Re: what fuckery is this!?
Fortunatelly, nothing can go wrong here.
But did you know you could plug the PCIe into ATX 12 V and even EPS? And it just has the polarity reversed?
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
This is equally stupid:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812123300
Look carefully at the wire color!Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Oh this particular AT power supply I was using was the original in the IBM AT. I didn't have the original full sized motherboard with all its TTL chips and a 5.25" hard drive hooked up to it, so the only load was a miniscule 3.5" hard drive which it promptly fried. Honestly I was kind of surprised (thought the HDD is good enough as a minimum load) but the HDD definitely released its magic smoke and there was a burnt chip on the board.
I'm still furious at it, it was a 6.4GB HDD if I remember correctly... and the drive was kind of flaky to begin with anyway. No big loss, but was 100% unexpected... May have been a smooth anyway.
And yes... whenever I deal with power I usually double, triple check connections. The +5/+12 is soooo easy to mix up. Kind of funny, I had a DEC Rainbow or something at one point that used purple for +5 and red for +12, which made it very confusing. That's when I had to start doublechecking and never trust the red...Last edited by eccerr0r; 09-11-2013, 12:27 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Well, for me, I wouldn't immediatelly connect on two devices for a test run, still better to burn one than two…it was more like *check multiple times if everything is OK even BEFORE you plug that to something*.Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
I was servicing something a few months ago where I needed to isolate the external SMPS wall wart (bad caps) from the device. As well as test the device.
I made up a 10v supply with a 7809 and two 4004 diodes in the common. Two 1000u electrolytics, too.
Except I happened to use a 6.3v one on the input side. Input was 14V- in less than three minutes, the cap blew (Nichicon HM) and I got a slight whiff of ammonia.
"Kaboom pulls a kaboom."
Accidents happen.
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Not surprising at all.
OTOH, I once tried operating the PS out of a Compaq Deskpro 386s outside the system, no load.
That thing sounded like squeaking crickets or grasshoppers! Evidently, no damage was done, since it still worked when put back in the system. I wonder what those voltages were like...
Gimme a break- I think I was 12 or something...
Last edited by kaboom; 09-10-2013, 08:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Those could "spike" connected loads as the PWM "skips" after it overshoots. Without enough load, "continuous current operation" never happens, in addition to said overshoot.
Those old AT supplies were rather tough, but seemed to be more sensitive to loading than newer supplies.
I think that some only used one output for PWM feedback, counting on proportioning of load current to even out the voltages.
With newer (1998+) supplies, not only does the coupled output inductor help, but the +5 and +12 are summed, proportionally with resistors, for feedback. This is why they can be worse with +5/+12 "crossloading," but better (safer) in a case of no load.
Better yet, some supplies simply shut down during such "unregulation" under light load, as +5, for example, heads toward 5.4v with only +12 loaded. Hence the "5v minimum load" resistor, when using such supplies for 12v-only.
The old-fashioned alternative would be for +5 to become 6v or more...Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Must have been some crap, I have pretty old Enlight Corporation PSU, I say pretty good for an AT, I've run so much stuff on that without any extra load…just turn it on, tha's all I need to do…Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
This reminds me of something.
A long time ago I tried using an IBM AT PSU (yes the real one) in this manner to power hard drives. It's even easier for these AT PSUs because you don't need to ground the green pin to turn it on.
First thing that happened when I tried the HDD?
Fried the HDD. Magic smoke leaked out.
Then I noticed the minimum load needed and it was fairly hefty.
*sigh*Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
Stick it wherever you want That's just signal for MoBo that everything is OK and it is safe for it to turn on.
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
here is the second adapter http://www.microcenter.com/product/3...E-SATA_Adapter
and here is the pics of the adaption. you might notice that i kept the power-good wire, im not sure what to do with that
Attached FilesLast edited by goontron; 09-10-2013, 02:20 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: what fuckery is this!?
it will run laptop drives (blue-ray and HDD) and desktop drives (iomega ZIP, dvd, and HDD). i have noticed that my quantum BIGFOOT HDD didn't like those bricks
here is one of the adapters (the adapters are good not the bricks)
http://www.microcenter.com/product/2...to_USB_Adapter
yay 701 postsLast edited by goontron; 09-09-2013, 12:32 PM.Leave a comment:
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Hi all,
I am working on a sound processor, it tends to overheat so I fitted a fan inside. The fan is connected to the +15V of the PSU via a DC-DC converter based on the LM2596 to reduce the voltage to around 10.5V.
Unfortunately the analogue circuitry is picking up the noise from the fan in two ways:
1. The fan is close to the analogue section, the motor itself gets into the outputs so I'll have to move it somewhere else
2. Even with the fan running outside of the case, there is still some noise which is clearly going back to the processor via power line.... -
Surprisingly enough, this receiver doesn't have the DSP chip issue. The HDMI board does not get hot, and sound over HDMI works fine.
Regardless of the input, the right channel has noise that is clearly noticeable even on average volume level. The only cases when there's no noise is when VCR input is selected (some tracks on the board are damaged, maybe that's why), or if HDMI input is selected but nothing plugged into it. In all other cases, even when no input is connected I still have the noise.
There's some logic behind it. As soon as I select an input I get only left...04-23-2025, 10:09 PM -
Hello
I have since a long time a Philips HTS8010S/01 which has been old but was doing the job.
Since a few days, it starts by making a weird "static" nois when switches on for a few seconds to a minute and then works like a charm.
Noise loudly outputs from the 3 channels, even if no signal is sent by the controler.DVD to the subwoofer/amp unit.
I was thinking of a soldering that was starting to be damaged and that was only doing the job after a few seconds of heating, most probbaly on the power board
Removed each of tyhe boards
...02-08-2025, 08:22 AM -
Hello,
I know some might say... just buy another one. Sell it as parts..!
So had this AMP for quite some time. Recently I saw light smoke coming out of the AMP. Had my fire extinguisher close by. Just kidding. Turned immediately all devices off from mains.
Let things cool a bit, and opened up the amp device. I clearly saw on the main board which hosts the 5X amp (5.1), 3 10 ohms 1W resistors had their leads looking black, while the rest of the remaining 2 x 10 ohms were brownish as being installed from factory.
Spent some time downloading the Service...06-11-2024, 08:38 AM -
I bought this TV with really bad oxidation on the power supply and bottom X boards, it was working but during pickup there was a lot of background noise so I don't know if it had this problem before.
As soon as I could I opened the tv and started working on it, did not test it before since it had back bars on the screen and obvious signs of humidity. The X boards were replaced and the screen now works 100%, but the power supply...
I washed the board and resoldered almost everything on the primary, the oxidation happened because of constant mains AC current flowing,...
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