Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Any update? I have same issue with my HP.
Did I do anything wrong?
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
When it cuts off, do any of the voltages from the PSU turn off?UPDATE:
Replaced ALL electrolytic caps on the power supply with Nichicon PS and PW caps; still has the random shutdown. Fires right up, boots all the way to Windows...and suddenly cuts off. Oddly enough, the WLAN module still keeps on blinking.
Odd, very odd.
Can someone give their insights?
How about the voltage on the CPU?Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
UPDATE:
Replaced ALL electrolytic caps on the power supply with Nichicon PS and PW caps; still has the random shutdown. Fires right up, boots all the way to Windows...and suddenly cuts off. Oddly enough, the WLAN module still keeps on blinking.
Odd, very odd.
Can someone give their insights?Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
I'm busy with other things right now, and short of moneyOriginally posted by Khron666What series are the Chemicon caps on the motherboard?
I've read around here that KZG/KZJ don't really like heat, and are prone to failure without bulging / venting / leaking.
The mainboard has two large radial KZG caps and some smaller Lelons (the small 5x8mm ones, I think). Once I have an ESR meter, I'll try to take a look on them.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
What series are the Chemicon caps on the motherboard?
I've read around here that KZG/KZJ don't really like heat, and are prone to failure without bulging / venting / leaking.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Originally posted by ben7Hint Hint... I've had success with adding extra flux, that tends to help those stupid lead-free joints melt.
Do you know exactly what happens when it shuts off? Like, do the main rails go down, or does the standby go down too?
I'm thinking it is probably a bad solder joint. Or something could be wrong with the motherboard.
It goes into an unrecoverable 'standby' mode where the power button LED is still lit, but everything else is powered down. So it means the mainboard is still powered, but it has entered a powered-down state that it couldn't get out. Holding the power button long enough won't turn the unit off, I have to physically unplug it. I've seen it happen in the Dell monitor I recapped several months ago -- semi-bulged CapXon caps.
I've checked the HP motherboard and everything looks like fine (physically) for now, as I do not have access to an ESR meter. The HP motherboard has brown United Chemicon caps on it, I think. The rest are surface mount radial caps.
Now here's the weirder twist of things: I've consistently powered up and down the unit, and every time it would go off, the amount of time it would stay 'turned on' when I re-powered it, would be decreased.
Other than that, I catched an Ltec(!) cap covered in heat-shrink tubing while I was desoldering the SMPS daughterboard off - the one that has the Fairchild KA7500c chip on it.
More later. Insights welcomed.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Hint Hint... I've had success with adding extra flux, that tends to help those stupid lead-free joints melt.Done that, including tinning the desoldering tip with 60/40 solder. It sort of worked, but not as fast as running my Hakko 936 at 405*C and a Soldapullt on the hole. Hmm, weird
The replacement caps are all Nichicon PW series as well as one PS cap (UPS1H470MED). I wonder if my selection of replacement caps has something to do with it.
Do you know exactly what happens when it shuts off? Like, do the main rails go down, or does the standby go down too?
I'm thinking it is probably a bad solder joint. Or something could be wrong with the motherboard.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
I would add this as well any joint look like it has a lot of flux I would redo those joint as wellLeave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Tried reflowing those diodes on the secondary side. Some look like they are suspect, which would cause a dropped supply rail. Also on the control board some of the through hole parts at the bottom by the connector look dry jointed.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Done that, including tinning the desoldering tip with 60/40 solder. It sort of worked, but not as fast as running my Hakko 936 at 405*C and a Soldapullt on the hole. Hmm, weirdFrist thank you for the photos
Here is a trick you can try put lead based soldier on the joint then suck all of away then reapply the soldier this works for me about 99%of the time
from the photo the big main board there look to be some ? able joints
What are the brand names on these caps that are on this board
The replacement caps are all Nichicon PW series as well as one PS cap (UPS1H470MED). I wonder if my selection of replacement caps has something to do with it.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Frist thank you for the photos
Here is a trick you can try put lead based soldier on the joint then suck all of away then reapply the soldier this works for me about 99%of the time
from the photo the big main board there look to be some ? able joints
What are the brand names on these caps that are on this boardLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 01-11-2014, 05:51 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
RoHS lead-free solder.Originally posted by selldoorCheck all your joints with a magnifying glass also as the original problem could have been due to a bad joint check the whole boards. Pic...6007
a few of the joints dont look great but that may just be the picture.?
My Pace MBT-200 has had a hard time melting the through-hole joints. I've got it set in the max setting but it wouldn't budge. I've checked the board for any cracks, but I can't really see anything that would indicate otherwise.
Leave a comment:
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Re: Did I do anything wrong?
Check all your joints with a magnifying glass also as the original problem could have been due to a bad joint check the whole boards. Pic...6007
a few of the joints dont look great but that may just be the picture.?Leave a comment:
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