tony359
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 03-23-2025, 03:48 PM
Joined: 10-28-2018
Location: Swindon
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the store where I bought it is not available anymore - the 3343 is available from reputable sellers, I went to Ali because I wasn't sure I was going to fix it and didn't want to spend too much money on it. But the IC is still available online.... -
The Mac is back to life!!
The 10Ohm resistor I damaged was rusted underneath so maybe it was a good thing I broke it
Once replaced, the macbook came back to life!
Thanks for your help!...Leave a comment:
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hi - thanks for your help.
I found R712 broken - it was me when I scraped the corrosion it has on top. I thought it was ok but I read kiloohm and it should be 10 ohm. That is the Vin for the controller IC which is driving VCore.
I've got some new on order, fingers crossed.
Thanks so much for the turning on tip. I found the SMC_ONOFF_L online but I wasn't sure I could just short them to ground. ahaha amazing, I've just noticed those pads, they have the "on/off" symbol on it. Fantastic thanks so much.
I'm not sure about turning on without...Leave a comment:
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Schematics attached...
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2007 Macbook logic board fault
Good day all,
I got a 2007 MacBook from a friend. The fan was not working so it was overheating.
Once the fan was swapped, I installed an OS and it worked fine.
The board had quite a few corroded spots so I removed it, touched those spots with a soldering iron, washed the board in PCB cleaning fluid (I've done that many times), rinsed it with distilled water, dried it etc.
Unfortunately it doesn't work anymore. It does turn on, fan spins, power LED turns on. But no picture.
If I see that right, I have missed VCORE on L7100 (page 59).... -
Just to complete this thread, it was just a faulty fan. A working fan works when supplied with 5V. And it works in the MacBook!Leave a comment:
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Macbook 820-2279-A fan not spinning
Hi all,
I have this old macbook which I am trying to repair for nostalgic reasons
The fan does not spin until the MB overheats and shuts down.
The fan gets 5V but there is no PWM on pin 3. The same with the fan unplugged, no PWM on pin 3. The fan shows some glimpse of activity every 5 seconds. Sometimes it spins for half a revolution and that's it.
From the schematics (obtained from this forum, THANKS!) I see there is a mosfet getting signal from the SMC. The mosfet gets 3.3V but there is no input - well, there is 3.3V. I removed the mosfet to see... -
I was forwarded the Texas Instruments bulletin which confirms that only B and C DSP ICs were deemed as faulty - the "A" you see in the 3007 video above is likely to have a long life after the reball! Fingers crossed!
I cannot find this bulletin online anymore so I thought I'd share it here....Leave a comment:
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I forgot I discussed my issue with the Onkyo 3007 on this forum.
I made a video "repair" of this unit where I try to explain what happens from all the info I got from various sources - which are all mentioned of course
I post it here for future reference - it's so sad that those beasts cannot be recovered because of one tiny IC...
...Leave a comment:
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I've used the Kingbo 218 for a while. At some point the product changed and became much worse with a horrible "chemical" smell.
I did some research and.. well, I cannot find a "Kingbo" manufacturer. So it looks like it's a random name and every seller is sticking whatever they want in those tubes! So "Kingbo-218" is like Aliexpress "Amtech 559" - it might be good but it depends on the seller and not the product.
About the Stirri, I cannot find that info on the datasheet - but [USER="286001"]Aliencomputres[/USER] recommends...Last edited by tony359; 08-27-2024, 02:58 AM.Leave a comment:
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Thanks - I have checked them all and none is bad, at least for my cheap MTester. The 100uF ones are the "worst" ones but still within specs.
Thanks for the hint!Leave a comment:
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Thanks R_J
I see the massive current ripple for those indeed.
[USER="414449"]harp[/USER] thanks - if the film cap is a suitable option, I'm happy to go with that!
But I will have to check the BP I installed in my //e monitor ages ago. I suspect it gets VERY hot and the only reason why it didn't blow up is because it's a 105C cap, so probably more resilient.harpLeave a comment:
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That is always an option of course - and don't worry, I am not a "let's recap for the sake of recapping" person
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Thank you! I suspect the BP I installed in my monitor is getting hot them. It's rated 105C instead of 85C so that might be why it hasn't exploded yet. I'll check with a thermal camera and then replace it. Thank you again!Leave a comment:
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thanks, appreciated! I'm surprised my own Apple //e has survived all these years with a regular BP cap then. Yes, I am aware the film cap will need to be adapted a bit, no problem.
How would current affect a capacitor? I am honestly asking, I do not know. I know that temp and voltage would affect a cap but what happens when current is involved? Where do I find that value in the datasheet? [url]https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/293/e_uvp-3082211.pdf[/url]https://thanks, appreciated! I'm sur...es, I am awareLeave a comment:
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Bipolar capacitor for vintage Apple CRT monitor
Good day all,
I have a question about some old monochrome Apple monitors.
Inside those monitors there is one bipolar capacitor. From the schematics I have it's part of the horizontal linearity circuit.
A friend replaced a bipolar 4.7uF 25V capacitor with a Nichicon bipolar 4.7uF 25V. The cap popped after about one hour. The new capacitor was much smaller than the original one but that's not a surprise as the original one was from 1980. (I am not sure whether the original was was actually 4uF and was replaced with a 4.7uF?)
The new capacitor:... -
I've noticed that Tony is mentioning the Stirri flux - I could try and give it a go but I also have the Amtech (original, not the chinese copycat) and that doesn't really work, at least as I'd expect.
I'm checking the Stirri LT-HF-TF product page and it says
[URL="https://stirri.co.uk/products/stirri-lt-hf-tf?variant=47807938101565"]LT-HF-TF specialty no-clean halogen-free low-temp soldering tacky past – STIRRI® Aerospace & Defense Grade OEM[/URL]
I admire Tony's work, he's just a wizard. I value his opinion but this feels...Last edited by tony359; 08-02-2024, 02:32 AM.Leave a comment:
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I had forgotten I had a thread here on BadCaps about the Infamous V58!
I've managed to fix this board - well fix... It's not really a fix!
Made my usual videos 😊
Part 1:
Part 2:
I had forgotten I had a thread here on BadCaps about the Infamous V58!
I've managed to fix this board - well fix... It's not really a fix!
Made my usual videos 😊
Part 1:
Part 2:
...Leave a comment:
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Hi there,
My dell 2709 died some weeks ago and this is one of the most informative threads I found online on the subject. I managed to fix it and made a video repair, I mentioned this forum and linked this thread in the description.
I've had three DELL's monitor of that era which ALL failed for the same reason. I wonder whether whoever re-flowed the main processor actually unintentionally "fixed" the same issues all my monitors had!
Feedback always very welcome
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Yes that's the board and those are my pictures
Nothing is getting hot. I'll check regulators again but there is not much on the board. The only regulators are for RAM, VCORE and IO. IO and VCore are ok. I can check the Ram one but I'm not testing with RAM for now (yes, I also have tested with it).
Where do you see the RAM size thing? I don't see it on the jumper sheet/manual.
Yes, I appreciate Socket 7 is a bit more complex, but that's why I've posted here I think I've depleted the "basic" options (reset line, voltages, clock) and I'd like...
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