Hi all!
The laptop has no signs of life at all. The only thing showing any voltage is the BIOS battery. Nothing is heating, nothing takes any charges, no LEDs blink, no reaction on power button. My USB-C meter shows nothing taken, however it starts detecting voltage only above 3.7V.
These boards have notorious USB-PD chips. I can't even measure what's on their pins because they are just a fraction of mm in size. What I suspect are these chips:
1) 5457V K8K33H2 GK34CC
2) RT3663BM GOW 7K834
3) Lenovo IT8227E-256 2106-CXA Z0043B
Please, recommend...
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Thinkpad E15 G2 (AMD) GE420/GE520 NM-C771 REV 1.0
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Youtube made a miracle and suggested a video where my question was well-explained [URL]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxNY-iYaok0[/URL]
I need a 20kohm resistor. Unfortunately, in the video the psu was unable to output more than 1A after been modified to 24V. Any ideas?https://Youtube made a miracle and s...4V. Any ideas?Youtube made a miracle and suggested
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Increase voltage on Toshiba PSU pa3717e-1ac3
There is an old, but working laptop PSU Toshiba pa3717e-1ac3. It outputs almost 20V with 6.32A. The task is to make giving out 24-26V with not less than 3.5A.
It is built on the attached [URL=filedata/fetch?id=3251557&d=1712916430][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tToshiba.jpg Views:\t5 Size:\t140.3 KB ID:\t3251557","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3251557","data-size":"thumb"}[/ATTACH][/URL] PWM
To me it looks like DAP019D, but I only was...
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A few questions (please, don't forward me to the particular model topic, nobody answers there)
I have a dump of a working password-protected BIOS. I see that the tool has cleared PowerOnPW and AdminPW, also many symbols spread out in this and one other place. Is there any way to read the password without cleaning? Just to keep the original bios. Because after cleaning it doesn't POST anymore. Or what may help to open it?...
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Sorry, I thought my case is a bit different from standard BIOS issues. I suspect something more HW-related because I don't get fan or screen starting at all.
SN: 5CD93063TY
Board: HP Probook 440 G6 DA0X8JMB8E0 X8J-8l
When I was unlocking the BIOS it shown:
MAC with all FF
SKU: 4RZ57AV
Board CT: PHVRE078JCK144...
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BIOS had both Admin and boot passwords, also motherboard has certain liquid damage. I desoldered the bios chip Gigadevice GD25B127D, downloaded the bin, applied the RCUnlocker, checked in the NeoProgrammer that it is there, and soldered the BIOS chip back. Now, as soon as the laptop gets any power it shows yellow LED around power connector, it starts blinking, and nothing else happens. This LED blinks even with/without RAM, CMOS battery, main battery, and main power. There is a little chance that the chip is burned or poorly soldered, or just the firmware had some other securuty feature like related...
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I have similar Dell laptop supplies that have some sort of power saving standby, wo when you just turn it on it gives 19.5V, but a few second later without load it drops voltage to just above 0. But as soon as you connect anything taking load it will instantly give you 19V again. And certanly there is a low voltage protection too. The datasheet that you refered to tried exactly 15v in testing: Short-circuit to GND VCC+ = 15V.
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I'm thinking about replacement of TNY280 with the next version. It looks noticeably upgraded, while there is just one part on the schema has changed. Considering this change, would it fit instead of the 280?
And instead of the original 20A60CT I will use MBR3045...
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Great, thank you. Also, check if you have a dead SMD as said here [URL]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxeL7if_IDQ[/URL]
I'm thinking, if tny280 are bad, should I order tny290pg or something else?https://Great, thank you. Also, chec...omething else?Great, thank you. Also, check if you have a dead SMD as said here [URL]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxeL7if_IDQ[/URL]
I'm thinking, if tny280 are bad, should I order tny290pg or something
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Good job!
Can you take a look what components you have in HS7 (MOSFET) and L11 (coil)?
Sorry, HS7 is the D10 that you mentioned, this question is answered. May you please post the name or photo of L11 (coil)?
Also, check if you have a dead SMD as said here [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxeL7if_IDQ[/url]https://Good job!<br /> <br /> Can y..., check if you...
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I would check nearby diods and trans, just in case capacitors too.
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Bridge rectifier shows 0.531v if left pin - to the right pin + on the main capacitor.
Bridge rectifier shows 0.531v if left pin - to the right pin + of the same Bridge rectifier
Bridge rectifier shows 0.528v if left pin - to the both midddle pins + of the same Bridge rectifier
both midddle pins - shows 0.533v to the right pin + on the main capacitor
Bridge rectifier shows 0.002v if right pin - to the right pin + on the main capacitor. The same if swap + and -.
Bridge rectifier shows 0.408v if left pin + to the left pin - on the main capacitor.
Bridge...
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The pdf above has a recommended design on page 11, and it matches my board. I marked the 7DIP and nearby transformer....
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I found the 7DIP switch, the 280 one [URL]https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/512037/POWERINT/TNY280PG.html[/URL] Unfoirtunately, it's in a deeply inaccesable place, so to get to it I'll need to desolder middle of the board.
This is the coil that I suspect was there in L11, but I'm not confident. Would it work with MBR3045?
I am not sure which + and - you mean, and which bridge rectifier, which discharging resistors...https://I found the 7DIP switch, the...nfoirtunately,...
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1 and 2 are fine, 3 shows 2.6V and fluctuates to 2.7V.
I have FSP300-62ld with much easier design for donating components. It has standby built on 5H0165R (according to Google). What can I take from it? I have MBR3045CT 0946A, 1K44AC FQPF 5N5OC, GBU606, and something else, not visible without desoldering.
That's exactly what I did and got this
On all diodes with radiators readings are about 0.4xx - 0.5xx and over 1v in one way.
There's no dust or anything wrong. It looks like the psu has worked just for a couple of month...
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Sorry for confusion. My understanding is that shorted is when it's connected against design, while normal connection is according to design.
All voltages in the 24-pin connector have 1.5kOm resistance with the ground and it keeps quickly growing. PSON with ground has resistance starting from 10kOm.
The simptoms are the same - it is dead, doesn't start, no signs of life. To me it was given already dead, but with signs that it has been working. I don't have the removed components, but I have one that probably (hopefully) was the coil from L11. The HS7 is missing completely and...
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You are right. The more I checked the worse it looked. Zener diod ZD5 on the pic is open in both directions in diod check mode, but in resistance check mode it's open only in one direction. 24 pin ATX mb connector is shorted nearly completely. Ground is shorted with nearly everything, 5V is shorted with 3.3V and both with ground. The only thing that is not shorted with them is 12V, but is also shorted with the ground.
[URL=filedata/fetch?filedataid=325725][ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"thumb","data-attachmentid":3205204}[/ATTACH][/URL]...
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