly on; there is continuity whatever state it's in & it doesn't switch completely to the off position like it should
Going to try a switch from an older PSU; will post back the outcome
Tested this one for continuity & it isolates / conducts as it should
Don't know if the PSU is refusing to start because of this, don't see why it should
What is the brand of rocker switch which was defective and what was its ratings?
Today, I've had a master switch fail on a home theatre power strip (Spikefree) after being in service for over 4 years with operation of this switch when our home theatre system was not in use - replacing it fixed the problem.
I also recommended only operating this switch under zero to light load.
My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.
What is the brand of rocker switch which was defective and what was its ratings?
Today, I've had a master switch fail on a home theatre power strip (Spikefree) after being in service for over 4 years with operation of this switch when our home theatre system was not in use - replacing it fixed the problem.
I also recommended only operating this switch under zero to light load.
Haven't removed it yet; the lives are poked through it & heavily soldered (4 terminals) whereas the replacement just has 2
OK; took the switch off & during this act the flexed copper / brass inside it clicked back into place; will still need replaced though but now tests good
Notice a couple of small caps after the pwm controller are not letting current through as well as a couple of resistors; will post pics later
Got a TX850V2 for £36 so this will probably be a nothing more than a low priority project now; will probably just sell it for a few quid for spares, or a bit more if it gets working
Yes it was wired in series, just not with the rest of the unit attached; will put it all back together when the y caps are replaced & test it then, but still sure those small components are bad
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